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#1
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It's been a while sine I used any "chrome" paint. I do remember it not being very good. But that was a long time ago. Is there a really good chrome paint out there ??? Rattle can would be preferred since I don't need too much. I have a fiberglass center panel for the dash radio/gauges area that I would like to paint top look like the factory version. I was figuring on using wrinkle paint for the main part then a chrome color for the outer trim color. If I need to clear it afterwards to help keep it from rubbing off which was the problem with the old stuff no big deal. Just looking for a paint that has a really good chrome appearance.
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#2
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Don't know what you're trying to do, but read this thread.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...+killer+chrome Don't put the clear on top, dulls it up. Charles |
#3
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My goal is to try and make the fiberglass bezel look like the factory panel on my 67 'Bird. I figure some wrinkle paint for the black center. And some kind of chrome for the outer trim.
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#4
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The regular chrome spray paint looks like polished aluminum, not chrome. Not a bad look, just not chrome. The 'killer chrome' is the best system I have seen for replicating chrome without actually re-chroming.
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Jeff |
#5
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I've tried several of the chrome paint in spray cans & when you get the can the lid is nice & shinny but when you spray it out it comes out looking like bright alum. It doesn't look like the can lid at all. There is a system out that when you use it it looks better then chrome. I've seen it several time on youtube & it looks great. It is a 2 or 3 part system & it isn't very expensive from what I remember. But the spray cans don't work ,, at least fro me they didn't.
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#6
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Try the rust-oleum metallic finish did the A/C vents I think it turned out great
Best chrome paint I have seen |
#7
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![]() Quote:
http://youtu.be/jRQIYbX08gM
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![]() 69 OHC ZH Sprint Hurst 3 Speed 3:55 (1 of 213) 99 Valkyrie 1520cc Flat 6 108hp/110tq - For Sale http://sohcsix.yuku.com/forums/1/OHC-lounge Wanted: 1969 OHC "H" Camshaft |
#8
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If I was to try it again I'd try something from a hobby shop that uses an air brush..Alclad is the brand name I believe. As already mentioned by a previous poster...if you shoot clear over the traditional spray can chrome paints it'll dull it down and make it look more grey...not what you are looking for.
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#9
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http://www.eastwood.com/ew-liquid-ch...clear-kit.html
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#10
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#11
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The kid doing the video hit on a couple of things that I believe pinpoint the mistakes many people have made with the Alsa Corp Killer Chrome. I guarantee you'll have the same problems with the Alclad if you don't follow these clues he mentioned...
At least, that's been my experience with the Alsacorp stuff. Next time, I'll definitely try the Alclad from the local hobby shop, since I had already decided that if I bought more of the Killer Chrome from Alsa Corp, I was just going to get the silver. $10 a bottle at the hobby shop is a heck of a deal when compared to the $50 can from Alsa Corp. I can do my own black with Krylon Rust Tough. It has a great gloss and that's key to the chrome-like finish.. Here's one I did with the Killer Chrome. Excuse the warped plastic at the top of the bezel. I have a better (and unmolested) core now that I am now going to try the Alclad on.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 12-14-2013 at 04:35 PM. |
#12
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What Greg said above is absolutely the truth. The shine on the black is 90% of the job.
The lighter the chrome, the better. And no clear, just dulls it up. Charles |
#13
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Greg - Please clarify something... people always mention "very light coats. Well....does that mean, based on your experience with WHAT WORKED, that.... >You spray very light coats but MANY of them until you have a completely "chrome" looking surface. In other words, until the underlying black is COMPLETELY HIDDEN???? OR... >You only spray a few light coats and leave a somewhat transparent finish with the black still "showing through"....ie..black not completely hidden?? Another poster above alluded to these "light coats" as well I believe. So....two different techniques/end results I am asking about and BOTH use light coats. Difference is in how well hidden the underlying black is. I'm not referring at all to the clear in these questions....just the second stage (the "chrome" paint itself). Thanks
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#14
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Well Patton, I guess I would describe it as 'fog' coats. I'll admit that it is tricky and I haven't done it enough to have foolproof results on everything I've tried it on. I think the key is that when it looks good to you, STOP. It's not like traditional paint where when it looks good, you can put another nice, wet coat on and it looks even better or 'deeper' (as long as you don't induce any sags or runs)....
