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#21
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If I can ever figure out how to get the heavy, rock hard 46 year old glue deposits off of my near perfect '68 core, I'll do mine and post it here too. I just can't get myself up to try to get all of that stuff off of there.
Anyone have any ideas about something that will soften it up without damaging the core?
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#22
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What kind of glue?? Old contact cement that held on some sort of woodgrain? If so, 3M Adhesive Remover and lots of time to let it soften and lift the contact cement. Won't hurt the ABS plastic.
If it's some other type then pick at it and see if it will lift or snap off the plastic. I've had to do a lot of this on dashpads I've restored where a piece of bright trim was usually reglued to the pads when the factory glue failed...inevitably, it seems like they used some version of Krazy Glue. Fortunately, it can be picked/peeled off. If the glue is of a sort that actually melts into the ABS then you'll probably have to sand it down smooth as it won't be something that can be picked/peeled/pried off.
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
The Following User Says Thank You to P Glade For This Useful Post: | ||
#23
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It appears to be the original glue that held the woodgrain on. I'd guess some old contact glue...or as they used to call it, Cement glue. Cement is a good word for it.
Damaging the plastic is my main concern. This one has the original '68 only blue/green/grey color to it and I want to preserve that as well. I will give the 3M a try. Thanks!
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#24
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I have used the 3M product on a number of '70-72 Olds Cutlass/442 lower dash plastic bezels. The factory typically put a long woodgrain strip along the bottom area (and on over to the corresponding area on the glovebox door. Held on with contact cement of some kind as mentioned earlier.
To remove the original woodgrains I have to "flow" some of the 3M stuff in behind the woodgrain (there are usually some loose areas on the ends, etc where you can pry it up slightly and pour in some of the 3M stuff). Then I let it sit, and then "flow" in some more. VERY SLOWLY and as the 3M stuff loosens the glue I pull off the woodgrain. After that there is usually quite a bit of glue still on the ABS plastic bezel surface (it's a textured surface on these bezels). I set the bezel down horizontally and pour on some more 3M product. Eventually it'll soften the glue and sort of get it "bubbling up" a bit. I lightly scrape it off or use a Scotchbrite pad to help "grab" the residue. Avoid any real sharp metal scrapers or don't use a sharp angle with one or heavy pressure. Takes quite a bit of time which I usually have to explain to the customers....some have thought the old woodgrain would pull right off and then it would just be a matter of easily slapping the new woodgrain on there. If it were only so easy/fast!
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#25
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If it was that easy, they'd do it themselves huh? lol
Thanks for the tips. I will try it when I get back to that particular project.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#26
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Guys, I just did another one of these dashes, this time using the much cheaper Hobby Shop version of the product called 'Spaz Stix'.
I started a thread with photos of each step in the 'Interior Tech' section. Hopefully, the thread will give some who want to try this a leg up on the process. The stuff I used this time was only 8 bucks and change. Results were AT LEAST as good as the expensive Alsa Corp. product and frankly, didn't seem nearly as picky about application. Still used a couple of light coats but the reflective qualities were apparent right away. Then I stopped.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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