[Scarebird]

The passenger side bearing on my Lemans has started squealing bad. Removal has shown the case came apart. Dealing with front tapered bearings, they do not have this retainer snapping onto the race.

Was this the cause of the squealing? Will the race need to be removed from the tube? (a bugger to remove, need to weld a bead to pull).

[Scott Thelander]

>>>>??????
way more info needed
year ??
front or rear ?? 10 bolt 12 bolt Pontiqc or chev or ?? tapered you mention so if the rear sounds like it might be an 8.5 ?? 71 72 diff
front disc ??? one of your kits ??
front drum ?? slide off the hub style or one piece drum n hub ?

or
just a picture helps tooooooooooooooo

sounds like front bearings now I re read it slowwwly
clean the grease out of the hub REAL WELL
a 10" punch with a 1/4" contact face and you go in from the other side of the race your removing

I am 10-7 and on the side

IM sure there is a top of videos on" yourtube"
correct tools are very important,,
time for one of your kits ???


Scott

[steve25]

When ever a bearing gets replaced with anything over 300 miles on it the race needs to be replaced also.
They should pound out from the middle as posted above with a punch.
Note that you will need the old race to be used as a spacer to drive the new race in and seat it.

[Scarebird]

Rear axle bearing, was supposed to type "A9".

Steve - the axle race is really a bugger to get out; last time had to use a MIG welder and lay a bead; no ledge for a puller to grab.

Scott - most rotors are quite easy to pop the race out - no issue. Didn't use the door handle skins.

[67Fbird]

I have had luck using a piece of flat bar stock. Cut it off and round the ends and drill a hole in the middle then put it INSIDE the axle tube to rest on the bearing race (yes you must shape this pretty close so it has something to bite on) then use my axle puller with a nut n bolt.

[HWYSTR455]

Th A9s in the 442, which is a 72 8.5, never fit right, I had to go back to the roller bearing caged type. My races were loose in the tube, and there was too much side to side slop. It was a fresh rebuild of the whole rear, and wasn't going to swap the housing ends at that point. (while assembled)

There's a problem solver type rear caged bearing, if you have used axles, they would help where the seal rides seal better. There was a time the caged bearings weren't available, luckily they are now.

If you're going to swap the housing ends, the Moser hybrid ones are the way to go. But, obviously, to do it 'right', you need a jig to ensure the ends are square. You could though at that point weld the tubes too.

I've heard people use a ratcheting exhaust pipe cutter on the axles tube to cut or scribe it square, and had 'good' results, if you're willing to take a chance. They basically are a typical tube cutter design.

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[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by 67Fbird

I have had luck using a piece of flat bar stock. Cut it off and round the ends and drill a hole in the middle then put it INSIDE the axle tube to rest on the bearing race (yes you must shape this pretty close so it has something to bite on) then use my axle puller with a nut n bolt.

I did try that when removing the race last time - there was not enough purchase on the race.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Th A9s in the 442, which is a 72 8.5, never fit right, I had to go back to the roller bearing caged type. My races were loose in the tube, and there was too much side to side slop. It was a fresh rebuild of the whole rear, and wasn't going to swap the housing ends at that point. (while assembled)...

I should have attached the pix I found, it shows a roller as stock, tapered as replacement. Fronts I deal with have a solid force retaining the tapered bearings; keyed washer and adjusting nut. All the rear has is a squishy seal and plate if not that weak race casing. The rear here is actually from a 72 Cutlass with TruTrac rear and HD axles. I may consider the straight roller style.

[HWYSTR455]

The pad kickback was so bad, after a short drive wo applying brakes, it was literally an 'oh chit' moment as the pedal goes to the floor. Then it was a frantic few pumps to get the brakes back.

Dutchman carries the bearings:

https://dutchmanaxles.com/catalogsea..._list_limit=36

They make replacement axles for the bolt in rears too. $330 for a pair of alloy axles is a deal for these days:

https://dutchmanaxles.com/bop-stock-...-pob-pair.html

I called Moser several times regarding the bolt in axle replacements, and although I got my original set from them, they had no idea what I was talking about, which was a little scary.


.

[Skip Fix]

Dutchman can also make the brake pilots longer to use hubcentric wheels and a rotor, Moser will laugh at you and say got lugcentric.

[HWYSTR455]

Yup, Moser immediately says 'send a mechanical diagram for a custom, non-refundable axle'. Really sad.

I had Dutchman cut the hub for disc rotors, I think they charged me $20 per axle.

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[Scarebird]

There was no ledge on the race to grab, so out comes the MIG gun. It loosened the race a bit, enough for a slide hammer with a threaded nut to hook the weld and pull out.



Cut off the race cage and retaining ring. Had a scrap tool that slipped around the cone center, a few tack welds and a trip to the press popped it off (indicated 7 tons of force needed).



I note the seals were different. The new one is rounded off on the outside, which shows me the seal was put on backwards - allowing the race retainer to break. Now I get to check the driver's side to see if that is good...

[67ramair4]

Confused on this thread! Axle comes out with four bolts removed, then press off the collar and bearing. What is the welder for on the axle tube?

Please clarify, as I have never needed a welder to remove a BOP axle!!

[Scarebird]

Note the line in the bearing in the last pic - if that breaks, it leave the race in the axle housing, and no easy way to pull it...

There is nothing to grab on to - note the inner tube is almost flush with the race.

If I did this sort of thing more often I am sure Snap On or Mac have a special collar that bolts to the bearing cone and make removal far easier.

[67ramair4]

I get it now, as per thread #7 picture and your other input. But, why did you use tapered roller bearings on the axle? I've never seen anything other than an enclosed roller bearing (A9) in the BOP rears. Is the tapered roller something added in later years to the BOP axle assemblies?

[Scarebird]

The illustration show roller as production, tapered as service.

You would need to ask GM why. Maybe ol Pinion Head will chime in.

[HWYSTR455]

My understanding the change was an 'upgrade', or 'service replacement', due to tapered bearings handle side loads better.

They also wouldn't be damaged as easily by side impacts, such as a curb strike.

Maybe they had a number of incidents where the roller bearings came apart, who knows.


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