[Ogre]

1972 Lemans Vert which was obviously rear-ended at some time, and I need to repair it, so asking for advice and any tips before I dig into it. I'm a novice, so any advice from more experienced body guys would be GREAT!

Pics 1, 2, and 3 below show the horrible bondo job done to try to make the trunk latch work (it does, but shaky), but the square latch inside the trunk is ripped from the lip. There is no way to reattach it, but it would not be that good anyway. The nuts for bumper attachment below the lip are also terribly distorted. The bumper is attached, but you should see the spacers and shims, etc. I used to get it on.

Several years ago, I was at a junk yard and had them cut out the copper-colored lip for me, so I have the part needed (in pics 4 and 5).

Would I be better off using a small amount of the replacement or go all the way out to the edges. My main concern is the forces applied to a small welded in piece vs. a longer welded in piece. You can see some marks where I have been considering the cuts.

Also anybody who has done this type of replacement have any advice?

Thanks in advance,
Ogre

[ponchonlefty]

Originally Posted by Ogre

1972 Lemans Vert which was obviously rear-ended at some time, and I need to repair it, so asking for advice and any tips before I dig into it. I'm a novice, so any advice from more experienced body guys would be GREAT!

Pics 1, 2, and 3 below show the horrible bondo job done to try to make the trunk latch work (it does, but shaky), but the square latch inside the trunk is ripped from the lip. There is no way to reattach it, but it would not be that good anyway. The nuts for bumper attachment below the lip are also terribly distorted. The bumper is attached, but you should see the spacers and shims, etc. I used to get it on.

Several years ago, I was at a junk yard and had them cut out the copper-colored lip for me, so I have the part needed (in pics 4 and 5).

Would I be better off using a small amount of the replacement or go all the way out to the edges. My main concern is the forces applied to a small welded in piece vs. a longer welded in piece. You can see some marks where I have been considering the cuts.

Also anybody who has done this type of replacement have any advice?

Thanks in advance,
Ogre

it has been my practice to keep as much original metal as possible.grind off the filler to see the damage. its a little more work but i like to see what i'm working with. as far as welding if you don't have experience practice first. be careful grinding the welds. you don't want to make it thinner. i would not use a gasless welder for this repair. you may find after you remove the filler you can dolly and straighten instead of cutting and welding. i don't think smaller vs bigger patch will make any structural difference just more welding and grinding.

[400 4spd.]

I would probably cut some clean edges about an inch inboard of the dimples and use as much of the panel as you can. Consider it a straight template to determine if the trunk floor edge is bent inward. And you will need less filler when you finish it off. Plus, this will place your trunk latch component in the right location.
If you use a minimal short section, you might have less filler than you do now, but you may also be welding it to a bent floor and not be able to see it. Not to mention trunk leak issues from the seal not doing it's job.
I've been cutting and welding cars for 47 years, so that's how I would fix it.

[Ogre]

Thanks for the comments guys. That gives me a starting point.

And lefty, I use the argon gas with my mig welder. I'm not great, but I do a fair job for a rookie. And hammer and dolly are my best friends on this car!

I looked at it again, and inside of the trunk it looks like somebody used a sledgehammer to flatten the trunk floor, and move the back edge out. It's really ugly!

So I think the largest piece (thanks 4Spd) just inside the ripples on the trunk floor will be best, and I need to make sure and measure , measure , measure to make sure I get the trunk latch EXACTLY where it needs to be. There's not much adjustment available if it's off to the side or too far in or out.

I'll add some more pics as I go through the process, so I can get some feedback.

Ogre

[tjs72lemans]

One of the problems you are up against in measuring, is it may already be in a different location than factory now. But, if trunk closes now and latches fine, you should be ok.

[Ogre]

Thanks TJ. I think the measurement will not be too bad.

I was very lucky back then to discover a front end destroyed '72 Lemans. The fenders were buckled and rusted, and the engine was gone. Looked like it got side-swiped in the front, but the rear was in pretty good shape. Wish I had gotten more ... like quarters, rear panels, etc.

Anyway, I started up my project and backed out in the sunlight to take some more pics to show the "superior" sledgehammer work that was done. Obviously the bumper is not from the pre-damaged Vert. It must have been terribly bent. Without the spot welds for the latch, I can move the panel lip almost an inch back'n'forth like it is thin metal.

I'll post later, but I think the "ridges" (or whatever they are called) for rigidity will be very good to help me align the replacement.

One other part of the project is the rear cross member of the frame (pass. side) has slight bend to it also (not perfectly straight like the driver's side). Unless you look really close you can't tell, but I know it's there, so I will probably wrap a chain around it, and put it under stress, then get my torch out to get it hot enough to straighten. That'll be another thread.

Still trying to get my nerve up to start cutting ... small at first and expand as I need to.

