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#41
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One thing to remember is that early GTO's have a significantly smaller radiator vs. later years. The early core area is roughly 401 square inches and later core is roughly 476 square inches. That's 16% more frontal core area alone.
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#42
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what should the in the hole clearance be ? I am using vacuum advance. It was plugged when i was setting the total timing at 31 "per butler" after setting the total at 31 I plugged in the vacuum. I am using a quadrajet carb.
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#43
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I will get the ac car rubber flaps etc that come on a ac car. keep in mind that i have not used the ac yet, only to test it, because the car runs too hot to dare turn on the ac.
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#44
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I have vacuum advance and it works off of manifold vacuum. total timing was set wtih initial + centrifugal after setting total i connected the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. so i first set the initial timing at say 12 the zero out the timing light and then add 35 degrees advance to the car and then connect the manifold vacuum advance . just trying to understand the process. yes the fans are 2800 cfm each. i do not recall the rubber flaps on the fan shroud but i will check to see. I do plan on going back to the 7 blade clutch fan with the shroud when i get this overheating problem figured out. problem is i am out of things to try. I had another GTO that had factory ac so I am aware of what and how I need to get all the air flow through the radiator and not around it. Even that GTO ran somewhat hot but nothing nothing like this one. I will try the valve at tdc thing to see if my cam timing is where it should be. thanks for all of your suggestions and help. one more thing what about the guy who posted that i needed a water restrictor in the water heater line to slow the flow of hot water back to the water pump inlet??
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#45
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Alan,
At what rpm did you get 35° total? And where did initial end up after setting total? Need to use a piston stop and verify TDC mark on the damper. If its off/slipped, your timing specs don't count. Clay |
#46
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Let me clarify. Just as everyone else who is trying to help with tips regarding timing, divider clearance etc.. I was trying to help too. I’m not saying that the lack of the restrictive heater hose fitting in the head is THE problem but could be a contributing factor to the rising temperature. Whatever is causing the coolant to be 240 in Alan”s case isn’t being helped by a higher volume of already heated coolant (through passenger side of block then head) being returned to the pump (timing cover 3/4” port) which does not go through the radiator but instead gets fed right back into the block again. Alan may even have the OEM fitting in the head for all I know so my “tip” is moot.
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1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be 1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl |
#47
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Quote:
looks like youre getting some good suggestions on this thread & the other one you started, hope you can get it figured out out. a suggestion for you on these threads to keep the questions & answers more efficient & easier to keep track of, is to use the "quote" button when you reply to a specific question. |
#48
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My dad told me, when I was very young, that you can run the heater to help out if your car is overheating in traffic. Might make you a little miserable. You could see if that makes a difference when it's running hot. Might give you an indication of if you are bypassing too much coolant.
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#49
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I take one look and there is a vacuum can just sitting there with no hose, or in some cases they don't even have a vacuum advance can. |
#50
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This discussion has me thinking about heater control valves. This one is cheap. I wonder if it can be used to control flow like a ball valve. Or is it only designed for open or closed.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-84706 |
#51
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I really don't think there is anything there to be found.
I mean if the OP really wanted to test it really quick, just take a pair of channel locks and pinch the heater hose closed and see what difference it makes. I know where my money would be..... If heater core water flow were really an issue, then all my junk here should be overheating |
#52
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#53
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#54
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Having my heater core hooked up to use as a additional small rad has save me at least twice from having a full boil over when a thermostat was sticking!
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I do stuff for reasons. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 25stevem For This Useful Post: | ||
#55
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I was looking at the threaded stem. Thought it might be a double seating plunger or gate that would need to be fully closed or open. It looks like there is a packing nut on it. So should be able to be in the middle.
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#56
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Never had a car withA/C, so no valve.
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I do stuff for reasons. |
#57
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one of these was on my car when i bought it. I thought it was some sort of aftermarket flow restrictor so i took it off. when i was younger us kids would use these to cut off water to the heater to stop heater cores from leaking. could not afford to replace the heater core then.
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#58
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yes i have done this each time i have taken the car out. the temp coming from the heater is well 200 degrees. hot hot hot
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#59
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A cooling system isn't that complicated, and besides the e-fan (and that's a maybe), it sounds like your's is up to the task. I can't understand some of the complicated and McGuyver-esque measures some people take to keep their motors cool, even with the higher horsepower.
I'm with everyone else in that this is probably a tuning issue, and agree 100% that you should use your vacuum advance. If your total timing all in is at 31 and you're not running vac advance, that's a major issue when you are at cruising RPMs. Adding in a vacuum advance is one of the simplest things you can do that will probably either resolve or dramatically improve this issue, and they make pre-calibrated vacuum advance cans or adjustable ones to give you the exact amount of vacuum advance you want, when you want it. Lars Ulrich from the Corvette community even made a table outlining all of the exact specs of the aftermarket vac advance cans so you know exactly which one to buy, since the statically-calibrated ones are usually more reliable than the adjustable ones. Bottom line is, if you're running a street motor, you're leaving many driveability aspects on the table by not using vacuum advance, including engine temp. And I'm betting going back to the stock shroud and upgrading to an HD fan clutch will help your low speed or idle overheating issues. A Cold Case radiator should have been *PLENTY* of radiator to cool your engine. If the above measures don't correct your issue, that's when I'd start suspecting internal build problems such as cam timing, a cavernous piston quench, or maybe compromised cooling pressure. Who built your engine? And do they have experience with Pontiacs? Did you personally witness or oversee them putting in the water pump? I'm aware that the divider plate situation with the pre 1969 engines is a little more complicated than like on an 11-bolt. I can see how somebody inexperienced with Ponchos may mess up on that.
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop
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#60
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