[76TA462]

I have a Powermaster ministarter pn 9610 on my 76 TA. Been on about 4500 miles but more than six years ago and very close to long tube headers for most of that, with shielding. Currently have short tube, so going forward okay on the heat front. Starting late last summer, randomly, not a lot, but increasingly the starter would just loud click with first try and sometimes also with second try, and after that fire up really good and quick. Sometimes is is okay, but is getting worse. I have good gauge wire from the battery and also good gauge to ground. Does this sound like a starter problem, or could it be in the steering column. Thanks.

[johnta1]

No remote relay for starter?
(in engine compartment)


I'd say off-hand that it could be the ignition switch on column.
The contacts are probably getting arc spots, so sometimes it makes good contact and sometimes not.

[76TA462]

Thanks. No remote relays. I've done lots of home garage stuff over the years but never into the steering column. Can I go via they ring on the side where the key goes, or will I need to remove the steering wheel etc. to get to the wires to check and clean a bit.

[transam greg]

If the starter is clicking then it's getting power. I would pull it out and open it up.
Look for crud build up on the contacts, clean it up, rebuild and reinstall. If you have
a spare starter you can put it in to rule out the ing. switch.

TA Greg

[george kujanski]

Agree...if the starter solenoid clicks, the ign sw is doing it's job. I'd say poor battery/cable connection or starter solenoid.

George

[76TA462]

Thanks, I'll pull the starter. Connections solid and clean. Did have some heat issues when I had the long tubes. Will sort out and now with shorties hopefully will be good to go.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Should you ever need to work on the ignition switch...It's bolted on the steering column under the dash. Lock and tumbler is under the steering wheel. A gear drive works a rod going down to the switch.

If the cables are part store pieces...Need to make sure they're tight and making good connection in the terminals on both ends. Looks good doesn't mean it is good.

Clay

[johnta1]

Could be the solenoid on starter, but this is a mini-starter. Hardly ever saw a problem with them?

The ignition switch is on column as said. Drop it down and you can get to it easy. (on 70 Firebird anyway )

Being a cheap@ss, I always took them apart. Easy to see if it was a problem.

Not sure how or if you can find one to replace the solenoid on the starter.
(without buying a new starter)

[tstroud]

The contacts are easily replaceable in the solenoid if you can find replacement parts. There are 2 contacts and a disc on the plunger and they wear out frequently. I've replaced a lot of them and fixed the starter for only a couple bucks. Go to a good auto parts store and have them look in the "standard motor parts" catalog.


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[johnta1]

For the mini-starter?

I know the Delco (GM) solenoids are easy.

[tstroud]

Yes. The mini starter.
Take the 3 screws out of the solenoid cover, remove the plunger and you will see the contacts. It will be obvious how to remove them once you see them.
The starters last a long time but the contacts wear out quickly.


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[johnta1]

Cool!


I guess taking it apart would be obvious also to see if it's the problem?
(maybe easier than dropping the steering column 1st)

[Sirrotica]

No one even mentioned fixing the GM starter (which the OP isn't even using, mini starter) for free by flipping the solenoid disc over and using the other side? Not earning the tight fisted award without that tidbit.

OP, time to break out the VOM and do a voltage test to find out where the problem is. You can have 100 guesses about where the problem is, but the VOM will tell you exactly where it is without spending time or money chasing down guesses. Fixing the problem the first time requires a little detective work.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Cool!

Cool would've been posting what make/brand strarter parts work in one of these. When you've done a lot it should be remembered or written down.

Can't look it up in a parts catalog without knowing original app for the parts.
Buyers guide has lots of pics that look the same but don't interchange.

Companies like Nissan used two different suppliers for the same engine depending on final destination of the vehicle. Gear reduction for cold climates and direct drive for warmer climates. Starter company names would be something like Bosh(?) or Denso(?).

Clay

[tstroud]

Isn’t it a power master 9610?
I left that career 20 years ago. My memory isn’t THAT good.

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