[gto19]

Hey guys

I’m wondering what’s going on here . I’m doing a cam swap on my 400 and when I get to top dead center at the number 1 piston my rotor is pointing to the number 2 piston. I thought it should be pointed to the number 1 piston . I haven’t even removed the old cam yet . Car ran totally fine when I parked it yesterday.
Bear with me I’m no hard core mechanic. This is just a hobby for fun hobby for me .

The motor was rebuilt last year .the original damper was sent out to the damper doctor also . I’m just putting in 068 cam . Replacing the xe268 cam

[Tom Vaught]

If you have ever hunted Rabbits, Quail, or Pheasants you know you need to lead the target.

The rotor is pointed at a spot between #2 on the distributor cap and #1 for a reason.
To get the spark in the general area of the Terminal from Idle to WOT with the Centrifugal and Vacuum advance.

If you put it exactly on #1 you will be off a tooth on the gear.

Tom V.

[Formulajones]

You can make the rotor point anywhere you want at TDC, as long as you run the wires accordingly, it really makes no difference. But the idea is to have it in such a way that the plug wires aren't a tangled mess at the cap.

[gto19]

Thanks guys
I’m just a little confused. My plug wires are ran just like this picture out of my service manual. And my original distributor and vacuum advance is set in just Like the picture

I guess what I’m trying to get at . I read I should now mark the distributor with a felt pin at the block so I drop it in correctly when I’m done with the cam swap

[Kenth]

On your pic it looks like the rotor tip pointing in the correct direction.

[gto19]

Originally Posted by Kenth

On your pic it looks like the rotor tip pointing in the correct direction.

Awesome thanks. I like how they say plug your finger over the spark plug hole and let it get blown out . I didn’t use my finger but I used tissue paper and watched it blow out .

I’ll now mark my distributor and pull it out . I’m sure I’ll have some more questions this week .

[Gary H]

Rotate your engine until the intake valve for the number one cylinder opens and then closes all the way. Continue rotating until the timing mark is at 12 degrees before top dead center. Install the distributor in the engine with the rotor pointing toward the number 1 spark plug wire terminal on the distributor cap, not toward the number one piston. Make sure you install the wires in a 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 order, counter clockwise rotation. The engine should fire off immediately if everything else is done properly.

[gto19]

Originally Posted by Gary H

Rotate your engine until the intake valve for the number one cylinder opens and then closes all the way. Continue rotating until the timing mark is at 12 degrees before top dead center. Install the distributor in the engine with the rotor pointing toward the number 1 spark plug wire terminal on the distributor cap, not toward the number one piston. Make sure you install the wires in a 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 order, counter clockwise rotation. The engine should fire off immediately if everything else is done properly.

Hi Gary

Your a lot more advanced mechanically then I am . I don’t have a -12 mark in my timing chain cover . I also don’t know what rocker is the exhaust and intake . I’ll definitely have the cam out today though .

[tom s]

If all else fails,pull all spark plugs,put a small cork in #1(first on drivers side)turn over till the cork shoots across the garage.That will get you close enough to TDC.Tom

[steve25]

Gary H has discribed the exact way the factory does it!!

They did not have the luxury of time on the assembly line to get a motor fired over so they could run checks on it.
Doing it Gary’s way guarantees the motor will start if the started can spin it and it has fuel.

[gto19]

Can I use my big daddy Milwaukee impact to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt ?

[Tom Vaught]

I suppose you can do anything BUT I personally would not like to damage the Bolt Thread or the key/keyway on the crankshaft by using a impact gun. A Long Cheater and a 1/2" bar, proper socket have always removed the bolt without damage.

Tom V

[gto19]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I suppose you can do anything BUT I personally would not like to damage the Bolt Thread or the key/keyway on the crankshaft by using a impact gun. A Long Cheater and a 1/2" bar, proper socket have always removed the bolt without damage.

Tom V

Interesting I thought a impact would be safe . It’s a manual transmission car so doing it your way how do you hold the flywheel?

[sdbob]

I learned a lesson. Helping transplant a Pontiac 350. I put distributor in as I watched the valve close,only thing it was the exhaust valve! I was tired and in a hurry. Funny how mistakes make you wiser. If I can remember them.

[gto19]

What’s the trick to sliding the small timming gear off the crankshaft? The big gear on the cam slides easy but the small gear isn’t moving . Trying to remove the timing gear set

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by gto19

What’s the trick to sliding the small timming gear off the crankshaft? The big gear on the cam slides easy but the small gear isn’t moving . Trying to remove the timing gear set

I use two lady foot pry bars on the bottom gear. Regular claw hammer will work if its not too tight.

I would go ahead and put the old cam in time on #1 cylinder before you pull the gears off. That's one crank turn from where you're at. Pontiac is dots together instead of dots up.

Do note the nose of the cam sticks all the way through the cam gear. That little bit sticking through is what the fuel pump eccentric fits on.

When you get ready to tighten the crank bolt... crawl under the car and take a shift rod loose so you can put the transmission in first and reverse at the same time. Then the crank can't turn as long as the clutch holds.

Clay

[gto19]

Darn to late . I got the timing gear off . I noticed that with the dots . Can’t I just put the timing gear back exactly how it came out and reinstall the distributor the exact way it came out ? I marked it with a pin and took a picture

How do I pull the cam out now ?

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by gto19

How do I pull the cam out now ?

Find the longest bolt you can, (6+ inches) that has the same thread size and pitch as the bolt that holds the cam gear on. Run that bolt into the front of the cam, use it as a handle to pull the cam out.

BE CAREFUL that you don't nick the cam bearing(s) with the lobes or the cam journals. Don't lose the cam thrust plate, or it's bolts, either.

[johnta1]

Pontiac is dots together instead of dots up.

Actually dots up is #1 on Pontiacs.
I usually use the together way because it's easier to make sure the dots align.

With the dots together the crank/cam is on #6 firing order.
Dots up is #1 firing.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Find the longest bolt you can, (6+ inches) that has the same thread size and pitch as the bolt that holds the cam gear on. Run that bolt into the front of the cam, use it as a handle to pull the cam out.

BE CAREFUL that you don't nick the cam bearing(s) with the lobes or the cam journals. Don't lose the cam thrust plate, or it's bolts, either.

Very good advice by several here.

Obviously you have already removed the intake, valley pan and the the lifters and pushrods.

When you are ready to remove that camshaft with your 6 inch long bolt threaded into the end of the camshaft, I personally have always used a coat hanger (stretched out) with the coat rack loop inserted under the back of the camshaft.

This seems to help with not damaging the camshaft bearings as you slide the camshaft forward slowly.

Depending on the chassis you are removing the cam from you might have to remove more than the radiator to get the cam all the way out. I always had to remove the bolts to the 64 GTO hood release (on the radiator support not the hood) to get the camshaft completely out of the engine.

Tom V.