[Dean]

I am using a new Fel-Pro gasket set to rebuild my 400. Should I use silicon gasket sealer on the intake manifold gaskets, and what about the rest of the gaskets, oil pan, timing chain cover, etc.? Thanks!

[ April 23, 2002, 09:36 AM: Message edited by: Dean ]

[Dean]

I am using a new Fel-Pro gasket set to rebuild my 400. Should I use silicon gasket sealer on the intake manifold gaskets, and what about the rest of the gaskets, oil pan, timing chain cover, etc.? Thanks!

[ April 23, 2002, 09:36 AM: Message edited by: Dean ]

[Half-Inch Stud]

I gave up on the Indianhead shellac sealer. Good stuff but the Silicone (Black, copper, clear) is just too easy to slap things together.

Avoid the Blue and Gray silicones. The limited tubes that I had were always difficult. Blue seems to harden too soon. Gray seemed to never fully cure.

Be sure to play tricks like only sealing the Valve cover gaskets to the valvecovers, and rely on a dry-seal onto the heads.

Seal the valley cover gasket to the valley cover, not the block.

Seal the Intake gaskets to the heads.

Seal the oilpan gasket to the oil pan. If you feel lucky (Street only, no rod bearing inspections) then seal to the block too.

Seal the distributor gasket to the distributor.

Toss the O-ring seals from the intake valve retainers. Use Umbrella seals on the Intake Valveguides (find a way to Lock them into place).

H.I. Stud

[meanolegoat]

heres my 2 cents, i only use silicone where there is not a gasket...i use 3m weatherstrip adhesive, applied pretty much as 1/2 inch directed...you only need someting to tack the gaskets in place for installation...it works great and dries quick..if you run into a situation where you need a silicone sealer i highly reccomend G.M.'s silicone adhesive/sealer (just dont use it on anything you plan on tearing down in the near future!!!) like i said my .02 worth ...meanolegoat

[Tim Swain]

I'll go with Half in" up to the valve train. I run perfict circle seals myself.
When assembling engines I've taken to a Calk gun on the areas Half in" talked about.
50year clear pure silicone, hell thats what every good construction contracter uses.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

After using just about all the silicones and brands out there, I finally ended up with the "Permatex" brand Gray type. Sets up hard, but can be cleaned off with a razor type blade. Full Set up time is a couple hrs.
1/2' what brand of Gray were you using? as the Permatex gray is the best stuff since S*X. LOL.
Haven't had a problem yet.

[Injunjoe]

Hi Guys this is my first post and I couldn't help but ask why do you scrap the O-Ring seals at the tops of the valves. Are they really useless? I have honestly wondered what their purpose was considering their position on the valve and general nature to harden very quickly. I am about to start putting together another engine, and any such information would be great.

Joe

[Half-Inch Stud]

Ken,

I will buy the Permatex Gray and see how it goes.

I can positive-verify this evening, the batch of never-fully-curing gray. Probably why my TH400 leaks like a sieve.

H.I. Stud

[Tim Swain]

GM also makes a great gray silicone, good for my small jobs.
I find the calk gun gives long even pulls of silicone on big jobs.
Joe, go to an atuomotive machine shop and ask about perfict circle seals.

[PONTIAC DUDE]

The purpose of the O-ring is to control oil running down thru the gap in the keepers and going down the guide. I recommend using them along with positive type valve boots to control oil in the head area. Makes the job easier for a boot seal.
Even on valves that don't have a groove for them. I install em and let em settle where they may on a street engine.

[Half-Inch Stud]

None of my valvestems have O-rings.

None of my valve boots have laces.

Butt, I doo have a good pile of tar-like deposits on the Intake valve backsides....DOLP!

Guees either my Guides have had it after 12years or the Teflon umbrella seals on the Bronze intake guides could not do all of the trick.

H.I. Stud