[ponchoskip]

I am down to the steel frames and springs of my 65 bucket seats and of course there is alot of rust. I would like to blast it. Is it possible to disconnect the "bottom spring frame work" from the frame as a unit? Some spring attaching points look easy; others like at the front edge won't just pull out with a pliers but probably will go with a punch and hammer. Thought I would start at the back and work forward. Then how hard is it to get back on? Opinions on how to do, difficulty, and tips on track cleanup also appreciated.

[ponchoskip]

I am down to the steel frames and springs of my 65 bucket seats and of course there is alot of rust. I would like to blast it. Is it possible to disconnect the "bottom spring frame work" from the frame as a unit? Some spring attaching points look easy; others like at the front edge won't just pull out with a pliers but probably will go with a punch and hammer. Thought I would start at the back and work forward. Then how hard is it to get back on? Opinions on how to do, difficulty, and tips on track cleanup also appreciated.

[ponchoskip]

Oops, this probably should be in the body shop forum or at least the 64-65. I have asked to have it moved, but I imagine the 66-67 seat framework is similar, so any help appreciated.

[ponchoskip]

I looked at the seat frame one more time and decided to go after it with a hammer and screw driver; a good sized punch would probably be a better choice. Started with the spring ends at the front in the covered slots. Tapped on the half circle first until the very end of the spring was wedged tight; then put the punch on the very tip end of the spring and tapped it into the hole, then used a pliers to pull it out of the slot. On the spring ends that are held with three tabs, just loosen the larger one a tad ( it's opposite the two that are side by side). Then it should be loose enough to grab it with a pliers and twist it out of the other tabs. This probably took me about 15 minutes and wasn't hard at all. Now the springs are off the frame and still one unit. Getting it back on may be another story and I am already seeing that fresh paint getting scratched trying to force the springs back into those slots. Depending on the amount of rust I would suggest bending the tabs as little as possible to avoid breaking them off.
I think the sliding tracks will come apart once the bolts are out that hold it to the frame. Looks like four ball bearings in separate cages that will fall out as you slide it off the rail so document how they are in there and probably put them back in the same side. Also looks like
at least two roller wheels that take all of the weight= wonder how worn they are?
Still wondering how inefficient blasting the springs will be?
I think I will also switch the tracks on the seat frames so I can move the better passenger seat to the drivers side - I think this will be better than just swapping springs, but not sure it will work. Likewise will probably just swap the entire back rest assembly which I presume is identical.
I will probably spray two coats of Zero Rust black after treating bare metal with Picklix 20. Powder coating is tempting, thinking it may hold up better to the scratching movement of the springs.
There- just answered my own question and hope it helps out someone. Any opinions on clean up painting or whatever still appreciated.

First Timer - Ponchoskip

[Brad B. Hillebrand]

Blasting the seats is O.K, but it takes a little time. Not too efficient. I would have them dipped instead. I blasted mine and took a long time to get into all the areas. I wouldn't do it again.

After the rust is removed, air it off and use a good cleaner to make sure the surface is nice and clean.

You can use Cold Galvanizing compound to treat the metal. No need to topcoat. The compound is basically pure zinc and stops rust from spreading. It's not too expensive either, about 7 bucks a can from Ace, also at Eastwood.

Brad

[meanolgoat]

When I re-did my seats, I took the frames to a local chrome plater, and had him dip the frames.

He threw them in at the end of the day, I picked them up the next morning, it was cheap, $40.00 for fronts and rear springs.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Blasting not good it will anneal the springs.

I hosed the spring sets, sun-dried, then sprayed clear enamel paint.

HIS

[ponchoskip]

Half Inch, Meanolgoat, and Brad B:

Your comments appreciated, I'm glad to be talked out of trying to blast the springs. I will probably have to drive 90 miles to get to a plater, but if they will do it for 40 or 50 bucks it will be worth the drive. Thanks for mentioning cold galvanizing too, sounds like it should be better than paint.

Ponchskip

[dakotadog]

Have you considered electrolysis to remove the rust. I tried it on some parts and it worked really well. You will need a battery charger, a plastic container and some rebar or scrap steel.

Here is a pretty good website with info

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

[firebum]

dakotadog,

Thanks for the link. I was also wondering the best way to de-rust seat springs. No doubt now.

I'm going down to the closest feed store and finding a big plastic feed trough which should be large enough to hold entire spring unit.

Merry Christmas,

Jim

[ponchoskip]

Dakotadog,

Thanks for the electrolosis idea. I have read about that. I will need to take some time to consider that too which includes going to that link you supplied. I have found a huge plastic garbage container that will take over half the rear seat spring. I have been contemplating using that to dip paint the springs. If I could use it too derust too, that would make the 20 dollar investment worth it. Thanks again.

[nocfire]

Just curious has anyone bought new springs from our host on page 16 of their catalog? Are these good quality springs? I haven't got to the interior yet but figured the springs in my buckets probably have lost their strength and free height through the years and needed replacing anyway. I know this is expensive but what isn't when doing a restoration?

[61-63]

Thanks for the link. I too have some seat springs to clean and am going to try this.

[GoatDr]

I replaced my drivers side seat springs in my 70 GTO with springs from PY and they were excellent in fit and finish. It was really the easiest part of the seat restoration. The seat covers were a PITA. The seats are so much better now.

[nocfire]

GoatDr....

Thanks for the response.

[RayJ]

I coated my springs with Klean Strip Rust Converter (available from the Wal-Mart auto department and other automotive stores). It comes in two forms; spray can and bottle of liquid which can be painted on. The spray can is quicker but the paint on works best for hard to get into spots. It actually converts the rust into a black primer. I did not paint over it, and a year and a half later the springs still look like I had just done them with no rust. This is an inexpensive and easy way to get rid of the rust and prevent further rusting. A nice follow on touch would be to coat with a cast iron or steel coating from a spray can, but no one sees them unless you pull your seats out.

[ponchoskip]

RayJ
Thanks for the idea of using Kleanstrip Rust Converter. I have a Rustoleum product on hand that could be brushed on so that is an option. It would be nice to seal the rust and have the paint look done in one step. I have considered a combination of spraying and brushing with ZeroRust paint. I may even try dipping using ZeroRust paint. It boils down to cost, ease of doing, and what is good enough. Thanks again - there is always another slant on how to do this stuff, that makes this forum great.