Also, don't linger over the surface as long as you would with paint. In the following clip from Killer Chrome, notice how fast he moves across the piece generally just fogging the surface....and also with a good bit of distance from the object. With paint, it's a slower, but constant speed across the surface. The biggest problem I have with the Killer Chrome is consistency of results...and that probably comes with practice. With the Killer Chrome, that could get expensive. The Alclad is definitely in a good form to just play around with until you get the results you want. Again, the black shiny surface is critical to the results. That's the main thing I learned in playing around with it. The slicker that is, the better. I've even seen some recommending a slick clear coat over the black before adding the Chrome. http://www.alsacorp.com/live/view_ki...rome_demo.html Any way you cut it, even though this stuff is not 100% like chrome, it is light years ahead of that stuff you buy at Wal-Mart or Autozone with the chrome cap. Not even close.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#15
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Thanks Greg....but
![]() >Are you completely hiding the black undercoat with however many light "chrome" coats it takes...OR...are you only applying a few fogged coats of the chrome and leaving it a bit transparent?? Your comment above to the effect...."until it looks good" leads me to think you are completely covering/hiding the underlying black and achieving a "bright" chrome finish with the fogged on coats instead of leaving it transparent..... ??? Thanks very much!
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#16
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I found we have a hydro graphics place here in town. I'll stop by and see what they say. I'm considering carbon in the center and a polished look on the edge. I'll do a follow up after I talk to them.
http://www.tacticalgraphicsinc.com/
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#17
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Charles |
#18
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I tried the killer chrome also and I didn't like it.Way too expensive,I ended up sending mine out to be done.Good luck.Tim
Mr G's Enterprises |
#19
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I definitely would NOT say you are actively trying to let the black show through. You are spraying enough to cover the black but 'somehow' it does have a definite effect on the look of the topcoat. I would say that the chrome is sort of translucent. It drys out almost immediately. I suppose the only liquid in the mix is just as a medium for depositing the metal on the object. Whatever it is, it evaporates rapidly. The most important thing here is to know when to stop. When it looks good, don't add more thinking it'll look better. Experimentation is helpful here. Lots of people have apparently had problems with the process/product. In fact, the can I had, I bought used from a member here who said it was junk. I expect that I could probably buy a few more cans that way from some of the guys here. I used all that was left in that can getting one thing to look right. I think I could do it again knowing what I know now about the surface prep. Slick, shiny, black. I would say that whichever you use, the Alclad or the Killer Chrome, again, practice with it for a while on a slick, black object. Once you can get it to work on something, you'll see the potential. This is where the Alclad should have a definite advantage due to the much cheaper cost. EDIT- I did a quick search for a comparison between the two products and came up with an interesting post from a plastic modeler's forum. Seems they had problems with the Killer Chrome as well. They mentioned another that looks like it may be even better than the Alclad. It's called 'Spaz Stix'. This is a comparison between all three. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t638...ome_quot_.html Well detailed and honest review from a real-world user and the photos are good enough to show what you can really expect. Not exactly like true factory chrome but a nice finish that looks like highly polished metal. This Spaz stuff looks promising as well. Note also, that he had better results even with the Killer Chrome using an airbrush. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t638...ome_quot_.html
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 12-17-2013 at 04:05 PM. |
#20
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Thanks all.....I think it's likely that the spray can form is the culprit instead of the product itself. The killer chrome video doesn't show the guy doing super light coats and leaving transparency. He appears to get very thorough hiding/coverage.
I may experiment with some that I have left using the very light coats and not-completely-hidden-black coverage. You're right Greg...this stuff has to be figured out as what I am working with requires a massive and tedious masking operation. The LAST thing is the coating and having it screw up or come out inconsistent is a real pisser after going through all the prior steps. If I get some results I'll post here but not sure when I'll be doing this stuff so it may be awhile. EDIT: someone mentioned Mr. G's...I've heard they're out of the plastic rechroming business (not a huge loss as people were constantly having problems with them on some other Abody sites). I recommend ChromeTech USA for vacuum metallizing. Thanks
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
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