[67droptop]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

Have no clue as to why the rebuilder cuts down the vane diameter...perhaps it's a vane design from some other application?

George

For me it makes no difference now. I'm stuck with the Edelbrock pump because of the mounting spacers for my March Drive System. My divider plate has some areas that are rusted thin so for practice I went ahead and adjusted the gap to .050 with new gasket. If you take your time it's very easy and looks untouched. So I'm off to the parts store to order a new divider plate!

[GT182]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

Have no clue as to why the rebuilder cuts down the vane diameter...perhaps it's a vane design from some other application?

George

My thought too George. I cannot understand they're way of thinking this stuff works. Have they ever tested what they sell? I know some after market divider plates that were never tested.

[67droptop]

So I go to the parts store (Advance Auto) to purchase a new divider plate. The young man behind the counter ask what vehicle and I stated Pontiac Bonneville and he ask is that a Chevy? LOL Well anyhow their books/computer didn't even list the part!

[rexs73gto]

If you need a divider plate I have 5 brand new GM plates for sale. The price for them are $ 20.00 plus the shipping. These are NOS GM plate not aftermarket plates. These are the 11 bolt plates .

[67droptop]

I see there are many different thoughts on what temperature thermostat to use. I have a 165 now....is this good....what say you? Engine is a mild 535..Rodney Red Radiator with dual fans and automatic trannsmission!

Thanks, Paul

[GT182]

Paul, you're better off with a 180.

[Old Goat 67]

So is your engine.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 67droptop

I see there are many different thoughts on what temperature thermostat to use. I have a 165 now....is this good....what say you? Engine is a mild 535..Rodney Red Radiator with dual fans and automatic trannsmission!

Thanks, Paul

I vote 180°F also. It may be that you need a 160°F rated thermostat to achieve that. What I mean is that some thermostats lie! Check a new thermostat in a pot of water using a candy thermometer to verify where it begins to open and where it finally fully opens. I have seen 160°F thermostats begin as late as 170°F and not fully open until 185°F......You just never know unless you verify! This also applies to temperature sensors and gauges.

[67droptop]

Originally Posted by GT182

Paul, you're better off with a 180.

Ok and thanks!

[67droptop]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

So is your engine.

Charles, if I can get the engine temperature down......my temperature will come down also! LOL

[Old Goat 67]

Yep, Been there, Done that.

Can't tell ya what a joy it is to run down the road and not constantly look at the temp gauge.

[67droptop]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Yep, Been there, Done that.

Can't tell ya what a joy it is to run down the road and not constantly look at the temp gauge.

Charles, Im hoping for the same results!

[GT182]

Using a thermostat lower than 180 is no help in solving overheating problems. You have to find the cause whether it's timing, vacuum advance, plugged radiator or engine, or waterpump issues. Not easy and not fun, but necessary to solve. From what I understand there is an optimal temperature the engine needs to run at, and IMO 160°s is too low.

And... even ethanol is a part of the equation to overheating. I found that out when I mixed 5 gallons of 100 octane Low Lead aviation gas to 1/8 of a tank of gas with E10. I was amazed at how much cooler my engine ran, especially sitting for over 5 minutes at some of these long winded red lights we have around here. Maybe it's the higher octane that did it, but I'm not sure. I've been running 87oct E10 with my low compression engine and have had no issues with ping, spark knock, or run on when I shut it off.

[Old Goat 67]

I have finally found and purchased CORRECT Water Pump for 1963-1967 P8/T8 cars. Group # 1.069, Part # 9788609.
My 67 GTO will get it eventually, but first it has to be documented here and elsewhere. I have been looking high and low for at least 10 years.

Started new thread, so as not to get lost here.

http://www.forums.maxperformanceinc....d.php?t=752911

[Stuckinda60s]

Originally Posted by GT182

Using a thermostat lower than 180 is no help in solving overheating problems. You have to find the cause whether it's timing, vacuum advance, plugged radiator or engine, or waterpump issues. Not easy and not fun, but necessary to solve. From what I understand there is an optimal temperature the engine needs to run at, and IMO 160°s is too low.

And... even ethanol is a part of the equation to overheating. I found that out when I mixed 5 gallons of 100 octane Low Lead aviation gas to 1/8 of a tank of gas with E10. I was amazed at how much cooler my engine ran, especially sitting for over 5 minutes at some of these long winded red lights we have around here. Maybe it's the higher octane that did it, but I'm not sure. I've been running 87oct E10 with my low compression engine and have had no issues with ping, spark knock, or run on when I shut it off.

