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#1
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This has probably been discussed before but I seem to hear conflicting opinions. I would like to know what is best for a drag race engine (looser clearances than street engine). Synthetics are advertised as having better heat dissapation and viscosity characteristics. Most synthetics I see have multi-viscosity specifications like Mobil 1 (15W-50). I have used Mobil 1 in all my street vehicles with excellent results. I did use it in a hydraulic cam street/strip motor and noticed a decrease in operating temperature and about a 5 to 7 pound drop in oil pressure.
What do most people use in a typical roller cam drag engine? What do "professional" class racers use (Pro Stock, etc....) |
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#2
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This has probably been discussed before but I seem to hear conflicting opinions. I would like to know what is best for a drag race engine (looser clearances than street engine). Synthetics are advertised as having better heat dissapation and viscosity characteristics. Most synthetics I see have multi-viscosity specifications like Mobil 1 (15W-50). I have used Mobil 1 in all my street vehicles with excellent results. I did use it in a hydraulic cam street/strip motor and noticed a decrease in operating temperature and about a 5 to 7 pound drop in oil pressure.
What do most people use in a typical roller cam drag engine? What do "professional" class racers use (Pro Stock, etc....) |
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#3
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I use Mobil 1 15 or 20W-50. I may try something a little bit less viscous later on. Pro Stocks all use synthetic.
The main advantage of using synthetics is you can use a thinner oil and get the same amount of protection due to the synthetics' ability to resist breaking down with heat and pressure like "regular" oil. Causin' pain like two bad nurses..... |
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#4
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We have had this debate in the bench racing sessions at the track. Some have claimed dyno results of 10 horse power using Mobil 1 over a parifin base motor oil. I use the Castrol Syntec which is a blend. I have never had to replace any bearings in 5 race seasons. I did replace the bearings once but they did not need it. The guys with the big inch Mopars and Chevys seem to like full synthetics best. That is from our track's bench racers.
fasteddy
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fasteddy |
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#5
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I too have noticed the synthetic blends. I also noticed that just about everyone has a 20 to 30 weight spread on the viscosity rating for synthetics. I suspect that is because of the nature of synthetics and not due to oil additives used in conventional oils to create a multi-viscosity rating for cold weather starts.
I question whether using the synthetic blends will give you the full advantage of a full synthetic oil. Does anyone make a synthetic with oil with a straight viscosity rating or "narrower" spread? What about some of these "specialty" oils advertised for drag engines (Red Line, Royal Purple). Red Line sells what they call a synthetic racing oil in straight weights, however I wonder how different the oil really is from 20W to 50W (or is this just a packaging gimmick). |
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#6
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I have had 3 diff pontiac engines on a dyno where we have seen a 5 HP gain with JUST a oil change to Mobil 1.I talked to a friend at Penski south and the break their Nascar motors in and run Mobli 1.
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#7
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Check this out from the PRO Edelbrock board-http://www.fasteststreetcar.com/wwwboard/messages/7803.html Would like to know myself on this one. I was told by a local engine builder that he has seen more wear on flat tappet style cams due to the oil not having enough grip to spin the lifters to keep from them wearing.- is this myth or truth?? He stated that it was good for roller cammed engine but not for the flat tappet style. Anyone have any experience on this?
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65 GTO, Tiger Gold, Nostalgia Super Stock 421, 2-Carter AFB carbs, Stock Suspension, 3550lbs Full Exhaust-- 9.70's@135 66 GTO (Retired race car) 421 CID Multiple NSCA/NMCA World Champion 66 GTO 389 3x2, 4 speed, 3.90 gear, Montero Red 33K original Miles 67 GTO 2dr Post, 428, Tri Power, 3.55 Gears 80 Trans Am Black SE Y84 W72 WS6 |
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#8
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I have used Mobil 1 15/50 for the past 7 years in all my roller cammed 455 race engines making about 650 HP. Never had an oiling or bearing problem. I usually change the oil and FRAM HP2 filter every 30 - 35 passes.
