[Glenp68]

A few questions. I was wondering if there is a special body shop tool for rolling the panel flanges over the door frame when installing a replacement skin. I don't want to induce any waves or dimples to the outside. Also wondering if you have to remove the primer from the lip of the skin if your installing with panel adhesive. Does the panel adhesive have enough open time to roll all the edges before setting?

Thanks, Glen

[Glenp68]

A few questions. I was wondering if there is a special body shop tool for rolling the panel flanges over the door frame when installing a replacement skin. I don't want to induce any waves or dimples to the outside. Also wondering if you have to remove the primer from the lip of the skin if your installing with panel adhesive. Does the panel adhesive have enough open time to roll all the edges before setting?

Thanks, Glen

[Marty Phipps]

Attaching a door skin for an in experienced person can by tough.
I've seen too many "experienced" technicians screw them up.
I'll try and walk you through the procedure I use to attach a door skin.
I'm assuming you've already removed the old skin, and cleaned the edges.
hopefully you'll have the following things handy to complete the procedure.

A large body dolly with a VERY flat surface.

A couple of body hammers you're comfortable with.
hopefully 1 will have a flat chisle end

Approximately 6 pair of "C" clamp vise grips.

At least 6 heavy duty stir sticks( or a substitute would be a 1x2 cut to 10" lengths)

A couple of saw horses, with towels or blankets on top of them

#1 check the door shell for any distortion along the attachment edges. if there is any, repair it before attaching the skin.

#2 place the door skin on the shell and align it.
(you want to make sure it fits properly, and has no obstructions before permanently attaching)

#3 Place a small bead of sealer along the inside edge of the door skin.
Check the working time of the product you're using. Some 2 part adhesives only have a working time of 15-20 minutes. Stay away from these
Set the skin back on the door shell

#4 Set the pieces of wood along the outside of the door skin. LIGHTLY clamp the skin to the door shell, The wood blocks are to keep clamp marks off the skin, and to disperse the load to a larger area.
#5 turn the door over, so that the skin is now resting on the padded saw horses.
#6 set the flat side of the dolly firmly against the outer side of the skin. Start lightly tapping the skin flange so that it starts to fold over.
Work one area at a time, and go from corner to corner, before starting on the next flanged area.
As you work the flange, it will probably be necessary to remove the vise grips as you approach them.
DO NOT try to fully flatten the flange with one pass. take your time, It generally takes me three passes front to back, before I'll have one section fully flanged.
Under no circumstances do you want the dolly to "bounce"
I have a hammer with a flat chisled back that I use to finish the final pass.
Generally door skins get mangled from installation
because the installer hurries too fast and uses too much hammer force on the flanges.

Years ago we tried some of the various flange roller that have been advertised, as of yet I haven't found one that quite works as well as it's advertised.

[Glenp68]

Thanks for the help Marty. The method makes sense. I'll definately take my time.

[lrosen]

I found the following old post about door skins. Can anyone describe how to check the door shell for distortion and how it might be corrected?

Thanks.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Marty Phipps:
Attaching a door skin for an in experienced person can by tough.
I've seen too many "experienced" technicians screw them up.
I'll try and walk you through the procedure I use to attach a door skin.
I'm assuming you've already removed the old skin, and cleaned the edges.
hopefully you'll have the following things handy to complete the procedure.

A large body dolly with a VERY flat surface.

A couple of body hammers you're comfortable with.
hopefully 1 will have a flat chisle end

Approximately 6 pair of "C" clamp vise grips.

At least 6 heavy duty stir sticks( or a substitute would be a 1x2 cut to 10" lengths)

A couple of saw horses, with towels or blankets on top of them

#1 check the door shell for any distortion along the attachment edges. if there is any, repair it before attaching the skin.

[Marty Phipps]

Distortion, can be a couple of different things.
Usually it'll be either prior collision damage, removal of the old skin damage, or possible weld damage.
You should be able to lay the new skin on the shell.
And look down the length to see if the shell sets farther away in one area or another.
A long straight edge will work very well for the bottom of the shell.

[Marty Phipps]

To correct the distortion, all depends on the severity and location.
You may be able to remove it with a little hammer and dolly work.
If it's really bad, you may have to get aggressive, and bring out the big hammers, and heat