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  #41  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:00 PM
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I foresee "oil hoarding".

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  #42  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:21 PM
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Any of the good by pass oil filters, Amsoil, Frantz (what I have), just google by pass oil filters and you'll find options. They aren't cheap, but they'll pay back in a few years just on oil savings.

Engine wear minimization can't really be measured in dollars and cents. Filtering to a finer standard should minimize engine wear 6-8 times of what a standard OEM filter system can do.

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  #43  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Champ View Post
Mobil 1 has multiple oils that already have satisfactory levels of ZDDP in them.

They specifically recommend their 15W50 for flat tappet cams. Here is a link to this oil:

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...obil-1-15w-50/

If you go to the link, on the right hand side, there are some quick links. One of them titled "Zinc and Phosporous Levels" will take you to a chart that lists every Mobil 1 oil and has the levels listed.

Other street use oils with over 1000 PPM Zinc and Phosphorous are:

0W40 FS, 5W50 FS X2, 5W40 Formula M, 5W40 Turbo Diesel
Vascillating between the Mobil 1 15w 50 and Valvoline VR1 10w-30 for my new 400 build. Both have high zinc/phosporus levels (M1 = 1300/1200 and VR1 = 1400/1300).

I guess it may boil down to which is more readily available (no pun intended). I suppose the Valvoline might be better for cold fall days. Both are synthetic.

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  #44  
Old 07-28-2021, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by unruhjonny View Post
I think that 'the champ's last post suggested the additive wasn't required if the correct synthetic was used to begin with.

I have understood in the past that synthetics like tighter tolerances;
Maybe that's pure bunk, but that's what I've heard.

I have also seen synthetic blends that are labelled for "higher mileage" engines... maybe that's worth looking into as well.
From what I could see the levels were not the same in all viscosities and many were in the 800 range which I think is too low. That's why I asked about just getting the viscosity you want/need and then using an additive.

The Lucas Oil additive is labeled as a break-in additive but they say you should also use it with any oil at every oil change. One could see why they would want that. They probably want you to shave with it too.

Anyway, there are all sorts of things going on right now but there is really a fairly high demand for these products (I think) and when there is demand, someone usually responds. Now, if it gets legislated out of existence that's another thing but it seems like what the manufactures' do to get around stuff like that is to label the product for "off road use only".

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  #45  
Old 07-28-2021, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
The reason natural gas is used is simply it's cleaner when extracted from the ground, it doesn't already have soil mixed in when it's extracted as crude oil does.
Isn’t that what synthetic is?

  #46  
Old 07-28-2021, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by tigergto View Post
Isn’t that what synthetic is?
Here is a synopsis of what synthetic lubricants can start out as, it can come from many sources, crude, natural gas, etc.

https://www.researchgate.net/publica...s_and_Products

It's then improved to raise the upper temperature oxidation level of just mineral oil, and to lower the pour points at the low end of the temperature spectrum.

There are different formulas, additives, and base stocks used by different companies. The molecular chains are modified in different ways by different processes, not all oil companies use the same formulas to arrive at a synthetic lubricant, they're proprietary.

Natural gas is a base stock used by some companies, but not all companies. natural gas is a less dirty base stock, and requires less processing to be suitable for lubricant production. Pennzoil uses mostly natural gas as their base stock, their claim is it requires less processing as it's less contaminated to begin with.

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  #47  
Old 07-28-2021, 09:46 PM
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My local NAPA had Lucas 10-40 on the shelf. Hot rod,classic car oil. I didn't pay much attention to it at the time

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  #48  
Old 07-28-2021, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhein View Post
From what I could see the levels were not the same in all viscosities and many were in the 800 range which I think is too low. That's why I asked about just getting the viscosity you want/need and then using an additive.
They aren't supposed to be the same. That's why I provided the list with the specifications.

Some oils have the ZDDP levels for flat tappet cams, others aren't designed for them.

800 is too low.

Any of the one's I specifically listed will work for your desired application. A 0W40 and 5W40 will cover everything a 10W40 or 10W30 will cover, only better. For those that want to use a 20W50, the 15W50 will cover, only better.

I've run the 0W40 in my wife's '72 Camaro for nearly 20 years. I've run 15W50 in my 'GTO since I put the 462 in 2013.

I've driven both cars in the winter months as even with the 15W50 as it has a pour point much lower than any 10W30 or 10W40 conventional oil.

The GTO has been driven in all 12 months of the year (nice sunny days only during the winter).

  #49  
Old 07-29-2021, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe's Garage View Post
Always good to save money, eh?

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  #50  
Old 07-29-2021, 06:21 PM
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I'm not too worried that there will be any long term shortage, but you never know. So, I just ordered 58 quarts of Lucas Hot Rod and Classic oil from Summit. It's mineral obviously and it has 2100 ppm of zinc, plus moly and phosphorus. It's mostly 5 quart jugs but I got some single quart size too. I think I prefer the quart size but you do save a lot with the larger size. I should be good for a while.

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  #51  
Old 07-29-2021, 07:25 PM
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Anybody else notice back in the day that 10-40 left more sludge in engines than 10-30 even when religiously changed every 3K miles? I always noticed that when popping a valve cover off to change a gasket or adjust valves. It didn't matter what brand oil was used although Pennzoil and Qaker State were notorious for sludging up engines back then.

  #52  
Old 07-30-2021, 01:55 PM
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Real "full synthetic " is NOT ASH BASED. Ash based is carbon based.
Anyway, if you need thicker oil there is always STP. !

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  #53  
Old 07-30-2021, 02:14 PM
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No way would I ever use 15w-40 in a gas engine. So don't argue with me and give reasons why I should. It AIN'T gonna happen. Ever!

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  #54  
Old 07-30-2021, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GT182 View Post
No way would I ever use 15w-40 in a gas engine. So don't argue with me and give reasons why I should. It AIN'T gonna happen. Ever!
I put an re-manufactured engine in my friends truck 6 years ago and he's been using 15W40 ever since. It doesn't burn oil and has "0" blow by. I use 15W40 in my 95 4.0 Jeep GC same deal. I do live where it's warm all the time though.

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  #55  
Old 08-01-2021, 10:45 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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My local Walmart has 5qt 10w40 Havoline in a BOX - like a Wine Box.
Standard Dino Oil
Very economical that way too - was cheaper than their SuperTech mystery oil.
I used it last month as a "Clean Out/Flush Oil" in an old van i recently bought.

They also offer Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage Synthetic 5qt.
That is what is in the van now, and will continue with.
My local Walmart didn't stock the 10w40 Mobil 1 , next town over had it in stock , but went the lazy route and had it shipped to home.
2 days later it was here.

You can probably have either of those Shipped-to-Home from Walmart, anywhere you live in the Great48 .

Dino oil still has market demand from leakers and burners , and cheapies

I've always been religious to Havoline & Valvoline
When Mobil 1 became affordable , i switched to it.
Their high mileage flavor has healed minor/medium leaks in several of my cars.

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