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#21
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Update
Sorry it’s a 66 bracket
Here’s what a stud type 4bbl should look like |
The Following User Says Thank You to Scott Thelander For This Useful Post: | ||
#22
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Just got home.
Greg will check tub of throttle brackets & cables in the morning.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 'ol Pinion head For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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Thanks guys. I appreciate it.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#24
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As does my original.
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express |
#25
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So the 68 4bbl does not use a stud, or does?
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
#26
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The '68 does not use the stud. If you look closely at Ed's first pic above, the lower leg is a bit longer so that it extends down to the manifold. The one I was trying to use is floating about a quarter inch above the bolt hole.
I had no idea there was so much to know about throttle cable brackets but I can understand why they changed it. With the '68 style if you want to remove the bracket you have to remove one of the manifold bolts. With the stud, it stays in place just like the alternator bracket that allows you to remove it without disturbing the t-stat housing bolt.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 09-15-2022 at 11:35 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
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I'm eating so much crow nowadays, I swear I'm developing a taste for it.
I have a carport ornament level '66 GTO that I haven't started in years. I have a 389 and tri-power intake slated for....one of these days....and wayyyy back in the recesses of my mind it dawned on me that the present engine in the '66 is a '71 YS 4bbl. You guessed it. It has a T 4 bracket with the long leg which is corrrect for my '68. As a BONUS....it was being held down with a '69 and later bolt/stud arrangement. Problem solved. Thanks for all the help guys...It was educational for sure!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#28
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so glad you fingered it out ....
how does the cable fit ,,, the one in the picture looks a geetar string ,,,, |
#29
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The cable on the 66, that's the one pictured, is definitely tight and shorter than the one on my 68. Not sure what's going on there. Maybe the difference between the q-jet throttle arm and the AFB.
As for the T4 bracket it lines up well with the 68 cable so the bracket was the problem all along.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#30
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Actually quite a helpful thread Greg.
One of my 68 verts started out as a 350 2bbl and was updated with a 4bbl manifold and carb. I too had erratic high idle and routinely found myself kicking the throttle with clutch in or in neutral to try to bring idle speed down. Never bad enough to make me do something about it other than adding a return spring. I always thought that perhaps the 2bbl throttle cable was a different length (IDK maybe it is?) than the 4 bbl and 1 day I’d change it. Your post made me think doh I can compare the bracket to the 350HO 4bbl bracket. I willing to bet that’s the problem. Would never have thought of that. Thanks
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
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#31
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Your description sounds exactly like the same problem I had. Not quite bad enough to demand your attention but bad enough to notice. I even added a second spring like you did but it never was quite right.
Seems that it's never too late to learn something new about these cars. Were it not for this forum I may never have figured it out!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#32
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Great thread, shines light on some historical confusion!
I put a 71 4-bbl intake on my original 70 350 2bbl. The Buick quadrajet I installed was switched to Pontiac throttle hardware. I then discovered the throttle cable lengths were different between 2 bbl and 4 bbl applications. As I recall, I bought a 4-bbl cable from Scott. At the time, I knew there were 2 different brackets - 2bbl and 4bbl and I will have to confirm, but I remember buying a "T4" bracket. What stumped me was the mounting of the bracket to the manifold. I remember ending up either "shaving" the manifold or shimming with washers to make things work. Thanks to this thread, I will revisit as I suspect the stud vs bolt thing was the source of the baffling misfit. Onward... and thanks to all for the great info. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Shiny For This Useful Post: | ||
#33
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Its those little things that so often drive you nuts. Glad to see it resolved.
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Ed 1968 GTO (Thanks Mom) 2006 Silverado 2007 Cadillac SRX 2015 Chevy Express |
The Following User Says Thank You to OG68 For This Useful Post: | ||
#34
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Everything is as it should be now...actually, for the first time since I've owned the car I'm able to set the idle properly with the idle screw on the throttle plate. I always blamed it on the various carbs I had in place. Finally took a good core and did a 'Cliff' build and thought that maybe the throttle shaft bushings were too tight....that's when I noticed that the throttle cable was as tight as a drum anytime I forced the idle lower using my thumb on the throttle shaft arm. As soon as I released the throttle cable tension by removing the clamp, the problem became clear.
Yeah, I think I need to break the camera out.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#35
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By the way, the different length throttle cables I mentioned both work fine with the T4 bracket. The longer one was on my car when I bought it but in the end I used the shorter one. I pulled it off something in a junkyard years ago. I can't remember for sure but it may have been a '67 LeMans I got some stuff off of.
It was in better shape than the other even though it's missing it's inner sleeve at the carb end.. I can live with that. In fact, it's better to have it all missing than part like the other one. That's a hang-up hazard. I found that out by tampering with the inner sleeve on the pedal end. Hung the throttle up wide open every time. Remember, the swaged, or crimped?, ends move with the cable, the inner sleeve is stationary with the outer sleeve and the bell shaped edge of that swaged end will catch the edge of the inner sleeve and lock there. If it's on the carb end it will prevent throttle up...if it's on the pedal end, it will prevent throttle down...Don't need that.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 09-17-2022 at 12:51 PM. |
#36
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Quote:
Thanks again.
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
#37
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Excellent, glad it helped.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#38
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Great thread! I have a '68 that had a 350/2bbl and now has a 455/Q-jet on a Performer RPM.
My throttle cable happens to be too long; I'm not able to get full throttle by using the pedal. Will post a few pics shortly, but it might be the carb throttle linkage arm. The carb was done by Cliff and I don't recall if it was a Pontiac version.
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#39
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Looking at my notes, the Quadrajet is from a 1976 Olds, #17056256.
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Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage/classic car and truck builds and shenanigans! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jq61KxKp1Is&t=14s |
#40
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I can't tell from that pic which bracket you have there. Considering your cable has slack, maybe the two barrel bracket would tighten it up.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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