[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

I think the picture in the middle are the missing pieces from my Carmry's rear crossmember

I agree about the Kroil being no better than PB

You have an incredible eye!! All 3 of those pics are from a CAMRY I had in the shop last week. Damn. 50 ft of new brake line and it was back on the road.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

You have an incredible eye!! All 3 of those pics are from a CAMRY I had in the shop last week. Damn. 50 ft of new brake line and it was back on the road.

I knew it was a Toyota, looks much like my Vibe underneath which is a cousin of the Corolla. Paul K you're eyes must have seen a lot of undercarriages to discern that....LOL

[ta man]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Once the fastener is rounded off beyond recognition or broken off, the project gets much tougher. Good luck to everyone dealing with this kind of stuff.

Dad..can you give me a hand with this bolt?????

[gto19]

That bolt buster looks pretty cool to have

[tjs72lemans]

If you resort to drilling it out, as said make sure your on center. The best way to start that is with a center drill. Then start with a small drill bit and work your way up. If off a bit when you get close to breaking or breaking through to thread sidewall, start to pick or pry out the remaining threads from the remaining bolt. Then chase the threads clean with a tap.

[FHummel]

Another "trick" to try, that has worked for me is, as suggested heat up the manifold by running the car, then apply some candle wax to the head and the immediate surrounding area. The candle wax will leach into the area under the head of the bolt and down the threads providing a lubricant. Again, it may or may not work. In addition to the heating, after this, moderately tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer which will jar the bolt/threads and facilitate the wax seeping in. Worth a try, and it does work when penetrating oil doesn't.

Good luck,
An old mechanic - FHummel

[steve25]

The product called PB blaster has near always worked for me, if it does not then neither will candle wax!

[61-63]

I wouldn't attempt to get those bolts out without pulling the head and setting it on my mill table; then drilling or possibly plunge milling them out and retapping/rethreading the hole(s).
As is said above sometimes you can heat the bolts cherry red, let them cool, and then back them out - but IMO those bullies are past that point. As mgarblik said the missing piece of boss on the head can be built back up with silicon bronze weldment.

[455Grandville]

I’ve had great luck with socket bolt extractors even on old CAT engine manifolds.

[Pecosbill]

EXACTLY what Sirrotica Brad said x10. Heat those suckers up until they glow red then quickly get a ratchet and six point socket on them and turn. Do NOT tap on them with a hammer or you run a very real risk of a broken manifold, even with gentle taps (ask me how I know this!). Do not use a 12 point socket or your chances of ruining the bolt head go up significantly. Do not let the bolts cool appreciably before trying to turn them. There is no need to cut the pipes, remove the manifolds or remove the heads. All the garages and muffler shops back in the 60’s and 70’s did it this way. I have witnessed it done many, many times. You cannot, btw, get it hot enough with one of those little torches on a gas bottle. It needs the big acetylene unit.

A story that no one may be interested in except me: Back in 1970 I was switching from a single exhaust to a used set of dual exhausts taken from a donor GTO and needed to have the manifold bolts taken out. I crawled under the car with a wrench and saw how futile that was going to be. I drove the car to my Dad’s mechanic and asked him to loosen the bolts for me. He heated them up and turned them a good bit to the point where the exhaust was leaking around the pipes. I drove the car home and crawled back underneath it. Those bolts were still very difficult to turn after they had cooled down to mere engine temp, but I was lucky enough that they did turn without stripping the bolt heads. (That’s why the suggestion to drive the car to heat up the manifold won’t work: you’ve got to heat up the bolts more than you heat the manifold.). I put the exhaust pipes on the car with the mufflers still attached to them btw. That was a real trick, but when you’re broke and young (19) you find ways to do things. I was laying on my back and had the pipe laying atop my body with a foot under it near the muffler. Placed the pipe on the manifold and began threading the bolts while arching my back and pushing the bottom half of the pipe up with my foot. Got them both on there like that and then the tailpipes were a comparative breeze as they had both come off of the mufflers without a hitch. Car’s power was noticeably increased with the duals and mpg went from 17 to 19! Car was. 64 Lemans with a 326.

When you reassemble, install stainless studs and snug them up with bronze nuts and then you will never again have to worry about getting bolts to turn in the rusted manifold threads. I did this years ago and have never regretted it. Ames part number N180BF. Why the factory didn’t go to this setup back in the 60’s is unfathomable.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Pecosbill

EXACTLY what Sirrotica Brad said x10. Heat those suckers up until they glow red then quickly get a ratchet and six point socket on them and turn. Do NOT tap on them with a hammer or you run a very real risk of a broken manifold, even with gentle taps (ask me how I know this!). Do not use a 12 point socket or your chances of ruining the bolt head go up significantly. Do not let the bolts cool appreciably before trying to turn them. There is no need to cut the pipes, remove the manifolds or remove the heads. All the garages and muffler shops back in the 60’s and 70’s did it this way. I have witnessed it done many, many times. You cannot, btw, get it hot enough with one of those little torches on a gas bottle. It needs the big acetylene unit.

A story that no one may be interested in except me: Back in 1970 I was switching from a single exhaust to a used set of dual exhausts taken from a donor GTO and needed to have the manifold bolts taken out. I crawled under the car with a wrench and saw how futile that was going to be. I drove the car to my Dad’s mechanic and asked him to loosen the bolts for me. He heated them up and turned them a good bit to the point where the exhaust was leaking around the pipes. I drove the car home and crawled back underneath it. Those bolts were still very difficult to turn after they had cooled down to mere engine temp, but I was lucky enough that they did turn without stripping the bolt heads. (That’s why the suggestion to drive the car to heat up the manifold won’t work: you’ve got to heat up the bolts more than you heat the manifold.). I put the exhaust pipes on the car with the mufflers still attached to them btw. That was a real trick, but when you’re broke and young (19) you find ways to do things. I was laying on my back and had the pipe laying atop my body with a foot under it near the muffler. Placed the pipe on the manifold and began threading the bolts while arching my back and pushing the bottom half of the pipe up with my foot. Got them both on there like that and then the tailpipes were a comparative breeze as they had both come off of the mufflers without a hitch. Car’s power was noticeably increased with the duals and mpg went from 17 to 19! Car was. 64 Lemans with a 326.

When you reassemble, install stainless studs and snug them up with bronze nuts and then you will never again have to worry about getting bolts to turn in the rusted manifold threads. I did this years ago and have never regretted it. Ames part number N180BF. Why the factory didn’t go to this setup back in the 60’s is unfathomable.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, and backing up what I said Bill.

If you ever worked someplace where your take home pay depended upon how quickly you can get a job out the door, without comebacks. You find the most efficient ways to complete a job timely, at the least possible expense.

Having followed my father in the same profession, I had a lot of years of experience that I was able to draw on, even when I was just beginning a career as a mechanic. I watched, and listened to the old timers to make me faster, and able to turn out quality work. Whenever there was a school, or a seminar, I wanted to go to every one I could.

I'm going to be 69 in exactly a week, so I think I now qualify as an old timer, and I'd like to pass some of the processes that made me successful at my craft to others. I'm always willing to share what I learned in the school of hard knocks, plus what was passed on to me by the senior craftsmen I worked with over the years.

[Rocky Rotella]

I've seen some pretty corroded bolts removed using this tool.

https://boltbusterinc.com/kit/

There are a number of similar examples on the market. Does anyone else have experience using inductive heat?

[grandam1979]

As said cherry the manifold and you have a very good chance of getting them out heat is your best friend just be careful what you aim it at.