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  #1  
Old 12-18-2003, 05:31 AM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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I nicked up one of my cam bearings sliding the old cam. I have the motor pulled and on a stand and called the local machine shop to get a quote on putting in a new set.

Price is good, but they want me to totally strip the block, (pistons, rods, crank). Is this really required? I would rather not since then I am looking at a rebiuld, (and the cost) and if thats the case I would rather find a 455 to build.

Anyone had this done?

Can I just get the cam bearing tool and do it myself?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Trumpeter

74 Trans Am
89 Mustang GT CP

  #2  
Old 12-18-2003, 05:31 AM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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I nicked up one of my cam bearings sliding the old cam. I have the motor pulled and on a stand and called the local machine shop to get a quote on putting in a new set.

Price is good, but they want me to totally strip the block, (pistons, rods, crank). Is this really required? I would rather not since then I am looking at a rebiuld, (and the cost) and if thats the case I would rather find a 455 to build.

Anyone had this done?

Can I just get the cam bearing tool and do it myself?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Trumpeter

74 Trans Am
89 Mustang GT CP

  #3  
Old 12-18-2003, 06:00 AM
Dick Duclow Dick Duclow is offline
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With patience, you can sneek the bearing in with the block assembled. Where are you located?

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Old 12-18-2003, 06:51 AM
gotpontiac gotpontiac is offline
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I had my 400 done with only the crank removed,had to get the crank turned and new cam bearings installed,the price was the same assembled or disassembled.

Greg

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  #5  
Old 12-18-2003, 09:00 AM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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I am located in Central Illinois.

The block does have the heads removed. I thought since Pontiac blocks have the valley cover, there was enough room to access the bearings.

Trumpeter

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89 Mustang GT CP

  #6  
Old 12-18-2003, 11:53 AM
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They must be worried about crud getting in things from removing and installing the bearings. The worse area would be shavings from the bearings that are scraped off and lodge in the oil galleries. This would be hard to eliminate. Since oil comes from the crank journal to the cam bearing, it might be possible to flush it by spinning the oil pump with a drill the same as when you pre-lube the engine, but you still wouldn't be positive about complete removal. A piece could come back up later and block the small feed hole in the cam bearing.

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  #7  
Old 12-18-2003, 04:17 PM
Shadowjack Shadowjack is offline
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I bought the cam installer tool and put my own bearings in the last time I rebuilt an engine. The reason they want you to strip the block is that no matter what it looks like, you really can't hold the bearing from the top. You need the crank out of the way to get in there.

  #8  
Old 12-18-2003, 04:34 PM
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Old Man Taylor Old Man Taylor is offline
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"In the olden days" I successfully changed out the front 4 cam bearings with the engine assembled and in the car. Just be careful that you don't drop one of the old ones into the pan. With the engine on a stand it should not be a problem. Just make sure the oil holes are lined up.

http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html


  #9  
Old 12-18-2003, 06:05 PM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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I think I'll buy the tool and give it a try. If I screw it up, I'm still in the same boat I am now, except then maybe I have the reason for the 455...

Thanks for the help guys!

Trumpeter

74 Trans Am
89 Mustang GT CP

  #10  
Old 12-18-2003, 06:10 PM
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PONTIAC DUDE PONTIAC DUDE is offline
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At least if ya screw up one of the new bearings you still got 4 more in the pack to try.

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  #11  
Old 12-18-2003, 07:00 PM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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Thanks Dude. BTW I love your website, especially the Dudescoop! Might have to get one if I ever get my TA put back together...

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  #12  
Old 12-18-2003, 07:16 PM
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Thanks.

Just finishing up on installing the Dude Scoop on any 70-81 TA style hood.
Using Karen's 79 T/A car an article with pics.

A Dude Scoop, A flat sheet of aluminum and a 11" K & N Extreme Lid inside as a filter. Should be up and running by Monday with pics.



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  #13  
Old 12-20-2003, 08:20 AM
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Robert Williams Robert Williams is offline
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Dude, on that flat sheet of Aluminum, if everything fits fine and you make a template of it then i would like one. I take it you are mounting the scoop to the hood? Let us know as i have 2 of your scoops and this way i won't have to make one. I will buy one from you, thanks.

Robert Williams

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  #14  
Old 12-20-2003, 03:13 PM
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Half-Inch Stud Half-Inch Stud is offline
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Remove the high shots from the knicked cam bearing and try aclose visual inspection. Decide that the cam does not laod the cam bearings anywhere near the load of a rod bearing, and the rod bearing is the similar size with less oil.
scratches in cam bearings happen.

Feel better that the cam spins free, without binding, and know that the cam bearings were not honed for such free-spin. And you will probably be OK with the situation of scratched bearing surface.

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11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs
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  #15  
Old 12-21-2003, 05:37 AM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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It's more than a scratch. I knocked a V-shaped section out...

Trumpeter

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89 Mustang GT CP

  #16  
Old 12-23-2003, 07:40 PM
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Well, If the V-knockout is nearly on the topside, then no matter.

If the v-knock scratch is on the load side (towards crank gear), then you got to think about it a little longer.

Total journal load is about 6 lifter/spring loads closed, 3 open valves + 3 closed valves.
Add timing gear load to the first bearing. I tend to worry about the first 4 cam bearings, start with #1 as most important...5th bearing is least concern. Too bad the #5 bearing gets the least knicks and jabs.


HIS

"tbdET/1xxMPH/1.xx 60foot/28"/3.54:1/10"/469 #48/Flat HYD/DualQ-Jets/Offyl/3xx0Lbs
11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs
12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/469 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs
12.70/103MPH/1.71 60foot/28"/4.10:1/12"/469 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3950Lbs"

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95 Towncar that needs more TQ.
Sold 2023: 12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct
Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct
Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct
  #17  
Old 12-23-2003, 08:15 PM
Brents67 Brents67 is offline
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I ran into the same problem I bought the cam bearing tool (Lisle) and installed them myself, the front one being the hardest because of the stand in the way(putting it on a bench would be easier) but since your in that far why would you not change the rod and mains? you can cheat but I would make sure that your oil holes are lined up(you do that by looking down the main saddle)
good luck
Brent

  #18  
Old 12-23-2003, 08:25 PM
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Ray Cox Ray Cox is offline
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you could take it to rick johnson he is south of chicago on 394 he would do it assembled

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  #19  
Old 12-24-2003, 05:49 AM
trumpeter trumpeter is offline
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Ray, do you have contact info for Rick?

Trumpeter

74 Trans Am
89 Mustang GT CP

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