[Transamric]

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

[grd777]

Originally Posted by Transamric

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

Try Goo off

[Norwood]

Use a heat gun from the underside

[Red80TA]

The GM seal changed over they years, possibly supplier rather than improvements, but even while it was rubber, latex coated, hollow in different areas, solid sponge or rope core, it still had the same part number, often a couple depending on length of seal. As in, it still didn't tell you what version you were getting, or what was used during production line use.

Hollow seals have benefits but haven't seen anyone actually give feedback on a comparison to the regular rubber seal they are still slamming to try and close.

[78w72]

3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.

I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed.

[hiyabradHO]

Originally Posted by 78w72

3M makes a product specifically for this, doesnt harm paint & will soften up the old glue so you can wipe it off with a rag or usually a little more effort with a old toothbrush or nylon brush. Should be able to just pull off the old W/S or try heat from underside but be careful, too much heat will damage the paint.

I have some of the 3M left and can get the part# if needed.

Would love to get the part number. Thanks.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by hiyabradHO

Would love to get the part number. Thanks.

The can I have is 3m general purpose adhesive cleaner #08987. That # might be older, the current stuff I see online is part# 08984, probably have it in smaller cans at local auto stores or auto paint suppliers.

Follow instructions on the can & it works great & should not damage the paint, Ive used it on numerous trunk weatherstrips as well as T top channels.

[Red80TA]

Precision trunk seal is what 1A use in video. It is the same seal supplied to Classic, OER and similar places. The bags are labelled everywhere about being registered in the US, it is made in Taiwan.....or TW, as it says in tiny letters.

This is the type used, it is not F-body type/size being sold by others, they all seem to fit the same 1/2" channel so swapping around works.

https://catalog.prp.com/images/Websi...1_SA_LGE-2.jpg


This is the listing for Precision 70-81 F body seal.

https://catalog.prp.com/images/Websi...0_SA_LGE-2.jpg

And then many others list either and to suit all models GM. I have the Precision K3020 here, same that is labelled for Classic or OER etc, and is the standard 1" tall type, taller than both of the other versions. So rather than selecting a brand or shop that says it fits your model, you may need to request a particular part number. How tall was stock GM, production era? How easily did it compress, or seal? These seals are probably all fine, in their own application, but if hard to close the lid on these vehicles you generally need a softer version of same, or shorter version in height, or combination of both.

Just to remain confusing, here's another cross-section that claims to be the same thing. 1" tall which is fairly standard and generic. But 3/8" base. What's the channel size on a Firebird? I don't have access to one here. Is it meant to be a snug fit or are the larger sizes perhaps compressed slightly to fit? The K3020 bag I have here is halfway between the 3/8 and 1/2" wide at base, but also tapered as it goes up.

https://www.steelerubber.com/trunk-w...rip-82-0028-84

[Red80TA]

3060942 is the shorter version of the 9825829 seal, 13' vs 25'.

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by Red80TA

3060942 is the shorter version of the 9825829 seal, 13' vs 25'.

Shorter version, no string, plastic lower stiffener and much taller than the original assembly line part. Still better though than some of the repros.
IIRC, that number was made in Canada.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Transamric

But before I install the new, I have to safely remove the old W/S. The paint is nice so can't use any chemicals too strong. Any recommendations as to what methodology has worked well for you guys?

Please , please, Verify the Shape ( cross section) is the exact same, and same size. There are a ton of not so good repops, including late 80's GM stuff.

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Please , please, Verify the Shape ( cross section) is the exact same, and same size. There are a ton of not so good repops, including late 80's GM stuff.

I'm finding that out. I currently have 3 potential replacements; 2 different brand repros and 1 NOS I bought either in the late '80's or early '90's, GM #9825829 (box dated 1982?). The only one I can tell for sure is a latex covered one is the GM item. But it's considerably larger in every dimension.
I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft.
Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product?

[unruhjonny]

Originally Posted by Transamric

I'm finding that out. I currently have 3 potential replacements; 2 different brand repros and 1 NOS I bought either in the late '80's or early '90's, GM #9825829 (box dated 1982?). The only one I can tell for sure is a latex covered one is the GM item. But it's considerably larger in every dimension.
I was able to cut some clean cross sections from my old molding and only the Ames FK201C matches pretty closely, but is a simple extrusion, not coated and noticeably less soft.
Any more ideas on finding a more accurate product?

I am subscribing to this thread from this post...

[Red80TA]

If you actually read my reply you'd see I was clarifying the details that were in the video, the brand and the part number used. Or just guess since part numbers don't matter. The crucial height, wasn't even crucial enough to mention, so I did.
That's where it is pointed out that the seal used was not even one for F bodies. So again, a part number is handy or you won't find it. That is assuming you only want it based on the height.
So I added their other 2 common sizes as well, the last of which is used by everyone. Or just rely on vague suggestions of limited detail but still expect an exact and calculated result.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Red80TA

If you actually read my reply you'd see I was clarifying the details that were in the video, the brand and the part number used. Or just guess since part numbers don't matter. The crucial height, wasn't even crucial enough to mention, so I did.
That's where it is pointed out that the seal used was not even one for F bodies. So again, a part number is handy or you won't find it. That is assuming you only want it based on the height.
So I added their other 2 common sizes as well, the last of which is used by everyone. Or just rely on vague suggestions of limited detail but still expect an exact and calculated result.

No offense was meant. I tested and found what they sell fits well.

[Red80TA]

And make sure it installs the correct way, don't trust what just came out as being correct.

[sixty8ragtop]

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by sixty8ragtop

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture accumulation at the typical 6 o’clock location. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

For 2nd gen firebirds I recall reading the seam was a couple inches to the left or right of the trunk latch. thats where I put it on a few cars with no leaks.

If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting.

[sixty8ragtop]

Originally Posted by 78w72

For 2nd gen firebirds I recall reading the seam was a couple inches to the left or right of the trunk latch. thats where I put it on a few cars with no leaks.

If not doing a NOS type resto, Ive had very good results with the Metro brand trunk seal, door seals too, looks & fits nice & has held up for almost 15 years & counting.

It appears that my 2 o’clock seam location may be a bit high. I have noticed that most replacement trunk seal seams are located at the 6 o’clock position. I have seen some very nice rides with a few inch offset in either direction from 6 o’clock. I have the flexibility to move or replace my trunk seal at any time, as I did not glue it in place during my last restoration. I have not experienced any water leaks so far, so my only concern is shrinkage over time. I am not the least bit concerned with any points judging repercussions..

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by sixty8ragtop

Wondering what the factory spec was for the location of the trunk weatherstrip seam (where the ends meet)? My seam is located at a 2 o’clock position, which so far has avoided moisture. Anyone have a picture of an original seal installation for reference?

My experience is primary with 'F' and 'A' bodies, so may be different for your app. However in every case the end seams have been near the 6 o'clock position. And by 'near' I mean usually a bit to the left of center.