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AHRACHOVY · 04-04-2003, 04:18 PM

In the process of trying to find the brake genie I am going to replace the master cylinder.
I am currently running a small aluminium unit that is designed for chevy trucks. Seemed to work just fine but maybe it is part of the problem.
Does anyone know the "best" replacement for the 1980 4-wheel disc Master Cylinder, was power.
I saw someone put a 68 GTO Master? Is that steel or aluminium.
Anyway, if anyone knos it would be appreciated going to try and buy it soon.
Also the rear hole on a master cylinder goes to the back?? Man I am getting confused.

AHRACHOVY · 04-04-2003, 04:18 PM

In the process of trying to find the brake genie I am going to replace the master cylinder.
I am currently running a small aluminium unit that is designed for chevy trucks. Seemed to work just fine but maybe it is part of the problem.
Does anyone know the "best" replacement for the 1980 4-wheel disc Master Cylinder, was power.
I saw someone put a 68 GTO Master? Is that steel or aluminium.
Anyway, if anyone knos it would be appreciated going to try and buy it soon.
Also the rear hole on a master cylinder goes to the back?? Man I am getting confused.

Bigred455 · 04-05-2003, 02:26 AM

Dave, I have been searching for an "easy" swap from power to manual brakes for my 73 too. I have drums so that slightly complicates some more, but I have heard that a late 70's G-body will work, an it is even aluminum too, maybe if you have time you could look into this further. I would myself, but i dont have access to my car at the present time.

Also, is that M/C from an S10? Maybe it is designed for drum/disc, not disc/disc? If so, and you decide to sell Iwould be interested.

thanks, George Hil

AHRACHOVY · 04-05-2003, 10:05 AM

I will and I am looking for the receipt of the actual master cylinder I bought. It has worked good I just am changing everything to track down my problem.
I put an email into one of the Pontiac guys "pdmracer" who seems to have some of this info. I will look into a swap for a disc/drum for a 73 while I am searching.
Dave

Bigred455 · 04-05-2003, 01:21 PM

Dave, that sounds good! You might not remember me, but I am that kid that Tommy brought out a couple times years ago. You still have a cool car! Let me know, and I can get some money to Tommy, as I am in Wyoming right now, thanks again, George.

fast72lemans · 04-05-2003, 02:46 PM

I'm using a master off an 83 C-10 pick-up with manual brakes, seams to work fine.

AHRACHOVY · 04-05-2003, 04:00 PM

Well good to hear from you George. And fast72 I think that is the same master I am using. I am really just paranoid about the whole braking system. I think it worked fine for a coupl years. I have been worried that the rod slips out of dead center and then rides on the outer circle, by pushing hard at the angle perhaps I have hurt the workings of the master cylinder??
Just trying to get the problem all at once!

fast72lemans · 04-06-2003, 05:47 AM

9Sec, You have to get the rubber boot that goes over the end of m/c, that is what keeps the rod in place.

fuzzy dice · 04-06-2003, 04:09 PM

if you are going to use the master cyl. from an s 10 pickup i sugest you go to the boneyard and get the whole assembly from a man. brake set up. try to find one from 88 or earlier because it has sae fittings. for 15 dollars i got the master, prop valve, rod rubber boot AND the steel cup that retains the rod. the cup is keyholed so the rod cannot fall out because it only goes in one way. on my 66 lemans the original brake rod is threadded with a clevis on the end. i simply laid each master side by side to check the length of the rod, cut the s 10 rod to correct size and threadded 3/8 24. firewall had to be opened up to accomodate new master but it looks like it belongs there when installed . the steel cup i mentioned can probably be bought at a dealer if you cannot locate it in the yards. i think the steel retention cup IS a must if you go with this conversion. sometimes you get only one chance to stop and if the pedal is low to start with and you try rapid pumps you could lose the rod and your ride. play it safe... steve

grnmnstr · 04-07-2003, 06:57 PM

This might not be related, but maybe it is.
I have had a problem doing a burnout the first run of every raceday. The 2,3,4, etc are no problem. Long story short, we changed the MC and the problem went away. Maybe the seals were shot and would only work when the temperature was hot, like stopping a 3250 lb car at 131 mph!!

Anyway, the car is a 73 Bird. It came from the factory with discs in the front and drums in the rear. We have since replaced the front and rear with Aerospace Components disc brakes.
I took the power booster out about seven years ago and I think I cut the rod and put the same master back on?? I don't remember exactly.
The master that I took out had a 1" diameter cylinder. The master I put in last week is a power brake master cylinder for a 73 Firebird with a 1 1/8" cylinder.
I asked a friend about putting in the S-10 master cylinder (plastic??). He said he didn't like them?? So I stuck with the steel one.

Anyway, my problem has finally gone away. BTW, I have about 800 psi in the brake lines, which is enough for my cold front brakes to hold my car back while I do the burnout.

73 Firebird 455 D-Port, 3250 lbs.
Best ET: 9.93 @ 133 mph with a 1.318 60'

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