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#1
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ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN PURCHASED BRACKETS TO MOUNT AN ELEC. FAN TO A ALUMINUM RADIATOR
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#2
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ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN PURCHASED BRACKETS TO MOUNT AN ELEC. FAN TO A ALUMINUM RADIATOR
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#3
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I made mine, I bought cheap alum pieces from Home Depot and custom made brackets and used rubber from old inner tubes to insulate the rad. brackets. Now I need a make a filler piece that covers it all, my org. does not fit correctly. I hope this helps.
http://members.cardomain.com/ironinjun68 |
#4
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If you are not good at fabricating things or just have to have something more trick or more convenient, then Be Cool has brackets. They are very nice and clean looking, but they will want your first born child for the brackets. Kidding aside, they are very expensive for what you get. Summit cares them, as does Jegs. I personally just made mine from some aluminum I bought from metal shop. They can bend and cut them for an extra fee, but nowhere near Be Cools cost. Good luck in whatever you do.
Patrick |
#5
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Turbo 400,
I'd be interested in what you're installing and if there's an improvement. I just spent a bunch of money and spent over a week installing a custom Griffin 2 core/ 1 1/2" alum rad with a Spal electric fan and found myself running HOTTER in city traffic than with my old 4 core Harrison. Pulled the whole thing and put back the Harrison. I hope your experience goes better. As for the mounting hardware I used the universal kit from Spal. Worked well on their fan, don't know about someone else's. Good luck, Bob G. |
#6
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How big is that Spal fan and how much air does it pull? Sounds like twin fans would have solved the problem.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
#7
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My radiator is finished and waiting to be picked up. Went with a full width (34X19) with 2 rows of 1.25 tubes and a custom shroud that mounts 2 of the big Spal fans. These fans are rated at 2360 cfm each. There are 3 or 4 different 16" Spal fans, (different blades, motors, etc) so you need a model number to see what the flow is. As a backup, Im plumbing in a 13.75" X 7.6" Earls stacked plate oil cooler. Get as much heat out of the engine as fast as possible.
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#8
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I used a straight blade 16" Spal that pulls 2360CFM. BeCool uses the same fan for motors up to 400hp then switches to the dual 11" fan setup for up to 700hp with a guaranteed 20 degree drop! Based on their setup I expected mine to work and work well, especially with two rows of 1 1/2" tubeswhile they use 1".
I spoke to a tech at BeCool (extremely knowledgable) that said my problem was that a radiator that big needed a LARGE amount of coolant circulation. It was made for Hendricks Motor Sports by Griffin. I don't know if they put it in their NASCAR cars or not. I do know that highway speeds I'd drop 30 degrees below normal, around 170 or so, but the minute I hit city stop & go it went straight up. Bob G. |
#9
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If it works at highway speeds, but doesn't during "stop and go" the likely culprit is the fan is not pulling enough air through it.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
#10
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I just finished getting my Poncho cooled off and here is what did and did not work. - 67 Tempest with a 67 GTO (400 cu in) motor making about 425 horses. I had the same problem mentioned (OK going fast skyrockets at idle and slow speeds)
1 - New thermostat (165) - no help 2 - New electric fan 16" (1800 cfm) - no help 3 - New radiator (BeCool aluminum) - no help 4 - Smaller water pump pulley (6.5 in) - no help 5 - New FlowKooler water pump - no help 6 - New electric fan (BeCool dual 11 in) - COOL!!! The BeCool fan did the trick - drops the temp to 160 about 1 minute after it kicks on. It also comes with a nice shroud that I think helps alot. I wasn't cheap ($280) and about $120 for the mounting brackets. I had to do some modification to get it to fit right, but the final installation looks great and very custom. I did get alot of good tips from this board during the process too - thanks guys! |
#11
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Its all about airflow. Dual 16's and big tubes.
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#12
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Well Guys that's interesting. Brian I guess airflow was my problem because I've done everything Brad did except the dual 11" fans. I don't understand how BeCool guarantees a 20 degree drop with the same fan I have unless they don't mind a lot of returns. Oh well, that's their problem
Tom the dual 16" setup is beautiful. It's the same fan I have (only I've got just one ). Who made the shroud ? My only concern is that I've got an oil cooler along the left tank and am wondering if that would pose a problem? Thanks again, Bob G. |
#13
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This is a Ron Davis radiator www.rondavisradiators.com. They are local and whenever possible I prefer to use local vendors. Dont know if the shroud is available seperately, and if it is Im not sure how you would mount it. I know Rodney Red also has an aluminum shroud for dual fans too. And there are several offered in Summit and Jegs last I looked.
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#14
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Thank you.
Bob G. |
#15
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WOW, Mcqueen, that rad looks nice.
I could not find the price of it on the site. If you do not mind me asking, what did that cost? Did that come with the thermo controller for the fans? And two 1.25 rows is huge, and probably overkill with dual spals. But Hell, thats what muscle cars are all about. Lookin like a cool summer for you 69 GTO Convertible (Future Twin Turbo) 87 GN
__________________
69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs 462ci, 606tq/569hp - 93 oct at 34 deg (207psi) 11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Int & Rails, PTC 10" 0 Stat, Ricks SS Gas Tank, Magna 4303, Aerom EFI Reg, Aero Front & Wilwood Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" Headers & Borla Pro XS 3" Muffs, Alum Rad & Dual Fans, 12:1 Box, UMI Control Arms & Viking Berz Fr + Rear CO Shocks, Hella UP28 Vac Pump |
#16
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Radiator, shroud and fans were just under a grand (not counting tax). You will need a thermostat control switch with a relay setup (not included in that price). Ron Davis, Painless, Perma-coll all offer these. On my setup one fan will be turned on and off by a thermostat. The other fan runs when the Vintage Air AC system is on and pulls air thru the condenser and radiator. Assuming I get the wiring done right.
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#17
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Tom,
Didn't realize you haven't completed installing your rad. I hope you/ve got a heavy duty alternator installed. I only had my alum rad installed for 2 days and it was enough to blow out some diodes in mine and that was only with ONE of those 16" Spal's. They draw a LOT of amps. Hope you've got that covered. Good luck. It's a great looking setup. Bob G. |
#18
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Sure do. With 2 of these fans, a big electric EFI fuel pump, AC, upgraded Hella headlights, MSD box(s), EFI computer and a stereo to power I knew the charging system would be worked hard. I have one of Powermasters 200 amp XS-volt alternators. This thing can output 120 amps at IDLE, and increases to the 200 amp mark around 2800 engine rpm (with a 3:1 crank to alternator pulley ratio). You will need a minimum of #4 charging line to carry this amount of current for any length of time.
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#19
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Tom,
That's a NICE setup ! Sounds like you've done everything first class. Best of luck with it ! I'd be interested in hearing what you've chosen for stereo gear. I haven't gotten to that yet & won't until the car's finished but with roughly 1200 CD's I want a good setup to enjoy them. Best of luck, Bob G. |
#20
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I want one of these for my 65 Goat...who do I call?... RG, now who would but a stereo in a Muscle car anyway?... http://www.dannys65gto.com http://kurtspontiac.homestead.com/dannys65gto.html [This message was edited by Goathead on May 11, 2003 at 04:59 PM.]
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