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Old 02-08-2022, 08:52 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Default Upper control arm studs?

Got my control arms out today.

Unfortunately I also kinda broke something.

The headers on the passenger side prevented me from getting out the upper arm off the studs.

To be fair to myself, I honestly didn’t realize they were studs. I thought they were just bolts that were more or less rusted in place.

Only after I busted them out with the impact did I notice they were knurled studs. Hopefully I didn’t round out the whole.

The studs have. 2-1/4 reach. Anyone know if there is a shorter one available? Most of the google searches unfortunately don’t have lengths listed. I guess if I install them with the rebuilt control arms they won’t need to come out for another 50 years. Of course I just cursed myself saying that.

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  #2  
Old 02-08-2022, 11:01 PM
gto4ben gto4ben is offline
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Have you looked at wheel studs? They are knurled, come in various lengths, and are sized in SAE and Metric, one of which may work if the hole is larger. You can always cut them shorter if needed too.

  #3  
Old 02-08-2022, 11:08 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Wheel studs were my first thought but when I looked at them I don’t think they will work. Visually their knurled section is a larger diameter than the bolt. The a arm studs are much more uniform in size.

I also thought about cutting but I don’t have band saw. I feel like an abrasive blade would make a mess of it.

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Old 02-09-2022, 12:15 AM
gto4ben gto4ben is offline
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I bought a decade ago a metric version which was perfect and had a more uniform look, similar to this. I wish I could find the part number.
Attached Images
File Type: bmp Whell stud similar to knurled bolt.bmp (263.7 KB, 102 views)

  #5  
Old 02-09-2022, 06:29 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is offline
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I would just use your cutoff wheel and shorten it. Put a nut on first and remove after cutting, so you can make sure your threads are good to start your nut on during assembly. Cutting sometimes messes up the thread making it hard to start. Grind the end flat before you pull your nut off if it looks crooked.
Now that your stud has been removed from it's tight spot, it might want to turn during assembly tightening. You may have to hold a wrench on back side. I had this problem and had to loan a mechanics special Snap On offset wrench for just that.

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Old 02-09-2022, 06:52 PM
JLMounce JLMounce is offline
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You can use a bolt as well on the front side of the mount if you need to. Most aftermarket arms are cut-out in the center, making it possible to use a bolt here instead of the knurled stud.

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Old 02-09-2022, 07:52 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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I’m not using aftermarket arms.

I am definitely highly concerned about having widened the hole. I ordered a set of new normal ones. I think I’m just going to put them in and hope I don’t have to take the arms out again.

Just hopefully they don’t spin so I can get it aligned. I guess I could always tack it in place real quick with the mig welder if they spin.

Anyone know if the torsion bar in the upper control arms are directional? They look identical but are spinning freely and I didn’t make which side was towards the wheel.

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1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455
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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 02-09-2022 at 07:59 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-09-2022, 10:23 PM
gtospieg gtospieg is offline
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I had a loose control arm stud too, it was not a problem. As long as the hole isn't huge you shouldn't have any problems.

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Old 02-11-2022, 02:35 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is offline
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I was going to weld my backside of stud too. Then, I thought if it doesn't hold or breaks loose, now I can't get a wrench on there to hold it either! So, I left it so a wrench has to be put on it. I told the guy who aligned my car as to such also.

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