Ogre

[Ogre]

Quick update to let y'all see what I am dealing with to see if there are more (better) ideas to fix it.

1st pic is inside the trunk where the latch is pulled from the spot welds. 2nd pic is looking straight down at the bumper/rear of panel ... don't think I should be able to see the ground, huh? 3rd pic is a good shot of the sledgehammer work.

4th and 5th are the replacement part. It's actually both the internal metal and external metal, so I'll be welding both sides. My current plan is to use the replacement out to the second rib/ridge on both sides. I know this goes against using as much of the original metal as possible (which I agree with), but in order to get it looking and functioning right, I think I need to use more of the replacement.

Any and all comments are appreciated, because I want to do it as well as a novice can. And before anyone asks ... NO, I am not made of money. I wish I could afford to have someone else do it. It will be time-consuming because of my skill level.

TIA,
Ogre
BTW, the trunk lid is not the original one either. It will fit, but needs to be slightly modified. Based on the damage, I'm sure the original one took it in the shorts too.

[Ogre]

I forgot to mention when I started this thread, that this is NOT a concourse restoration. This is probably not even a "keeper." The '72 hard top on my rotisserie is the one I want to finish and keep. That info will hopefully help y'all give me advice. I definitely do not wish to take it the boat ramp, and see how far it can go before it goes really deep. But these old gals are getting rarer and I'd like to get this one back on the road (in roadworthy condition). All of the mechanicals a great, interior carpet/reupholstering done, brakes, engine, tranny, etc. are all good.

Bumper is off, so a few more shots of the damage below. I am back to using as much original metal as possible, but after digging into the bondo, I will need to go to at least the first ridge and the second will be a little better.

I would almost bet that something will torque after I cut, so I am planning on bracing inside, and using tie down straps outside (around the quarters and over the trunk opening) to make sure everything stays in place. Speaking of trunk opening ... from the top by the rear window it is 52 1/8" - 52 1/4" wide, and most of the way all the way down to the rear lip. After the downturn to the rear bottom opening it is 51 3/4" ... or 1/2" narrower. So I need to take that into consideration as I put the new metal in.

As always advice is welcome ... Next step jack it up and remove the fuel tank ... I have no desire to be cutting close to a fuel tank with gas in it !!

The last pic below is the replacement piece showing how far the "water drip" part should stick out.

Ogre

[ponchonlefty]

Originally Posted by Ogre

I forgot to mention when I started this thread, that this is NOT a concourse restoration. This is probably not even a "keeper." The '72 hard top on my rotisserie is the one I want to finish and keep. That info will hopefully help y'all give me advice. I definitely do not wish to take it the boat ramp, and see how far it can go before it goes really deep. But these old gals are getting rarer and I'd like to get this one back on the road (in roadworthy condition). All of the mechanicals a great, interior carpet/reupholstering done, brakes, engine, tranny, etc. are all good.

Bumper is off, so a few more shots of the damage below. I am back to using as much original metal as possible, but after digging into the bondo, I will need to go to at least the first ridge and the second will be a little better.

I would almost bet that something will torque after I cut, so I am planning on bracing inside, and using tie down straps outside (around the quarters and over the trunk opening) to make sure everything stays in place. Speaking of trunk opening ... from the top by the rear window it is 52 1/8" - 52 1/4" wide, and most of the way all the way down to the rear lip. After the downturn to the rear bottom opening it is 51 3/4" ... or 1/2" narrower. So I need to take that into consideration as I put the new metal in.

As always advice is welcome ... Next step jack it up and remove the fuel tank ... I have no desire to be cutting close to a fuel tank with gas in it !!

The last pic below is the replacement piece showing how far the "water drip" part should stick out.

Ogre

yeah, i can see better what your dealing with. looks like alot of welding and grinding. sounds like you have a good plan. i would not cut on the line. give yourself some room to adjust. maybe 1 inch around so the replacement overlaps. then fine tune from there. take your time you will be successful .

[Ogre]

Thanks lefty. I appreciate the feedback.

Ogre

[Ogre]

BTW, you would think a more discerning car purchaser (me) would have been a little suspect of the damage extent when he/she replaced this fuel tank in 2006. LOL

Probably a good indication of some necessary body work. Of course, my primary efforts have been on the engine/brakes/trans and other mechanicals. Just got started on the stripping/body work/priming part of this project.

Ogre

[ponchonlefty]

Originally Posted by Ogre

BTW, you would think a more discerning car purchaser (me) would have been a little suspect of the damage extent when he/she replaced this fuel tank in 2006. LOL

Probably a good indication of some necessary body work. Of course, my primary efforts have been on the engine/brakes/trans and other mechanicals. Just got started on the stripping/body work/priming part of this project.

Ogre

it happens to all of us. these old cars get repaired in interesting ways over time.