73 Firebird 455 D-Port, 3250 lbs. Best ET: 9.93 @ 133 mph with a 1.318 60'
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1978 Pontiac Grand LeMans.......out next year Previous - 2001 Jerry Haas-built P/S Grand Am - former WJ car, Hoffman Racing 535" IA2, Tiger Heads/Intake, Single Dominator, PG Best ET: 7.776 @ 175.94, 1.096 60', 2375 lbs. |
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#9
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I've just started to use Red line oil this year & so far no problems. The oil is green instead of brown.
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#10
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On my first 455 I did the break in with 10w-30 after that I switched to Phillips 66 100% Synthetic 5w-50 The biggest advantages I saw were extended oil change intervals, and the increased temperature operating range of a synthetic. Another very cool point was the fact that after 40,000 miles I tore the engine down (Due to an intake valve failure, Bad valve guides, long story) the interior of the block was spotless. The bearings were almost perfect, only slight scoring from the valve failure. This motor had made approx. 300 passes down the 1/8 mile, at 3830 lbs running mid 8 second passes, 3.08 gear, and the rest of the miles on it were fairly hard street driving (Cant let the mustangs talk too much trash). I was very impressed with the performance of the oil. 20 psi of oil pressure hot idling, and about 52 psi crusing on the interstate. The one single disadvantage I have found with synthetic oils is that if you have even the slightest chance of a gasket or seal leaking the synthetic will wick through and leak. If your motor is nice ant tight though, it is well worth the investment in my book.
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#11
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So far so good on my admittedly new 467" street/race engine. It was first fired and dynoed on 5W30 Mobil 1 and that's what I'm still running. I use and recommend the 51049 WIX "1 quart" oil filter.
I tore the valve train down after the dyno runs (to upgrade to HS rockers). The cam, lifters and everything else I could see looked flawless. I figure that since Mobil 1 is factory fill on LS1's and many so called "exotics", that it's good enough for my Pontiac. We used a Melling RA IV 60 PSI pump, and my oil pressure is 25 PSI at idle and 65+ PSI at 3000 RPM when the coolant temp is around 200 degrees. Lloyd '72 Formula 455 - TH400, A/C, Y99 suspension, tach & gauges, AM-FM stereo, 8-track, Formula steering wheel, etc.; Lucerne Blue with Medium Blue deluxe Interior Someday I'll be restoring a '72 GTO 455HO, TH400, A/C, etc.; Sundance Orange with Parchment buckets
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Regards, "455HO" Lloyd 2008 GMC Sierra Denali 2WD Crew, L92 6L80E, Silver w/ Ebony guts, 14.26 @ 98 |
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#12
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I use mobile one 0w-30 synthetic in my street strip 455 with hyd. cam with no probs. picked up
a little ET over 10w 30.. |
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#13
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Weak, I have been looking for someone who has tried the 0W on their motor.
What kind of oil pressures are you seeing? What are your tolerances? How high do you spin the motor? Causin' pain like two bad nurses..... |
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#14
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Goatman,
I have used nothing but syn oil in my race- car...But I used regular oil for the breakin.. Then change to syn after 15-20 passes...I have tried 0/30,5/30,10/30,10/40 Syn oils with very little difference between them..But their was a full tenth over regular oil...Oil pressure was at 30-40 at idle and 60-70 under a load...The one disadvantage is small leaks???? You can eat off of my motor,bearings look great after 300/400 passes...I won't use anything but Syn,I use it in my New Suburban,wifes Toyota it's worth 1 1/2 mpg too....So it saves you money in many ways...Hope this helps.... Dave...1033/stock |
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#15
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goatman, oil pressure when warm 40-45 @ idle, cruising its 60. clearances are rods .009 crank is
a 10/20 turned with .002-.003.motor has seen 7200 once during a burnout, rev limiter was left turned off, normal shift points were 57-5900.set up mainly for 1/8 mile but would tach low to mid 6's thru the traps in the 1/4, so it has seen some rpm. no leaks, no ticks, just a good running very mild motor that is almost 6 years old. |
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#16
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make that .0009 instead of .009 on the rods.
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