Pure Av-gas has issues when run on the street. It's designed to vaporize at the low temperatures it may operate at. This causes issues with vapor lock and boil-over when operated at high ambient temperatures. It can also cause the engine to operate leaner as the temperature goes up. It's no fun, on a real hot day, to run into one of these problems. It also can require re-jetting and/or float resetting, even when operating at relatively low temperatures. I don't know how much that mixing it will change its characteristics, but I do know that you would need to have the same mixture of the same ingredients every time to have consistent results. That isn't possible on the street.

Because you're already experiencing lower operating temperatures, you're already operating close to where the boil-over/vapor lock problems will occur. The reason why you're seeing lower engine temps is because of "refrigeration effect". The fuel is flashing and removing heat when it does. This shows that operating at higher temps will probably be problematic.

Guys who've run it at the strip have experienced the jetting issues.

As far as the best operating temperature? I imagine it's in the range of 200-210, because that seems to be where most modern engines operate. The most efficiency would come from the highest safe operating temperature with the lowest, to a point, air intake temperature. Hence, the engine air intakes removed from the hot ambient air around the engine.

Every bit of heat removed from an engine comes from fuel. Even that of friction comes from the fuel being used to drive it. Keep the heat in the engine and you raise its efficiency.

[TedRamAirII]

OK, Got my old pump off, Stamped Impeller!!! Now maybe we are gettin' somewhere, Let me introduce you to the trash can. I've got a water pump I've had laying around for 20 years, cast impeller. 2 Plate, 8 bolt pump. When I take the 2 plates and lay them on the pump, maybe 1/8" clearance. So I know that needs to be addressed. My question is should I try to raise the impeller to match the plate? My plate looks pretty flat, not much contour to match the impeller. If I push the center of the plate down, its only going to decrease the clearance at the top of the vanes, it wont affect the complete vane. So would it be best to raise the impeller as close as possibe? Also, theres not much space between the 2 plates, is that enough to flow what I need? seems like its only 1/4". thanks for everyones help, I got to get this thing coolin". ; )

[Old Goat 67]

Could we see a picture of the plates sitting on the pump and the curvature of the blades like I did in my posts? (3 entry's up)
Also, what shape are the bearings and seals in that pump?

I have successfully pulled an impeller using a steering wheel puller, but it needs to have 3 holes in the impeller that can be threaded. 1/8" isn't that bad BTW.
The whole trick is that the impeller blades have a chamber to run in that minimizes the turbulence and lessens the cavitation induced.

Don't throw the old pump away if it is till good, I know where you can procure the correct impeller for about $15. Where are you located?

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Could we see a picture of the plates sitting on the pump and the curvature of the blades like I did in my posts? Also, what shape are the bearings and seals in that pump?

I have successfully pulled an impeller using a steering wheel puller, but it needs to have 3 holes in the impeller that can be threaded. 1/8" isn't that bad BTW.

Don't throw the old pump away it it is till good, I know where you can procure the correct impeller for about $15. Where are you located?

I'm In Ocala, Florida, middle of the state, 75 miles due west of Daytona if that gives you an idea. I would rather just buy the correct impeller and press it on enough to barely miss the plate. Seems like the impeller is somewhat curved down the last 1/2", not much but maybe .030" maybe I'm just to critical. Let me see if I can get some pics, I'm no computer jockey ; )

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Could we see a picture of the plates sitting on the pump and the curvature of the blades like I did in my posts? (3 entry's up)
Also, what shape are the bearings and seals in that pump?

I have successfully pulled an impeller using a steering wheel puller, but it needs to have 3 holes in the impeller that can be threaded. 1/8" isn't that bad BTW.
The whole trick is that the impeller blades have a chamber to run in that minimizes the turbulence and lessens the cavitation induced.

Don't throw the old pump away if it is till good, I know where you can procure the correct impeller for about $15. Where are you located?

try this? It took me forever to figure this out!

[Old Goat 67]

You're better off with what you have than the stamped impeller, but you still won't have maximum effectiveness with what you have there.
Take a good look at the difference between what you have and the NOS pump I just recently obtained, posted below together.
Because of the way your impeller has been cut down, you won't have as much water flow through the pump as with a PROPER impeller with proper plates.

Try calling this guy and see if you can procure a good impeller. He really knows his stuff.

http://www.fdrbp.com/

Third picture is what he puts on his Pontiac rebuilds. I believe his cost to rebuild one is about $90.

Charles