#21  
Old 11-12-2022, 01:25 PM
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65madgoat 65madgoat is offline
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Curious on guys using the Best Graphite seal what your crank is - serrated or smooth? Well wondering on all using BOP seal too. It is my understanding the Best seal works best on a smooth crank not serrated one. And BOP seal is better for serrated. Or maybe vice versa. But experts chime in please.

  #22  
Old 11-12-2022, 01:43 PM
mgarblik mgarblik is offline
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Originally Posted by 65madgoat View Post
Curious on guys using the Best Graphite seal what your crank is - serrated or smooth? Well wondering on all using BOP seal too. It is my understanding the Best seal works best on a smooth crank not serrated one. And BOP seal is better for serrated. Or maybe vice versa. But experts chime in please.
BOP recommends polishing the serrations on a stock crankshaft. The serrations were originally machined to allow a tiny bit of oil to get to the rope seal to lubricate it. Don't know what the Best Graphite seal wants. Graphite has some natural lubrication qualities so I would think it wouldn't really matter.

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Old 11-12-2022, 05:43 PM
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Verdoro 68 Verdoro 68 is offline
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Here’s what I’ve determined in my saga to seal up my engine. Someone can correct me if I’ve got it wrong:

You can use be Best seal with serrated stock cranks and aftermarket cranks. It’s generally less finicky and more forgiving than the BOP if something is off. In either case, the serrations need to be checked. Aftermarket cranks are more likely to need to be smoothed. You should use a BOP with a smooth crank.

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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #24  
Old 11-14-2022, 05:49 PM
rohrt rohrt is offline
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On the one piece seal I have seen two different videos on the install where they test fitted it and it crumpled up just a bit. Like it was just a smidge to big. One person just trimmed it every so slightly and the other person sanded the outside down.

I guess the point here is to test fit it first and look it over very carefully.

  #25  
Old 11-14-2022, 07:39 PM
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NeighborsComplaint NeighborsComplaint is offline
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Originally Posted by rohrt View Post
On the one piece seal I have seen two different videos on the install where they test fitted it and it crumpled up just a bit. Like it was just a smidge to big. One person just trimmed it every so slightly and the other person sanded the outside down.

I guess the point here is to test fit it first and look it over very carefully.
The two-piece seals I installed had to be dry-fitted and trimmed. They both had a braided wire tensioner molded inside to maintain their shape and tension. You dry fitted, marked, removed the crank and seal, trimmed and dressed the ends square and then reinstalled in silicone sealant.

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  #26  
Old 11-14-2022, 08:51 PM
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Trimming the end of the seal was the first instruction, but now BOP recommends sanding the outside of the seal. If the seal sits square with the centerline of the journals then either method will work. If a slight correction needs to be made to center up the seal, then sanding does both the centering and reducing diameter.

The below seal was damaged in shipping when a crank molested it, and I just didn't trust that it could be returned to a usable shape. You can see that despite my best efforts the metal band still isn't really round. We cut the Viton away to get a look at how it was made. That skinny section of metal is at the opposite end of where it is marked to be cut and I suspect that this narrow section allows it to more easily twist around the crank when putting it in position.
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