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  #41  
Old 11-13-2022, 11:28 AM
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A lot of hydraulic roller lifters have a disc that has a tendency to break, it's underneath the pushrod cup. The broken disc can now move around and block the oil hole. The lifters works but won't oil the pushrod.

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  #42  
Old 11-13-2022, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik View Post
Use insulated pliers and pull up one plug wire at a time to disable it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slowbird View Post
Pulled all 8 plug wires while running
This is not a great idea. Having an open circuit on the ignition secondary side drives the voltage sky-high; leads to problems with insulation--it's hard on the plug wires, cap, rotor, and the coil including the insulation on the internal windings.

MUCH better to GROUND the spark in order to kill each cylinder in turn.

Blunt the sharp points of eight small nails. Lightly lube the nails with silicone dielectric grease, then slide the nails between the plug wires and the distributor boots. You'll feel the nails touch the metal end of the plug wire. DO NOT puncture the insulation.

Then touch each nail in turn with a grounded jumper-wire or 12V test light (the lamp won't light up.)

No high voltage, no insulation damage.

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  #43  
Old 11-13-2022, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
This is not a great idea. Having an open circuit on the ignition secondary side drives the voltage sky-high; leads to problems with insulation--it's hard on the plug wires, cap, rotor, and the coil including the insulation on the internal windings.

MUCH better to GROUND the spark in order to kill each cylinder in turn.

Blunt the sharp points of eight small nails. Lightly lube the nails with silicone dielectric grease, then slide the nails between the plug wires and the distributor boots. You'll feel the nails touch the metal end of the plug wire. DO NOT puncture the insulation.

Then touch each nail in turn with a grounded jumper-wire or 12V test light (the lamp won't light up.)

No high voltage, no insulation damage.
I had plug wires grounded to header. So spark had a place to go

  #44  
Old 11-14-2022, 09:30 PM
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Default Well this sucks

Title and pic says it all
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  #45  
Old 11-14-2022, 09:43 PM
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Well hey now you can build back better, That sux ya figure bearing material ?

  #46  
Old 11-14-2022, 10:14 PM
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I think you know why the lifter didn't work?

Sorry to see that.


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Old 11-14-2022, 10:25 PM
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What are you showing us? There's no reference for size; that could be a cup of Starbux coffee with melted whipped cream, and a goofy-looking "sprinkle" on top.

No, the title and pic DON'T "say it all".

  #48  
Old 11-14-2022, 10:34 PM
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Yeah...is that a Latte, or hot chocolate?

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Old 11-14-2022, 10:43 PM
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That is the bottom of the cut open oil filter.

  #50  
Old 11-14-2022, 10:55 PM
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Looks like sand?Tom

  #51  
Old 11-15-2022, 05:49 AM
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Assuming that is iron/steel and not bronze or copper? Trash from assembly? Oxide from a rusty block?

I guess either one is not good.

If you do a rebuild .... get some niobium bar magnets and stick them around the circumference of the filter housing. Then when you cut filter open the ferrous material will be stuck to the housing walls and the bearing materials and other non-ferrous particles will be in the bottom.

I typically leave the magnets on all the time to help keep very fine metal particles out of the oil.

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Old 11-15-2022, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
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Looks like sand?Tom
Panning for gold.

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  #53  
Old 11-15-2022, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowbird View Post
Title and pic says it all

Is this a follow up to your other post on

Thoughts on knocking sound??
If so, Dam that too bad. Sorry that happened to your engine. Can you give us more on the cause. Oil doesn't look so good for sure.

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  #54  
Old 11-15-2022, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckies76ta View Post
Is this a follow up to your other post on

Thoughts on knocking sound??
If so, Dam that too bad. Sorry that happened to your engine. Can you give us more on the cause. Oil doesn't look so good for sure.
One I find out the root cause of the copper/brass I'll let you know. But my guess is either the cam gear is chewed up or a bearing.

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  #55  
Old 11-15-2022, 10:43 AM
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I don’t believe Brass is used in the make up of modern replaceable bearings.

Time to yank the dizzy and look down at the gear.

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  #56  
Old 11-15-2022, 12:07 PM
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if its bearing material could be main thrust bearing easy to check without tear down by looking at crankshaft endplay

pry crankshaft fore aft should be easy to spot excess without a dial indicator


Last edited by Formulas; 11-15-2022 at 12:13 PM.
  #57  
Old 11-15-2022, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey View Post
What are you showing us? There's no reference for size; that could be a cup of Starbux coffee with melted whipped cream, and a goofy-looking "sprinkle" on top.

No, the title and pic DON'T "say it all".
There's really no title needed for a pic like that.

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  #58  
Old 11-15-2022, 02:24 PM
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Before you spring into action get your bearings ... OK sorry for both the puns and your misfortune.

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  #59  
Old 11-15-2022, 02:29 PM
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Without rereading the whole thread, was this a Hydraulic Roller camshaft lifter?

Manufacturer?

Tom V.

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  #60  
Old 11-15-2022, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
Without rereading the whole thread, was this a Hydraulic Roller camshaft lifter?

Manufacturer?

Tom V.
Hi Tom

It is a HR camshaft and lifter set that came from Competition Cams

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