[Bungee]

I have large, chromed trim pieces that look like someone tried to "polish" them with sandpaper . . . the surface is dull with scratches.

Is there anything that can be done to aggressively tackle the surface, and bring back a smooth shine? . . . the chrome is excellant quality and thick.

___________________

Also: Is there anyway for the layman to polish aluminum trim (window reveal moldings, etc.) to a chrome-like shine like the professionals do?

I just had some 30-year old Mercedes aluminum wheels professionally polished. They look absolutely beautiful . . . like chrome . I'd like to be able to do some of this myself for my Pontiac trim pieces . . .

[ August 17, 2002, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: Bungee ]

[Bungee]

I have large, chromed trim pieces that look like someone tried to "polish" them with sandpaper . . . the surface is dull with scratches.

Is there anything that can be done to aggressively tackle the surface, and bring back a smooth shine? . . . the chrome is excellant quality and thick.

___________________

Also: Is there anyway for the layman to polish aluminum trim (window reveal moldings, etc.) to a chrome-like shine like the professionals do?

I just had some 30-year old Mercedes aluminum wheels professionally polished. They look absolutely beautiful . . . like chrome . I'd like to be able to do some of this myself for my Pontiac trim pieces . . .

[ August 17, 2002, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: Bungee ]

[larry davis]

Yes you can do it, but it is extremely time consuming-labor intensive.
You'll need a pedestal type grinder/polisher w/ the appropriate buffing wheels & rouge/compounds.
Start w/ a scotchbrite wheel to get all the scratches going in the same direction. Usually for long trim pieces this will be lengthwise.
You can use some 240-400 sandpaper designed for wet/dry useage to expedite any bad scratching.
Thjen hit it w/ a woven buffing wheel w/ the correct compound, then work up to a loose wheel w/ the correct compound for that final finish.
Eastwood has all the supplies you'll need.

[ScottN]

First of all, if you're polishing Pontiac trim it's stainless steel not aluminumn. That makes a BIG difference in the compound you need since alu is a lot softer than st st. Like Larry said, Eastwood has all the supplies you will need. I bought a st st polishing kit from them and had great results. Also, like Larry said, it's dirty and time consuming. I would suggest you practice on a piece of trim you don't need just to see how different compounds and different motions will react on the trim.
I started with a tightly woven wheel and Emery compound to get out the deep scratches. Then moved on to a Buffing comp and semi-loose wheel. Finally I finished it with a loose wheel and polishing compound. This will not be a 5 min job. Be patient.
The wheels have specific names according to how they are stitched. I just can't remember them right now.
Check out www.eastwoodco.com to see the different products.

Hope this helps.

[Bungee]

Originally posted by Scott Nimons:
Like Larry said, Eastwood has all the supplies you will need.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Spent all morning at the Eastwood site. Great info.

Originally posted by Scott Nimons:
if you're polishing Pontiac trim it's stainless steel not aluminumn. That makes a BIG difference in the compound you need since alu is a lot softer than st st.

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm doing 2 cars...1 is not a Pontiac. How do you tell if it's aluminum or stainless?

[ August 18, 2002, 04:00 PM: Message edited by: Bungee ]

[larry davis]

Stainless is a lot harder than aluminum.
Most all trim pieces from all marques were stainless.
Aluminum will bend & scratch very easy.
If all else fails, aluminum will not spark when ya' hit it with a grinder. Stainless will, but very short intermittent sparks, not like ferrous steels that have longer stringer type sparks.
400 series stainless is slightly magnetic, but most trim is made of 300 series that isn't magnetic. Aluminum alloys arn't magnetic at all.

['ol Pinion head]

If the trim in question is alum, I would be very careful removing it & seriously consider having the job done professionally.

With some practice & the right tools, stainless can be straightened & polished at home. Alum, on the other hand, I've never had much luck with it...my own experience is limited to straighting side mldings & trying to work decent size hail dents out of 66-67 GTO door & 1/4 window trim. When completely straight & polished, the piece will need to be reanodized. Anodizing replaces the hard outer coating & allows alum not to go milky looking.

If anyone has a link to the alum anodizing company in Kenner, Lousiana, please post it. Thanks.

[Scott Misus]

[quote]Originally posted by Bungee:

How do you tell if it's aluminum or stainless?

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A magnet?

Eastwood is a glorified repackager.

Search the Internet for manufacturers of buffing rouges and supplies.

[61man]

Oh scott, I've never seen any magnetic stainless trim pieces,