[trshman]

While washing the car tonight I noticed water inside the rear window of my '66 that had entered at the top near the right corner and dripped down almost all the way to the bottom.

The water only entered in this one area and I was using a high pressure hose at a self car wash but the fact it got in at all bothers me.

Any suggestions on how best to seal this up before it becomes worse would be appreciated.

Have a good one.

Bob G.

[trshman]

While washing the car tonight I noticed water inside the rear window of my '66 that had entered at the top near the right corner and dripped down almost all the way to the bottom.

The water only entered in this one area and I was using a high pressure hose at a self car wash but the fact it got in at all bothers me.

Any suggestions on how best to seal this up before it becomes worse would be appreciated.

Have a good one.

Bob G.

[Colin]

Take it to a glass shop and have them remove the glass,clean out the old sealant,then add new sealant & reinstall glass.
Problem is there is a chance the glass may break when trying to remove it,especially if its the original 30+ year old glass.Most shops wont guarantee against breakage so if it breaks you gotta get a new one.
Sometimes they can remove the trim and add a bead of sealant over the old and it will work,you may want to try that first.
I have the same problem on my Firebird,going to get it fixed before I install my new interior pieces.Good luck!!
Colin

[Guy Mazza]

You may want to do this job over a 2-day period if possible. 9 out of 10 times there will be enough rust/crust to warrant a GOOD cleaning of the rust, proper metal-prep/prime/paint. You may even want to get some Automotive grade seam sealer (3M makes a great product) and seal the seams under the rear window (at package tray) THEN seal/reintall glass. When the glass shops we use say, "no guarantee against glass breakage" I say, "no guarantee our check will be good!"

"Lifes short, so love the one ya got, 'cause you might get runover or you might get shot"

[Guy Mazza]

[JEFF KING]

Try sealing it first on the car.. Sounds like a small leak. Does it leak when you just wash it or when you just pressure wash it?
As for removeing the rear window get a spare just to be on the safe side before you remove it!
it,s too easy to break a 30-something window then what? Hope this helps.
jeff

---------------------------------------------------------
"GTO? Good Times Only!!!" "Get Tools Out!!!"
---------------------------------------------------------

[meanolegoat]

Your best bet if you cant do it yourself is to take it to a reputable body shop. Why?? think about it..glass shops sell glass' just like tire stores sell tires!!! I run a dealer svc. dept. and 99 times out of l00, guess what happens??? They break the damn glass!!! The reason being is that many (note I did not say most!!) are merely installers. But your piece doesn't grow on trees. I cut my own out with a serrated steak knife (bent the end at a 90) and a guitar string....good luck "mean"

[T/A 70]

Taking out glass is a snap (no joke intended). Guy is right on the money, you'll probably need to check the window channels for rust thru. If it bothers you that water get's in I'm sure the thought of rust eating away at your car in that area bother's you.

T/A 70

[trshman]

Thank you one and all.

I'm gonna try leaving the glass in and just resealing around it because I don't think the leak is that bad, here's why;
1. the moulding was removed for polishing and
2. I had the spray gun nozzle literally inches from where the water entered in an attempt to clean off the soap.

Except for these 2 things I'm pretty sure the water wouldn't have "normally" even gotten in.

So that's it. Thanks for all your feedback.

Have a good one,
Bob G.

[GoatRider]

Speaking of rust in this location...

I got the window out successfully using the ol bent knife and piano wire method. But the ENTIRE bottom edge is completly rusted. After wire brushing i now have more holes than i do metal there. Definitely needs replaced.

It looks like a pretty complex shape to try and fabricate. Are there replacement pieces made to go in there, or do i need to find a donor car?

Thanks,
js

"Nothing Beats an Ol' Goat..."

[Chuck Jones]

Try J.C, Whitney at WWW.jcwhitney.com . They sell a "flexible edge repair panel" in 3/4 inch width under part #86UA3412A . Haven't tried it yet , but it looks good on paper!

Save your empty beer cans! The Japanese need 'em to make cars!

[BASHEIII]

If someone could please explain to me how to post a picture, I would love to show you all my back window rust to get some responses on how to fix. It's pretty nasty.

[GDK_1968]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GoatRider:
...It looks like a pretty complex shape to try and fabricate. Are there replacement pieces made to go in there, or do i need to find a donor car?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Personally I would stay away from JC Whitney for repair panels. The forum's sponsor, Performance Years has repair panels for the rear window area between the package tray and trunk, but being that you did not mention the year of your vehicle I do not know for sure.

As far as the window channel along the sides and top, visit a local fabricator and/or sheet metal supply business. Take a coat hanger wire bent to the shape of the channel (an "L" more or less) and have them cut and bend some 18-GA for you. Keep in mind that the profile of the sides and top may change along their length. The fabricator will be able to make the curves, to do so requires a shrinker and stretcher.

An alternative is to make the channel repair in two pieces which will make forming the curved sections much easier. The first forms the vertial section and the second will be the channel seat (upon which the window itself rests upon) horizontal piece. Having this second piece a few inches wider will help with creating the curve in the corners buy merely cutting it to form the semi-"C" shape.

1969 GTO Restoration