[Vetteman61]

Is there any reason I cannot use the stock bolts to install an aluminum intake (Edelbrock Performer series)


thanks

[77 TRASHCAN]

I'm not remembering any reason, why not. Just make sure the surface where the under side of the bolt seats, is flat. Some aftermarket intakes (all makes) the casting can be wavy around the bolt holes. Some have a machined seat, there, many do not. I've been working on a friends 71 Chevy pickup. It has a classic 350 in it. have been working on carb, and many other things. A couple of the bolts have the standard head on them. It looks like a thin wall socket wouldn't even get on the head. It will get better bolts when I take off the intake off to re-seal it...

Compare casting thickness where the bolts seat to be for sure.

Make sure you re-check the torque on an aluminum intake. Aluminum expands and contracts a lot more from heating/cooling cycles. Some times re-torquing 2-3 times is needed, especially next to exhaust crossover passage, that get hotter the the others...

[Vetteman61]

Thanks for the advice, that's very helpful. I'll be sure to check those bolts several times.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Why not just buy some new bolts? I bought some really nice aluminum bolts for SBC for around $12 on eBay. Aluminum on aluminum is ideal and the bolts have flanged heads so no washers are required.

[LStathas]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Why not just buy some new bolts? I bought some really nice aluminum bolts for SBC for around $12 on eBay. Aluminum on aluminum is ideal and the bolts have flanged heads so no washers are required.

Aluminum bolts? Ahahahhahaha

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Why not just buy some new bolts? I bought some really nice aluminum bolts for SBC for around $12 on eBay. Aluminum on aluminum is ideal and the bolts have flanged heads so no washers are required.

I am pretty sure you didn't buy aluminum bolts.

True factory intake bolts are ideal because they have a nice shoulder on them that doesn't gall the manifold upon tightening.

[rustedgoat]

At least aluminum is easier to drill out if they snap.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Yes, billet aluminum bolts.

Only an idiot breaks off a 3/8" bolt requiring only 20-25 ft-lbs of torgue. I am more than willing to bet the flange of the intake will crack long before the aluminum bolt shears.

No crappy stainless bolts with deformed washers or crappy painted factory bolts like most people use.

[ZeGermanHam]

Honest question about using aluminum bolts in an iron head: Is galvanic corrosion a concern? I've seen some pretty dire outcomes when aluminum and steel are used together in other settings. It appears those aluminum bolts are intended for LS engines, which of course have aluminum heads rather than iron as appears to be the case in your GTO. If indeed galvanic corrosion is a concern, I'd be quite worried about the threads essentially welding themselves together over time.

Personally, if I was on a budget, I'd try reusing the original bolts, but otherwise I'd just order a bolt kit from ARP and call it a day.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Not to mention they are like jewelry for the top end of your motor. No downside whatsoever. You guys need to get out more. Use common sense and anti-seize and all is well.

[PunchT37]

I have an engine here with factory bolts on a T2 intake. Been running a looong time with no problems.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

Honest question about using aluminum bolts in an iron head: Is galvanic corrosion a concern? I've seen some pretty dire outcomes when aluminum and steel are used together in other settings. It appears those aluminum bolts are intended for LS engines, which of course have aluminum heads rather than iron as appears to be the case in your GTO. If indeed galvanic corrosion is a concern, I'd be quite worried about the threads essentially welding themselves together over time.

Personally, if I was on a budget, I'd try reusing the original bolts, but otherwise I'd just order a bolt kit from ARP and call it a day.

No different than steel bolts in an aluminum head. Takes a long time for the aluminum to be converted.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by PunchT37

I have an engine here with factory bolts on a T2 intake. Been running a looong time with no problems.

I'm sure, but how do they look and how often do you have to paint them to keep them looking fresh? Aluminum doesn't rust and like I said, looks like jewelry for the top end. I don't see the downside.

[b-man]

What could possibly be wrong with using factory bolts on an aluminum intake ?

The 455 HO and RAIV aluminum intakes used essentially the same bolts as anything else that rolled off the line.

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I'm sure, but how do they look and how often do you have to paint them to keep them looking fresh? Aluminum doesn't rust and like I said, looks like jewelry for the top end. I don't see the downside.

I don’t. The whole motor doesn’t look fresh after 20 years.

[NeighborsComplaint]

See, I get a bit anal about those details. I've tried painting old OEM bolts and they don't look right to me on an aluminum intake plus hey begin rusting the moment your wrench scrapes the paint when tightening them down. ARP are nice bolts but overkill to hold down an aluminum intake and they have only a black oxide coating and rust pretty quickly.

A local builder showed me a BBC and SBC he used these aluminum bolts on and I was sold. He also uses anti-seize to make sure they can be easily removed if needed.

[dataway]

I remember when I was in the military, in the hobby shop (garage) they had drawers of very nice high strength aluminum aircraft bolts. Very strong ... and pre-drilled for wire

I don't know if they were stronger than the average 30,000 psi aluminum bolt ... but they seemed pretty tough. I think standard grade-2 steel is 60,000 psi ?

[tom s]

I just went to West Marine and put a selection of stainless in my drawer IN CASE I thought I needed some bling!Tom

[dataway]

Yep if I wanted some bling I'd opt for flange head stainless bolts ... only about $2 each from McMaster. They polish up like a mirror.

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by dataway

Yep if I wanted some bling I'd opt for flange head stainless bolts ... only about $2 each from McMaster. They polish up like a mirror.

Sounds great! But I've heard McMster-Carr doesn't sell to individuals