[jimib]

I’m trying to mount the ignition switch from the American Autowire Update Series kit and the chrome bezel nut from Ames does not thread. I happen to have 3 bezel nuts (don’t know I ended up with 3), 2 look identical and all three will not thread into the switch. I called American Autowire but they are unable to help. What can I do?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Did you try it with the lock & tumbler removed?

Clay

[jimib]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Did you try it with the lock & tumbler removed?

Clay

No sir I did not. How could or would this make any difference?

[tempest1964]

Do you have the old ignition switch? If so, you can hold them up next to each other and see if the threads from one will mesh with the other. This will tell you if the thread pitch is the same. Do you have dial calipers? If so, check the OD of one vs the other. If the pitch is the same and the OD is the same, it’s possible the new ignition switch has threads that weren’t cut quite right. Does American not supply the nut for the switch?

[PontiacJim1959]

I don't know if this applies, but on my '68 ignition switch I had to pry off that nice stainless cover that the key goes through and makes the end of the switch more attractive. The bezel nut would not come off with that cover in place as it is just a hair wider OD than the bezel ID.

I don't know the "correct" way to pry the cover off, but I had to mangle it a bit to get it off. It'll flatten out ok, and should fit back on once I get the bezel nut back onto the switch first.

So that may be your issue, but checking your dimensions as has been mentioned would be a means to confirm the threads on the switch and the threads on the bezel nut.

[Scott Thelander]

key in
turn to accesorie
push pin insert into hole
turnleft and jiggle
the guts pop out

and

it looks like you have a repro switch as stated above...

and there is a plug all your wires clip into
then
it clips on the switch.

[jimib]

Tempest1964:
Regrettably, I don’t have the original switch. No calipers either but I could buy a pair. I called American Autowire and explained my issue which they could not resolve. This is disappointing because their kit is supposedly a compatible upgrade replacement for $629.00.

PontiacJim1959:
The chrome bezel from Ames is indeed attractive and matches the rest of the bezels such as wiper and radio. You had to pry it off? Maybe it was the original bezel and switch and over the years the two parts fused together. But my two parts (bezel and ignition) are new but from two separate companies. American Autowire states their kit is compatible and it is with my car but this ignition detail is not compatible.

Scott Thelander
I think you’re explaining how to take the tumbler out of the barrel which QUICK-SILVER suggested above. I’ll try this when I have time (2 days) but I don’t think this will make a difference.

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by jimib

Tempest1964:
Regrettably, I don’t have the original switch. No calipers either but I could buy a pair. I called American Autowire and explained my issue which they could not resolve. This is disappointing because their kit is supposedly a compatible upgrade replacement for $629.00.

PontiacJim1959:
The chrome bezel from Ames is indeed attractive and matches the rest of the bezels such as wiper and radio. You had to pry it off? Maybe it was the original bezel and switch and over the years the two parts fused together. But my two parts (bezel and ignition) are new but from two separate companies. American Autowire states their kit is compatible and it is with my car but this ignition detail is not compatible.

Scott Thelander
I think you’re explaining how to take the tumbler out of the barrel which QUICK-SILVER suggested above. I’ll try this when I have time (2 days) but I don’t think this will make a difference.

No, not the bezel, the stainless cover that goes over the tumbler to make the unit more attractive and the key goes through it. I enclosed a photo of it and you can see it in the photo. It is just a "cap" or "cover" and on my ignition switch I had to remove it as I could not get the bezel ring over it enough to screw the ring onto the threads on the switch - it hangs over as you can see how it wraps around the top of the ignition switch and is held into place causing it to be slightly larger in diameter than the ID of the chrome bezel so the bezel will not screw on. Got the chrome bezel ring installed and then put the "cover" back on the end of the ignition switch.

