[Rob B]

Has anyone "rigged" an accurate tool or found a way to check/set pinion depth without using an actual pinion depth tool??? I have calipers and dial indicator if that helps. I have an idea but was curious if anyone has done it without the "proper" tool.

[Rob B]

Oh yeah, 12 bolt rearend.

[Rob B]

Has anyone "rigged" an accurate tool or found a way to check/set pinion depth without using an actual pinion depth tool??? I have calipers and dial indicator if that helps. I have an idea but was curious if anyone has done it without the "proper" tool.

[Tom Vaught]

I holda the pinion abouta three foots above the a
ground, I lets ago, The pinion, she fall througha space and hits the mud. How mucha mud splashes all
over my new white pants is a the pinion depth.
No special tools required for the a test. A good washing machine and soapa is needed to cleana the
pants, though. Always a glad to helpa. Tom V.
(My Nunzi Romano impersonation). A truely nice
and knowledgable man).

[TTS]

I own the tools. If I didn't, I wouldn't do it this way, I'd go buy the tools.
1) Install pinion with your best guestimate of shim stock into the housing.
2) Install carrier caps.
3) Measure carrier cap diameter, write down the radius.
4) Measure with a straight edge from the front bearing support to the carrier. Look for the closest distance moving the straight edge in the housing.
5) Add radius measurement.

Or buy the tool- The time it takes, and the possible inaccuracy to check and double check, I would measure from the parting line then read the grease if I had to get it rolling. Most of the time you will only see .002" change from stock. Just enough to make noise. Usually doesn't really change durability. My 2 cents [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ May 12, 2002, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: TTS ]

[Garry Sr]

OK, I'm a hack. I take the old shim off and put it on the new pinion, then I press on the new bearing. The big thing I worry about is preload. I always pack the pinion bearings with grease before I install the pinion. I do everything else by feel. When I shim my carrier, I like a pretty snug fit. After I get that where I want it I start moving shims around to get the desired play between the ring and pinion. I would recommend that you use your dial indicator for this. Although I never do. Pay attention on play and fit when you disassemble the rear end. Believe it or not, I have never smoked a rear end. I have seen guys smoke rear ends and it's usually because of the wrong bearing pre-load on the pinion. Of coarse theres always the dummy that decides he doesn't need any play between the ring and pinion! I'm sure alot of guys will not agree with me on this one, but like I said, I'm a hack!! I grease the carrier bearings too. Don't listen to me man, it's late and I'm on drugs!! You will never learn if you don't try. Get the pinion preload right or your screwed. This is a 10 bolt point of view, not a 12.

[ May 12, 2002, 02:41 AM: Message edited by: Garry Sr ]

[Rob B]

I've set a few ring and pinions up before by using a guestimate shim on the pinion and didn't have any problems but its been about 10 years since I've last done this. I've spent waaaaaayyyyy to much money in the last month in a half on the project at hand and a chunk of its on axles, spool and new gear and was curious if anyone found a special way of doing it themselves.

Tom V,
we've has so much rain in the last month that your method might not give an accurate measurement do to the water to dirt ratio. The consistenty of mud your using is probably a lot thicker than mine right now plus all the grass clipping made from the need of cutting grass every other day (between downpours) don't help either!

[Garry Sr]

Rob, it sounds like you know what your doing. The rear end hasn't changed any in 10yrs. If your really worried because of the cash investment then take it to a local shop.

[Rob B]

More worried about alzhiemers! Back then I didn't give a @#$% if it came apart or I screwed up. With age comes wisdom????? Nothings worse than having a kid at McDonalds call you sir, and mean it, when you still act and think a kid also!

[Rob B]

Hey Gary, do you re-use the crush leave? Or do you pre-crush a new one in a vise? Only reason I am replacing the ring gear is I had the fat (series 3) 4:10 and couldn't use it with the new spool. IF I remember right, I think I stuck a .028 shim on the pinion, set the backlash, and never had a problem. If it did make noise, you'd never hear it in this car!

[Tim Swain]

I re-use the old crush collor I've gotten away with it everytime. Instead of inch pounds I torque to 40LBs. If it doesn't work you should know right away, it'll sing to ya.

['ol Pinion head]

Totally agree with TTS on buying a pinion depth tool. Pinion depth does flucuate between gearsets. As an example, often on 8.5 corporates stock shim will be .040 or .041, often with aftermarket gears, will need .034-037. A few thousands is all it takes to make noise

If serious, buy a T & D pinion depth checker kit, then if you don't need it anymore, sell it on e-Bay, you should recoup real close to your initial investment, if not more. I've worn out one of the T & D's & use two other T & D's (one to double ck the other's calibration) when I'm building differentials. Keep the alum hubs greased & the caps clean & the hubs will last for a long time.

Always use a new crushsleeve...once in a blue moon, a used one will be thick enough to do the job in another housing.

Pinion drag...25 inch lbs with new greased ( Mystic JT-6) bearings & races. 15 inch lbs with used bearings & races. Can buy a cheap beam type inch lb torque wrench for under $15, if you don't need a high $$$ Snappy dial type.

[ May 12, 2002, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: ol' Pinion head ]

[TTS]

Totally agree w/OPH about the T&D machine pinion depth checker. It is the best bar none. I have tried all of the big tool co.'s & they are all crap. [img]tongue.gif[/img] - but a dial type inch# wrench rocks.

[ May 14, 2002, 12:35 AM: Message edited by: TTS ]

[Half-Inch Stud]

Ahem, my advice would be trash....As I set the pinion depth the wat Mr. Vought does.

Wing it, with intelligent guessing, based on the old pinion gear comming out.

Some advice:
Old gears are advantageous when they have the big pinion bearing on them.

Whem replacing the RACES in the housing...use the U.S.A races...not the Japan parts. OK to use the Japan bearings though. Does Timken mean anything anymore? Yes.

I had to reset a WAG 12-Bolt Gear install.. That meant doing it twice...really took the spit out of my stride.

Moral of the story: Make a slip-on Pinion bearing by honing the inside diameter out until sloppy. Then you will find use for your precision tools.

H.I. Stud

[Tim Swain]

Do it anyone of these ways, if it sings, you did it wrong and you'll have to try again.