FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#41
|
||||
|
||||
It's all about money, how much do you want to spend? How much do you have to spend? I bought my two post Rotary Lift used for $1,500, installed it with a couple of friends and it does everything I need.
__________________
Tim Corcoran |
The Following User Says Thank You to Tim Corcoran For This Useful Post: | ||
#42
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
The Following User Says Thank You to ta man For This Useful Post: | ||
#43
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
EPA. In-ground, air-over-oil lifts are the cat's meow. Fast going up, even faster (but controllable) coming down. They're WONDERFUL. They make above-ground lifts seem dreadfully slow and ungainly. The two drawbacks are 1) that you've got the post holding the car up in the air right about where the RWD transmission is; so transmission and exhaust work gets more complicated. Or you have a two-post lift, one under the front suspension and one under the rear axle, which sucks for engine oil changes but frees-up space for transmission work; and 2) we'd have to pump water out of the "pit" the cylinder is installed in on a weekly basis--the pit would fill up from high water table, careless floor washing, snow and ice melting off the cars/pickup beds, etc. In-ground lifts are terrific. Until the groundwater rusts the plumbing; or the land shifts and breaks connections. Often, this was a slow leak, with the shop adding gallons of hydraulic fluid a couple times a year to "top-off" the system. When the oil level got low enough, the lifts would "jump" on the way up, near the top of the piston stroke. The sudden movement could throw the car off the hoist. That was unsafe. The oil leakage meant that you've got hydraulic oil directly into the subsoil, which means hydraulic oil in the groundwater, which means the EPA pisses 'n' moans 'n' cries. It got so bad that for awhile, I was hearing of shops that ran their in-ground lifts using vegetable oil. When that leaks out, it's readily bio-degradeable, so it doesn't require hatefully expensive "remediation". Last edited by Schurkey; 07-23-2021 at 02:24 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Schurkey For This Useful Post: | ||
#44
|
||||
|
||||
I was thinking about going with one of these: https://rotarylift.com/product/sl210/
Seems to address a lot of the issue as far as access to the underside of the vehicle. Maybe even countersink it into the floor and make covers so it's flat floor space when not in use. I plan on a steel building so I assume I'd need columns installed if I want an I-beam for a chain fall carriage. Shouldn't need more than about 1.5 ton working load, maybe just one ton, that would cover any engine/trans combos or a full body shell. |
#45
|
||||
|
||||
Well...
Quote:
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
The Following User Says Thank You to SRR For This Useful Post: | ||
#46
|
|||
|
|||
At almost 70 I broke down and had a lift installed last year.....oh how I wish I'd had done that earlier!
__________________
My money talks to me-it usually says goodbye! |
#47
|
||||
|
||||
Gantry crane is certainly a good option, should do most of what I need. Although two columns at the walls, beam, trolley and chain fall shouldn't be outrageously expensive.
Within reason cost isn't much of an issue, nothing gold plated of course Time is somewhat of a consideration and I don't relish the thought of the coordination required with the concrete people for an in-ground lift. But the extra $5K for an in ground lift isn't going to make a difference in the long run and sure would be nice to have the open maneuvering room if I can counter sink it 3" into the floor and cover it with steel panels. Possible the building would have to be built before we move onto the property, so anything that complicates the process would be a pain. If it turns out we can move into temporary housing while the garage and house are being built then anything goes and I can "supervise" the process on site. Carcrazy .... yep, 63 years old now, and just recently I've come across too many things where I've said that to myself, not going to make that mistake going forward. Going to spring for what I want/need now cause this is the shop they will carry me out of on my last day on earth. |
#48
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Sirrotica For This Useful Post: | ||
#49
|
||||
|
||||
BTW, if the 4" ramps on mine are an issue, can just roll the whole shebang out of the way.
|
#50
|
||||
|
||||
I bought a Mohawk USL 6000 portable full height scissor lift about ten years ago. It goes up a full 6 feet, has good under-car access, and disappears when you park a car over it. No posts. My shop is only 24' wide by 42' long, so no posts works for me. It was expensive, and now I believe discontinued, but what a back-saver.
Here's my '67 partially raised for tire work......
__________________
Jeff |
#51
|
||||
|
||||
Moved to Arizona (2016) from So. Cal. So glad I did!!! RV Garage 20' X 60' and a 2 car garage. Best part the RV garage has HVAC. Also built a 2nd floor for car parts and covered carport/ future garage.
__________________
1965 Pontiac 2+2 421 HO auto 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix 428 4 speed- sold 1968 Firebird 400 auto - sold 1967 Bonneville Brougham 2 dr. hardtop. 1969 AMC Rebel SST wagon-sold Last edited by 67GP428; 07-26-2021 at 04:15 AM. |
#52
|
||||
|
||||
One of Murphy's Laws: Working on the ground you will squirm out from under the car for the right tool at least two dozen times or more. Get a lift and the handful of tools you walked under the car with will work for everything.
__________________
Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
The Following User Says Thank You to lust4speed For This Useful Post: | ||
#53
|
|||
|
|||
Adding a lift to your shop will really change how you work on your cars. Everything from motor swaps to detailing becomes easier as more parts of the car become accessible. Originally I bought a 4 post for storage but when I built my 72 I went all out and wanted a two post to be able to drop the subframe, pull suspension etc.
While expensive, a shop is less than a swimming pool and no one gives you sh!t about having a pool…. Here is mine- it’s in a regular neighborhood so it had to look like part of the house. I am very lucky to have something like this |
The Following User Says Thank You to 1965gp For This Useful Post: | ||
#54
|
||||
|
||||
That's what I'm talking about
|
#55
|
||||
|
||||
1965gp you win , stuff dreams are made of..
Love your Pontiac 's, is that a B body hiding in the background, there my favourite. John L Sent from my SM-A426B using Tapatalk
__________________
|
#56
|
||||
|
||||
|
#57
|
||||
|
||||
Damn 1965gp!! Nice stable...
__________________
Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project |
#58
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I went with a BP 10k Asymmetrical unit. Wish I had done it earlier. ps. the asymmetric design also gives more room to get the car doors open. Last edited by 455dan; 07-27-2021 at 11:21 AM. |
#59
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I want the whole underside of the car exposed because if the vehicle is on my lift, it's there to have work done on it, not making another parking place in the garage, or rotate tires, and change oil. If you're buying a lift to work on the underside of the car, this is the type of lift you'll find in most any dealer service department, or garage that performs all types of automotive repair, not just pulling wheels, or changing oil. Having used most all types of lifts as a automotive technician, this is the least intrusive and exposes the bottom of the vehicle to almost any operation a mechanic needs to do. I'm not worried about if the posts don't look aesthetically pleasing, form over function isn't something I worry about.... |
#60
|
||||
|
||||
I've done lots of wrenching in less than ideal conditions at the various places I've lived over the years. On the front lawn, on a gravel drive, or in the street due to not even having a driveway let alone a garage. These days I rent shop space with lift bays that I use to work on my cars, but I've only paid for that luxury for the last 3 years. Work must get done one way or another!
__________________
1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
Reply |
|
|