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#1
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Just installed Pertronix ignitor (pointless) runs fine but when I start the car big time knock. Tried changing the timing (used to run 15 degrees 11.75 :1 compression) tried all sorts of different settings some help alittle but not much checked the dwell(dont know why cant do anything about it) used to be at 30 now 40 kind of stumped never knocked at all any ideas?
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#2
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Just installed Pertronix ignitor (pointless) runs fine but when I start the car big time knock. Tried changing the timing (used to run 15 degrees 11.75 :1 compression) tried all sorts of different settings some help alittle but not much checked the dwell(dont know why cant do anything about it) used to be at 30 now 40 kind of stumped never knocked at all any ideas?
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#3
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Did you take the distributor out to install the pertronix? If you did the first thing I would check is the oil pump drive. I have never had mine fall out when removing the distributor but you never can tell. Would be alot of peace of mind to just remove one bolt.
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#4
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Injinjoe no I left distributor in car easy to do just like changing points
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#5
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Dwell? On a Pertronix? I thought the idea behind the Pertronix was to eliminate the points?
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
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#6
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It is that was just what it showed when hooked dwell meter up still don.t know why it knocks so bad when starting I also took a plug out it was covered in black soot had just replaced them. also got black carbon? out tail pipes I am wondering if the new hotter spark is causes it to burn off some where. I don't have a clue re built engine 15 years ago put 15000 miles on it no problems never even had to change plugs it ran so clean I think I put points back in tomorrow and see what happens
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#7
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Bill: Isn't there something in the instructions about increasing the plug gap size?
I wish I had a good idea on this one. Did you recheck your initial timing? Did you do the test Pertronix recommends on the coil? The test is the one where you measure the OHMs (or something) on the coil to determine if you need a ballast resistor. -Matt ____________________________________ "Gee, what's that goat doing way up here in a cloud?" -Gary Larson TO THE MILITARY FORCES CURRENTLY ACTIVE, AND THOSE THAT HAVE SERVED; THANK YOU FOR YOUR SACRIFICE FOR FREEDOM. PLEASE COME HOME SAFE.
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____________________________________ "I work in high speed aluminum tubing." |
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#8
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Ghost there is an addwith the instructions for a coil that talks about larger plug gap Idid'nt put there coil on but increasing the gap is some thing to try. it seems to not knock as much with the timing less retarded I've tried 4 degrees to 20. Did the tests in the instructions got plenty of voltage at the coil .
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#9
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The plug gap could be causing an artificially rich condition. Not enough spark kernel to fully burn the mixture. Did you check the voltage at the coil with the car running?
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#10
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Sun Tuned ; I got scared thought I messed up. Put the points back in it runs good again. Maybe try the pertronix some other day
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#11
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You should not use solid core wires with the pertronix.
Did you check the endplay in the distributor shaft? If it´s too big you should use shims to get the gap between magnet and module down to .010" and max .060". If you don´t have a problem with endplay but the distance between module and magnet is still to big you can use the small washers that´s supplied in the package to get the gap right. Did you check the plugs now after you went back to the breaker-points? Are they still sooty or do they show a normal condition? If still sooty you might be jetted too rich. Hope that helps some (if you decide to go back to the pertronix that is |
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#12
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Thanks for all you help guys. The way I see it .
I can change coil, change plug wires, adjust carb, or leave points in and go play golf FORE!! |
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