[GDK_1968]

Mechanically inclined I am, but component savy I am not.

I have a '69 with 400 and TH400 auto, both need to be rebuilt. Unfortunately the car sat in a field for a decade or so and was raped of engine components. I have everything from the intake down (less items like water pump, brackets) and I think the heads are complete, but a spark plug wire caught under a valve cover lip makes me wonder .

At any rate, if you were rebuilding a motor what should I shop for? There is a budget involved, but would like to have a decent driver but enough meat under the hood for friendly competetion once in awhile. Thus far I am thinking .030 over, but beyond that I am clueless. Looking for recommendations on pistons, cam, carb, exhaust, ignition, distributor, etc. If it matters the the rear end is 3.55:1 (according to PHS documents, I have not verified visually or counted the teeth). Essentially a complete matched setup that will give me significant HP, OK MPG, and push your body into the seat low-end torque. Keep in mind this will be a driver and not street competetion and am on a budget.

Thanks!

[GDK_1968]

Mechanically inclined I am, but component savy I am not.

I have a '69 with 400 and TH400 auto, both need to be rebuilt. Unfortunately the car sat in a field for a decade or so and was raped of engine components. I have everything from the intake down (less items like water pump, brackets) and I think the heads are complete, but a spark plug wire caught under a valve cover lip makes me wonder .

At any rate, if you were rebuilding a motor what should I shop for? There is a budget involved, but would like to have a decent driver but enough meat under the hood for friendly competetion once in awhile. Thus far I am thinking .030 over, but beyond that I am clueless. Looking for recommendations on pistons, cam, carb, exhaust, ignition, distributor, etc. If it matters the the rear end is 3.55:1 (according to PHS documents, I have not verified visually or counted the teeth). Essentially a complete matched setup that will give me significant HP, OK MPG, and push your body into the seat low-end torque. Keep in mind this will be a driver and not street competetion and am on a budget.

Thanks!

[dr Rick]

Dear Pontiac aficionado,

As far as I'm concerned you should have the heads reconditioned, and a small overbore (0.030") wouldn't hurt you either. Have your crankshaft checked and reworked (if necessary) too.
The '69 400 is a strong engine, so you won't need many upgrade parts. Here are some suggestions:

* TRW forged aluminum pistons

* ARP bolts

* a 744 OEM cam (224°/236° int./exh. @ 0.050" lift, 115° lobe separation, 0.408"/0.407" lift) which combines reasonable gas mileage with excellent low and midrange torque.

* you can add roller rockers with a 1.65:1 ratio in a later stadium to give the cam a little more profile and reduce some friction

* Hooker (Super) Competition headers, Flowmaster mufflers, you can buy these in a later stadium as well, depending on your budget

* an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold can be purchased if your old one is rusty or damaged. If it's in good shape, however, don't change it since the Edelbrock will only save you some weight(aluminum) and doesn't improve flow very much. Watch out for the Performer RPM, since it works only fine with hotter cams (+ 228° intake duration) and is not suitable for TA shaker hoods.

[dr Rick]

Hi,

* breakerless distributor (e.g. Pertronix Flamethrower HEI)

* Holley Street Avenger carburator (a whole lot easier to tune than a Rochester, plus it might get you an approx. 5 extra horses, for a streetable 400 it's rating should be 630-670 cfm)

Regards,

Rick

[myckee]

What Dr.rick suggested sounds good, but what I would add to the list are a set of aftermarket rods. KRE sells some for around 495. I know you said you were on a budget, but I would really try to get some. Especially when slinging around heavy pistons like the trw forged.

Lots of guys use and say stock rods properly reconditioned will be fine, but I have had to junk two motors because of rod failure. Spend a little more now, and you won't have to spend a lot later.

[GTOPhil]

I would resist the temptation to overcam this engine and stay inside 220 duration for a daily driver. Both Crower and UD make cams with durations in the 215 range that would be perfect. Stock rods with ARP's are fine, even with heavy TRW pistons. Have your Q-Jet set up by Cliff Ruggles. I also run one of David Ray's small-body HEI conversions and love it. Give the thing a good balance job and pay particular attention to the static compression ratio. There is no sense going above 9.5 on a daily driver that will be run on pump gas. If you have the 72cc heads, you will either have to dish the TRW 2262 pistons or run the KB's. This combo will have great manners and will tear the tires off at will.

[critter]

What you didn't say is what kind of shape this motor is in. Until you tear down the short block it is hard to say what kind of over bore is needed, if any. What heads are on the motor? Yes, have them rebuilt and hardened seats put in for today's gas. If you're not revving the thing over 6K, the stock rods with ARP and TRW's will work. For more money you can go Eagle rods, Ross pistons and lightweight pins but that's overkill for a street car that will only see a track once or twice a year. Quadrajets get a bad rap. I had mine rebuilt by Bryan Blocker at Blocker Performance and Restoration (www.blockersperformance.com) and it's great. I change secondary rods depending on ambient temp. That's it. Less than 5 minutes. Look at a RAIV cam if you want a bit more than factory.