#21  
Old 07-29-2021, 09:08 AM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Originally Posted by mchlmacdonald View Post
Didn't even get to set the dwell. Set point gap to .016" and the car wont start at all now. It's trying to throw spark to the plugs even with the distributor cap off? I have no idea...
OK, just need to take a calm approach. If you set the point gap to .016" at the high point on the dist. lobe, you are close enough to run. Sparks jumping all over the place with the cap off could happen. That's actually good news. That means you have primary and secondary ignition. You have to remember once the points are working properly and the coil, the spark leaves the coil and travels back to the dist. cap center terminal. Then to the rotor and out to the proper plug wire. With the cap off, cranking, it's possible to have sparks jumping all over the place in the cap, especially if the cap, rotor button, and plug wires are marginal. Make sure the rotor button is good and the contact has not gotten damaged or broken off somehow. Make sure the cap isn't damaged. If you have sparks jumping around in the cap, the no start issue has to be the cap, rotor, wires or plugs. Those are the only parts involved. You will get it.

  #22  
Old 07-29-2021, 11:39 PM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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With no changes at all to the car after last nights debacle...

It started up today with absolutely 0 issues. REALLY slow to warm up still, but purrs like a kitten. Reconnected vacuum line to the vacuum advance, adjusted the carburetor back down...running infinitely better.

Still has a single diesel cycle after shutdown though. Found out our dwell meter doesn't work so we can't adjust the dwell on the points without a working meter.

  #23  
Old 07-30-2021, 08:36 AM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Is this a high compression engine, and if so, are you running premium fuel? My 195 was rebuilt by the previous owner. I was looking through the receipts that he provided with the car, and when I looked up the piston that was used with the over-bore, I realized they replaced the dished pistons with flat-tops without realizing that bumped the CR to the 10.25:1 spec. Dieseling is the same thing as pinging (pre-ignition).

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1963 Tempest Convertible (195-1bbl, 3-speed transaxle. 428 RAIV, 5-speed, IRS planned) Pictures
  #24  
Old 07-30-2021, 08:55 AM
tekuhn tekuhn is offline
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Is the cooling system functioning well? It will aggravate your cold stumble, but lowering the thermostat to a 160 might help with the dieseling issue.

I re-read the previous posts and you mentioned at one point it was running well enough to move the car from the yard to the garage. How old is the gas in the tank? Bad, stale gas would definitely cause a stumble and dieseling too.

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Hoping to finish a project while I'm still able to push the clutch in....

1963 Tempest Convertible (195-1bbl, 3-speed transaxle. 428 RAIV, 5-speed, IRS planned) Pictures
  #25  
Old 07-30-2021, 08:58 PM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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No idea if the motor is high compression. According to the previous owner the motor was recently rebuilt, but I have no receipts or build sheet to prove that. The compression in each cylinder was really good when we bought it and it hasn't driven more than 100 miles since then.

The gas is pretty old, and one thing we did do is put lead additive in the tank, because we don't know if the head has hardened valve seats.

Cooling system is functioning pretty well as far as I can tell. Temp at the intake port is 190 after warming up and this is sitting still.

  #26  
Old 08-11-2021, 02:22 AM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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Update #3:

Car has been running and driving better than ever since I received that Vacuum modulator.

Still a slight diesel on shutdown after the car warms up, but it is only for a second or two as compared to the 20+ seconds it used to diesel.

Do not have a dwell meter to check the dwell yet. Car is on 87 octane fuel with a lead additive (unsure if the head has hardened valve seats). Gonna try a higher octane fuel.

Does anyone know the stock PSI of the mechanical fuel pump? Mine has an electric pump with a regulator dropping it to 3PSI.

Also, does anyone know a guy in the SoCal area that can rebuild the Tempest transaxles? Mine could use a rebuild.

  #27  
Old 08-16-2021, 10:39 PM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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Update #4:

Dwell meter shows dwell is right around 75 degrees. Pretty close to what it's supposed to be.

RPM shows it idles right around 980. Any lower and I wouldn't be able to put it in gear at all without stalling the car.

Still dieseling after warm up. Haven't tried a higher octane fuel yet. That seems to be the last option I've got as far as the dieseling issue goes.

  #28  
Old 08-16-2021, 10:49 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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Shut it off in gear,that will help with the lower idle.Tom

  #29  
Old 08-16-2021, 11:37 PM
wbnapier wbnapier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchlmacdonald View Post
Update #3:

Car has been running and driving better than ever since I received that Vacuum modulator.

Still a slight diesel on shutdown after the car warms up, but it is only for a second or two as compared to the 20+ seconds it used to diesel.

Do not have a dwell meter to check the dwell yet. Car is on 87 octane fuel with a lead additive (unsure if the head has hardened valve seats). Gonna try a higher octane fuel.

Does anyone know the stock PSI of the mechanical fuel pump? Mine has an electric pump with a regulator dropping it to 3PSI.

Also, does anyone know a guy in the SoCal area that can rebuild the Tempest transaxles? Mine could use a rebuild.
Call these guys about the transaxle: http://www.oceansidedriveline.com/

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1965 Pontiac GTO
455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power
9.25:1 CR
Stump Puller Cam
Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00
3.55 Rear Differential
Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6"
Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28"
  #30  
Old 08-17-2021, 05:29 PM
389 389 is offline
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Disconnect the vacuum advance and tune it without that. Feel free to add more initial advance.

  #31  
Old 08-17-2021, 07:36 PM
tom s tom s is offline
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Find a Corvair specialty shop for a auto trans rebuild.Tom

  #32  
Old 08-17-2021, 10:33 PM
TransaxleTempest62 TransaxleTempest62 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchlmacdonald View Post
Update #3:


Does anyone know the stock PSI of the mechanical fuel pump? Mine has an electric pump with a regulator dropping it to 3PSI.
Mechanic Keith posted 4-5 psi in another thread about 10 years ago, try adjusting your regulator up and see if it improves.

Did you do a compression check? What was the reading? I think the low comp 195 is around 155lbs and the hi comp is 165lbs.. Do you have the 177 head?

  #33  
Old 08-19-2021, 08:51 PM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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Once the car is warmed up and at idle, if I just barely touch the throttle it wants to die on me. Accelerator pump issue?

Also still barely stays running or stalls when it's put in gear. The vacuum modulator was replaced and I have found no other vacuum leaks.

Pulled a plug, seems to be running a little rich. That is with it regulated at 3psi.

The compression test I did last year, they all measured in the 150s as far as I remember.

I do not know what head is on the motor.

  #34  
Old 08-20-2021, 01:49 AM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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Figured out the dieseling issue (hopefully). Plugs are way too hot of a heat range. Ground strap color change is past the bend. Grabbing different plugs in the AM and hopefully that issue is gone.

Definitely too rich as well. Soot ring on the base is very heavy and the plugs are wet. Can I pick up a universal jet kit / would those jets work in a Rochester single barrel carb?


Last edited by mchlmacdonald; 08-20-2021 at 02:15 AM.
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  #35  
Old 09-11-2021, 02:24 PM
mchlmacdonald mchlmacdonald is offline
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Update #5:

Purring like a kitten and dieseling is gone with a change in the plugs.

Driving it daily.

Thanks for everyone's help.

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