[Bob Moore]

body

[HALFWAY]

Mine is finished or is it?

I a planning on dual exhausts but the single exhaust only has about 5K on it. Looking for a tach either a console mount (too expensive so far) or a Moon Eyes (I just like them for some reason) and my buddy works at a window tinting company and I would like to get the windows tinted. I am moving to Florida, hopefully soon need to sell the house first, so I think I will get the tinting first.

[Pecosbill]

Halfway, go ahead with that dual exhaust now. You can use the existing muffler and tailpipe on one side and you'll just have to add the exhaust pipes, one muffler, one tailpipe and the hangers. I had a 64 Lemans (326) and when I converted from single to duals my gas mileage increased 2 mpg, not to mention about a 5 to 10% pickup in hp. Do it now before the existing one rusts onto the muffler and you can't remove it without damaging the muffler.

[bdk1976]

Here is a picture of my recently acquired LeMans.



It's an original Iris Mist car (it has been repainted in a Saturn color according to previous owner) with a black interior. It is a project car that the previous owner didn't complete - '66 326 with headers, edelbrock performer intake, Turbo 400 with B&M shifter. I have since added an edelbrock 1406 carb and fired her up - sounds good through the dual exhaust. Front end has a fresh rebuild, and has been converted to front disks.

I am currently working on finishing the repaint of the dash - figured I'd better do it now before I put the windshield back in. I still need to get the glass back in and front clip on, and go through the brakes. Hopefully I'll get her on the road before too long.

Future plans (other than putting everything back together) involve swapping out the 2.56 open rear for a 3.23 (open) rear.

-Brett

[petesake]

Here is my project. Too long of a list. It will be coming completely apart and then back together when my garage is completed. I am still in need of a passenger door power window regulator if anyone has one.

Thanks
Peter

[HALFWAY]

Pecos, Since I am moving to Florida and my buddy works in KC I think I will get the windows tinted for the Florida first. Then when I get to Florida, get the dual exhaust and maybe a tach after that. I didn't know that the dual exhaust will increase the MPG of a car??? I knew the HP would go up a little. Of course with this setup the MPG may not be an issue.

[Pecosbill]

Absolutely the duals will help the mpg. Remember, "gettin' it in is only half the game; gettin' it out is the other half"! With a tripower setup you're crammin' it in, but you've got enormous backpressure that you need to get out. You will notice a great benefit in hp, mpg and, of course, that wonderful sound.

Also, my goat's got a set of Edelbrock valve covers that I'm thinking about replacing...they sure would look good on that engine of yours with the trips.

[supergimp]

Not that I have a tripower or anything, but I added a complete Pypes dual system to my 326 Le Mans and she ran like a new car. I basically upgraded because I had to (the single stock exhaust was shot) and thought I would go with Pypes. I couldn't be happier.

[lil64gto]

Mark,

For about $300 you can put a dual 2.5" mandrel bent system on your car. That is all that it cost me when I did my exhaust on project. Flowmaster 'H' pipe, Dynomax 14" Super Turbo's, and two 'J' pipes. Stayed with the stock exhaust manifolds and adapted the 'J' pipe to them. If I ever decide to put on headers, I have a system that will bolt up to them.

[HALFWAY]

Once I get to Florida, that will most likely be my next project. Thanks for the advice on the system, I have been looking at different types. I don't have headers on it now and I am not sure I will but I do want dual exhausts eventually. I don't race it at all and only kick in the tripower when I need to pass quickly or just get the itch to hear them growl.

[ratfink65]

heres a pic of my 65 in the paint booth
1965 gto
charcoal blue
4spd m21
12 bolt 3.90 gear
hotchkis suspension

[b-man]

Here's my current project, a '64 Lemans convertible. Originally painted Saddle Bronze with a Saddle top and interior. Factory A/C and power windows. Had a 326 2-barrel/2-speed auto, now powered by a '64 GTO 79J 4-barrel engine and matching 2-speed.







I like fender skirts.

[rudytadow]

I was considering how I was going to tackle painting my engine compartment without pulling the radiator or motor. My engine compartment is among the first pics in this discussion page. Do any of you have pointers, tricks, suggestions on the best way to go about doing this/ I have already used 2 gallons of Greased Lighting cleaning up and well, it still looks dirty. Is there anything else I can use safely (no sandblasting) to strip away chipped paint? Can I paint the Edelbrock intake even though its aluminum? I have heard aluminum intakes trap heat more than Iron. Is that true?
Thanks.
Rudy

[elefantrider]

Rudy,
Sure you can paint an aluminum intake. I've done a few.... Here's a photo of one i did about 5 years ago (a little dusty). I used good quality car paint that i had left over. Probably overkill but i used self-etching primer and ditzler enamel. We wanted a stock looking engine. Notice that edelbrock has been grinded off.


Try to avoid stripping paint and repainting the entire engine compartment, especially if the paint sticks well. It's amazing the type of results you can acheive by touching up chips, color sanding and a little rubbing compound.

[rudytadow]

elefantrider,
Thank you for both your response and your pic. I like the idea about grinding off the name. Short of pulling off the intake, how else can I grind off? Would a heavy duty file work? Also, what grit of sandpaper would you suggest I use? What is color sanding?
Rudy

[elefantrider]

I used an air tool with a carbide bit. Same stuff they use to port manifolds and heads. I wouldn't want to imagine using a file to do the same job, but i guess it would work.

Color sanding refers to using different grades of fine to superfine wet sandpaper to achieve a finish.... Most all quality paintjobs require wet sanding after application of the final coat. In your case, you'd be using it to blend the touchup paint with the existing paint. elefantrider

[Pecosbill]

Put on the bumpers, grills & tail lights today. Still wet sanding and buffing, but hope to bring it home soon.

[rudytadow]

elefantrider,
Please tell me how you would suggest color sanding the engine compartment. My worst areas would be the inside fender wells, the front inside cowel - where the nose where the front of rood rests on and the top of radiator. I would be using spray paint so what sheen of paint would I use for these areas in addition to the harmonic balancer, water pump, power steering pump pulleys? A gloss,semi gloss or flat black? For the wet color sanding, how do I so this? When you get the time, I would like your experienced suggestions.
Thanks a lot.
Rudy

[rudytadow]

elefantrider,
Sorry about being in a rush to write the previous request. That's what I get without proof reading, punctuation and clerical mistakes. Here is at least one correct word for the one mispelled: hood (not rood). Also, the pulleys will be a seperate paint project if and when I paint the motor so, its not as crucial right now as the interior surroundings of the engine compartment itself. I thought since black paint was being covered, you might have an idea. Have a nice day.
Rudy

[elefantrider]

Rudy,

No prob. about the typos, it's the message that counts.

I don't have much experience with spray can paint, although i understand it has improved a lot within the last 10 years. Engine compartment paint was a semi-gloss or "60 degree" semi flat, i cannot remember which.

As for the sanding, I was referring to blending the touchup paint used to fill in chips with your existing paint, not re-doing your entire engine compartment. If it seems you've got more chips than good paint, just respray it.... but there's probably no need to strip it.... you can fill in chips with primer instead and sand.

You'll just have to do some experimentation in some inconspicuous places to see which works best. For eng. compartment paint and chips, i suppose you can start with 600 grit wet (with water) and move higher from there. But, judging from the photos you posted on your for sale advertisement, you've got larger issues to handle first(like frame repair or a new frame).

That's unfortunate about the frame because the rest of the car looks nice, particularly the interior with AC!

Good luck with painting and selling your car, if that's what you decide to do.