[BILTIT]

The main thing i like about ladders/coilover is the adjustable ride height. Thats a huge plus for me. The main thing i like about leafs is that i already have them, can make my own cal-tracs, would just need to buy good shocks. I am torn.



I might lean towards ladders from these guys:

http://autoweldchassis.com/lb.ivnu

I like the prostreet version that has a bushing in the front, would be much more street friendly i think. Price seems good too. I may call them tomorrow and double check pricing etc.

[ponjohn]

Some nice stuff, if you're going to do it I would spend the extra money for double adjustable.

[BILTIT]

Yup, definatly going double adjustable.

[BILTIT]

Well, now i have switched back to the leaf/caltrac setup. Mostly budget is pushing this. Looks like i am getting a set of sliders for free, bonus! I am going to relocate the front and rear mounts, i may make my own tubs, found a guy who is willing to walk me through it. He makes his own all the time. Also found a set of tubs that are much cheaper than the DSE but i need to phone to see if they would work or not.

http://autoweldchassis.com/univ.ivnu
scroll down, ''exact shape mini tubs'' $119USD

Most cost will be for shocks and any materials for fabbing mounts etc.

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

Well, now i have switched back to the leaf/caltrac setup. Mostly budget is pushing this. Looks like i am getting a set of sliders for free, bonus! I am going to relocate the front and rear mounts, i may make my own tubs, found a guy who is willing to walk me through it. He makes his own all the time. Also found a set of tubs that are much cheaper than the DSE but i need to phone to see if they would work or not.

http://autoweldchassis.com/univ.ivnu
scroll down, ''exact shape mini tubs'' $119USD

Most cost will be for shocks and any materials for fabbing mounts etc.

Had I known of those, I probably would have gone that route with mine. It would take less time to complete the job. That and the fit/finish seems to turn out nicer, especially when you compare what I did to the Ventura vs the "exact shape" tubs in my mustang to tuck a 31" tire.

[BILTIT]

I have emailed them about the tubs, from what i have gathered its the outer part of the well that needs to be maximized. The inner side can be done with any tub but the outer is where the last few inches are.

Correct me if im wrong.

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

I have emailed them about the tubs, from what i have gathered its the outer part of the well that needs to be maximized. The inner side can be done with any tub but the outer is where the last few inches are.

Correct me if im wrong.

That is correct, maximum would include the quarter panel making up the outer part of the wheel tub. There is 3-4" of wasted space between the stock tub and quarter panels.

[ponjohn]

7211- your car looks HOT in that picture. Absolutely love the chute!!!!

Is that a 315 tire in that photo?

I hear ya, budget is kaboshing how quick I can get stuff done.

[BILTIT]

One tip i found on the autoweldchassis site.

"#29 After tub is in place, check to
make sure you have at least 1/8" gap
between the tub and the quarter panel all
the way around. (DO NOT WELD TUB TO
QUARTER PANEL)!!!!! Use only silicone
sealer to seal gap. The reason is,
as the car flexes, it will pull on
tacks and you will see every tack weld
in the paint job after a time.
Silicone sealer is the best way because
it also acts as a cushion between
the two. This is why you need a slight
gap to start. You may have to take
the tub in and out a few times to
get the desired gap. After the tubs are
fitted, remove them and set them to
the side, and get ready for sheet
metal work."

[ponjohn]

You don't need sliders.

The only reason you would need them is IF you running leaf springs and ladder bars. The front eye of the leaf and the front mounting location of the ladder creates to different radius. The sliders then allow the rear to move within the confines of the two different radius.

[BILTIT]

Rear leaf eye sliders not housing sliders.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Guys are using them with leafs/caltracs. They say it keeps the leaf spring rate constant VS non-constant with a shackle. They claim better 60fts because of it.

Many on dragstuff.com run them.

I may buy CCE weld in subframes or just convert mine. The weldins have the front leaf location mount inboard of the frame already. Make a perch in the rear for the sliders and springs are moved plenty far.

[ponjohn]

Ahhhh, yes yes, my confusion.

I have read the same thing with rear sliders.

John

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

7211- your car looks HOT in that picture. Absolutely love the chute!!!!

Is that a 315 tire in that photo?

I hear ya, budget is kaboshing how quick I can get stuff done.

Thank You.

Yes that is a 315/60/15 MT Radial on a 10" wheel, I need to work on my top shock mount and the position of my coils as the backbrace forced me to relocate the bottom of the shocks, so its sitting 2" too high right now.

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by BILTIT

One tip i found on the autoweldchassis site.

"#29 After tub is in place, check to
make sure you have at least 1/8" gap
between the tub and the quarter panel all
the way around. (DO NOT WELD TUB TO
QUARTER PANEL)!!!!! Use only silicone
sealer to seal gap. The reason is,
as the car flexes, it will pull on
tacks and you will see every tack weld
in the paint job after a time.
Silicone sealer is the best way because
it also acts as a cushion between
the two. This is why you need a slight
gap to start. You may have to take
the tub in and out a few times to
get the desired gap. After the tubs are
fitted, remove them and set them to
the side, and get ready for sheet
metal work."

That is a good tip, you definitely want to to seal it all up, otherwise you'll have smoke in the cabin and pouring out from around the quarter windows after a burnout.

You can buy a large tube of seam sealer at a hardware store. You can use a caulking gun, which makes it just like caulking around a bath tub or something, lol. Its cheaper then buying the small tubes at an autoparts store as well.

HTH

[BILTIT]

Here is autoweldchassis response to my email.

"Yes we do make them for the 68-78 Novas. They are plenty wide to put about any tire under the car. If you have diameter problems ...then you might want to use the full tubs, Thanks"

I think for the price i will order a set and check them out. I will post pics when i get them.

[greggutknecht]

On my car im going with the caltracs and sliders,also went with the DSE inner housings.Fabbing my own front spring pockets and connectors as well as installing a 12 point cage with funny car cage to make it legal for 7.50s,its going to be one nasty bitch.Greg

[ponjohn]

Originally Posted by greggutknecht

On my car im going with the caltracs and sliders,also went with the DSE inner housings.Fabbing my own front spring pockets and connectors as well as installing a 12 point cage with funny car cage to make it legal for 7.50s,its going to be one nasty bitch.Greg

Pictures?

[greggutknecht]

Hopefuly i will have some pics of some progress in a week or so.I already have the tubs in the car and the front subframe has been lightened up.I cant wait to get the motor set in place,it should look pretty awsome.Greg

[ventura7211]

Originally Posted by greggutknecht

Hopefuly i will have some pics of some progress in a week or so.I already have the tubs in the car and the front subframe has been lightened up.I cant wait to get the motor set in place,it should look pretty awsome.Greg

Keep us updated, I LOVE build threads.

[BILTIT]

Might have picked up some Single adjustable front QA-1's with 350LB springs, fingers crossed!