[AHRACHOVY]

Do you have to run a tube with rim screws? Going from an 11.5 Tire to a 10.5 Tire, did not run tubes or screws before but plan on running both now. Will the tube help, hurt, ??

[AHRACHOVY]

Do you have to run a tube with rim screws? Going from an 11.5 Tire to a 10.5 Tire, did not run tubes or screws before but plan on running both now. Will the tube help, hurt, ??

[SLOW 77]

No tubes. One of the top builders around here said that NONE of his cars leave the shop with tubes. The treory was something like the tires could react faster without the tubes than with them in. The sidewalls would be thinner, and would not react against the tubes.

One of mine leaks a little bit over a few days, with screws and no tubes. I have had a pair that didn't leak at all, just depends. I don't think a tube is much of a safety precaution anyways, if you run over a piece of glass strong enough to puncture the slick, what would stop the glass from ripping through a 1/16-1/8" thin tube?

[Goatman]

I don't use tubes either. Massive rotational wieght savings and Slow77 is right, if you pop the slick, the tube is coming with it.

For any of those interested I have a story about this. One of my good freinds has a 66' Nova II with a large motor in it. Its a tube frame car that weighs 3100lbs (all steel but hood, even the back bumper is steel). He brought it to the Orlando World Street Finals last year after putting only two passes on the car up here. He was running tubes. This old man next to him had a real rat of a car, but the thing was dialed in to the max and it was competitive. After my buddy made a couple of qualifying passes that were horrrible (1.5 60' range), he was having a fit with the car. The old man took one look at his wheels, told him to take the wheel tubes out and presto, his 60' came right back on par with everyone else's (low 1's). He didn't know the guy from a hole in the wall, but figured if the guy could make his rat that fast, he miust know a little something. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img] Sometimes its that simple.

BTW, he qualified 13th out of 32 cars (on only one stage of nitrous), from all over the country. Got put out in the first round when his converter balooned and bent his flywheel! Not to bad for a guy who had NEVER driven a car faster than 8.80's before and only had two passes on his new car! He's gone to a Lenco (with a Bruno) this year and an aluminum block as well! Hold on baby!

[AHRACHOVY]

What about big end stability on the little tire (true 10.5)at between 140 & 150?? Would the tube help there??
Thanks so much for the input.

[Goatman]

Well, he's going 7.70's on a 10.5" with no problems (should have included that in my first post). The car drifts a little, as do they all at those speeds. I would think that a properly functioning suspension and wing/spoiler for downforce would have more effects.

As for me, I've only run 128 MPH, but it was so easy, the third time I had one hand on the wheel. Smooth as can be.

[ February 14, 2002: Message edited by: Goatman ]</p>

[grnmnstr]

I run Hoosier 29.5 x 11.5W slicks with no tubes. I coat the inside walls of the slicks with dishwashing liquid soap. They hold air all year. Also, I put a little silicone on the threads when installing the rim screws.

I would also recommend a slick with a stiff sidewall. Especially in a heavy car.

[Tim Corcoran]

I have a 3700 lb. A-Body car that runs low 11's. I used to run tubless but got tired of the tires going flat. The only reason I went to tubes was because of the leakage factor, haven't tried the soap thing. I didn't notice any difference in 60' times or ET. I run a 1.49 to 1.55 60' with a 28X10.5 M/T slick. There is another factor here, which tubes are you running. The natural rubber drag racing type tubes (expensive) are pretty heavy duty. I run a light truck radial style tube that is light weight. I am not saying which way is better, only that I choose to go with tubes because of the I was tired of leaky tires. If you go to tubes you might try the automotive lightweight type tubes.

Tim Corcoran

[ February 15, 2002: Message edited by: Tim Corcoran ]</p>

[PROBRD]

There is a possibility that even after coating the inside of the slicks with dishwashing soap that you will still have a problem with them losing air. Not a lot but enough that you should check them before each week.

The tubes will make the slicks grow more on the top end but won't make any difference in handling. Most of the time the top end wandereing is from running too little pressure or a suspension problem. If you can get away without running them, I wouldn't.

[Torment]

28x10.5" MT I ran with and without tubes. Preferred tubeless, tire reacted better off the line and the car actually felt more stable on the top end-to me. I had heard rumors of instability on the top end of the track which is what kept me from running tubeless for some time. However, on the advice of a few around here I tried it and wouldn't go back. Trap speed 142mph, 3700lbs, 8.5psi cold tire pressure.

[AHRACHOVY]

This kind of real world pratical advise is exactly why I love this board!!!