[Scott Thelander]

as Pontiac Jim mentioned the hole in the ring nut is smaller than the diameter of the stainless cover
thats why the tumbler needs to come out,,,
I have never had luck with those repros staying tight in the dash ... they have way to many threads and no locking cogs and they like to turn in the dash
the cogs make it stationary in the dash and not spin....
are you a 6 wire plug or the 7 wire ? I think 67's may have had either depending on options.. like ac ?
1116679 is one of em for 67 ...got that one mezmorized ,,,. step up and buy the correct NOS or someones nice used GM one....
but
they are easy enuf to swap back out later after you get the wiring and ignition installed.... if you get that one to work for now

Scott t

edit .... I got beat by Jim on replying ....

[Goatracer1]

You have to remove the key lock on any of the ignition switches to remove the nut. It there by stands to reason to get the nut back on the cylinder must be removed. This was to keep someone from dropping the switch out of the dash and jumping the terminals or substituting their own switch. Put the key in and insert a small piece of wire (paper clip) in the little round hole and turn the key until the lock pops out. I forget if it's left or right. Try either until it works.

[jimib]

OK, that makes sense now. I'll remove the tumbler and try to screw in the bezel.

Scott Thelander; the ignition switch I have came with the American Autowire wiring kit; it has 4 wires and 5 blades.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Scott Thelander

I have never had luck with those repros staying tight in the dash ... they have way to many threads and no locking cogs and they like to turn in the dash
the cogs make it stationary in the dash and not spin....

I've used conduit to make adapter sleeves for these long barreled switches.
Notch the back to fit the switch and leave a tab up front to fit the dash.

Clay

[jimib]

Bummer here my friends.

I got the tumbler out of the cylinder (30-minute struggle) regrettably, the chrome metal bezel still will not screw on to the ignition switch. It will catch the first few threads, then stops.

1st and 2nd pic, tumbler removed, 3rd and 4th pic, bezel screwed on for the first few threads then stops, 5th pic; I reversed the bezel then screwed in to see what happen, but again it just stops after catching a few threads.

I'm considering buying another ignition switch, but this could be throwing money at this problem and hoping for the best.

[Scott65]

A thread pitch gauge would help you with at least figuring out the mystery here. If the pitch is different its never gonna work. It may also help you know what you need in a new/different switch.

[Scott Thelander]

cheap universal made in mexico repoop
they often come with there own bezels and a pos tin rear spin on nut that never stays snug against the back of the dash correctly

[Shiny]

Is it possible the bezel is just cross-threaded? Your photo doesn't make it clear but appears to be a possibility:



If so, I'm not sure how to correct it, but might be worth a close look at the first couple threads on the switch before you give up.

[jimib]

Originally Posted by Shiny

Is it possible the bezel is just cross-threaded? Your photo doesn't make it clear but appears to be a possibility:



If so, I'm not sure how to correct it, but might be worth a close look at the first couple threads on the switch before you give up.

Yes, certainly possible, but I have 3 bezels on hand (post #1) and none of them work.
I think I should buy an ignition from Ames, it should be able to work with the American Autowire kit.

[tempest1964]

jimib, do you have any lapping compound. You can lightly dress the threads with a bit of compound and then run the nut in and out. It is a bit tedious but I have done it before when mating threads are close but not quite. If you do this, alternate which side of the nut you feed in to even out the wear. Good luck.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by jimib

Yes, certainly possible, but I have 3 bezels on hand (post #1) and none of them work.
I think I should buy an ignition from Ames, it should be able to work with the American Autowire kit.

Agree with you the 3 bezels points to the switch but doesn't eliminate the possibility of damaged threads as opposed to being machined incorrectly.

Since you are prepared to buy a new switch, could you try a Dremel or fine file to chamfer the end and grind off the first couple threads? I'm sure I'm not the only one that salvaged bolts this way after I cross-threaded or damaged them.

[Lee]

Did you happen to try to install the bezal backwards? I recently had one that was not fully threaded, it would go one way, but not the other. I ended up taking measurements, then ordering a tap.

This was in a 67 LeMans, with the aftermarket switch. The cheap flimsy sheetmetal "nut" did not secure the switch, so it kept rotating.

Also, the new switch had the retainer ring for the electrical connector in the wrong place. A thick zip-tie worked to take up the slack.

Let me see if I can find some pictures