[Sinystr79]

Hello all. Nothing too basic? Ok. Here goes. Wanted to change rear bearings and seals. Pulled cover off of rear, went to remove pinion shaft retaining bolt....Snnaap! Got it drilled, tried to use an easy out, but it aint budgin. Afraid easy out going to break off. You know the feeling you get just before that happens. Thats where I'm at. I can bolt cover back on, refill with new fluid, but bearing still going to need replaced. If that easy out snaps, I guess Im looking at replacing the whole rear? I am by no means a gear head, but learning as I go. This forum is a great source of info. Any ideas, suggestions on a fix or replacement is appreciated...Thanks...Scott

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[Sinystr79]

Hello all. Nothing too basic? Ok. Here goes. Wanted to change rear bearings and seals. Pulled cover off of rear, went to remove pinion shaft retaining bolt....Snnaap! Got it drilled, tried to use an easy out, but it aint budgin. Afraid easy out going to break off. You know the feeling you get just before that happens. Thats where I'm at. I can bolt cover back on, refill with new fluid, but bearing still going to need replaced. If that easy out snaps, I guess Im looking at replacing the whole rear? I am by no means a gear head, but learning as I go. This forum is a great source of info. Any ideas, suggestions on a fix or replacement is appreciated...Thanks...Scott

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['ol Pinion head]

There is a special lock pin bolt extractor for this. Matco sells it. The parts in the $20 kit include a 12-14" long 1/8" (might be 7/64") drill bit, a small cap scew which has a pilot hole in it, & a small square headed bolt extractor. You need this tool to be able to guide the drill bit into the center of the broken pin bolt. Without it, it is easy for a drill bit to wander & eat up the threaded area surrounding the lock pin bolt.

Method of removal...First remove passenger side bearing cap with a 5/8" socket. Next thread cap scew in until it bottoms out snugly against the broken pin bolt. Insert long drill bit in the pilot hole & exert pressure on your drill. After the drill has bored into the pin about an 1/8", you can insert the screw extractor & lightly rap it with a hammer. The extractor will stick to the broken pin segment, just have to turn CCW, & it will come out. On one instance, I had a pin bolt which was broke in 3 segments...still managed to get it out in the yard with the Dewalt. I have used this tool for over ten years. If you don't have access to a Matco truck, you can center drill the correct size capscrew in a lathe. Good luck & let us know how it turns out.

[Sinystr79]

Thanks for the help. Don't know if Matco comes by work, but I know Snap On does, so does Mactools. Guess my patience will be put even further to the test. Just got car back from tranny rebuild and flywheel cracked in three places, which mechanic told me they put new one on, but didnt document. Bought car in May under impression trans was rebuilt, and fell out of car two weeks later. Read about some fender kickin in some other posts, maybe that will help...lol. Thanks again. Will let ya know how it turns out...Scott

[old_lamanna]

I found a extractior kit on web from Fabbri Associates.com. Works great for broken pinion bolts. I've used it twice and it only took about 10 minutes both times with no damage!! Worth the price

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

There is a special lock pin bolt extractor for this. Matco sells it. The parts in the $20 kit include a 12-14" long 1/8" (might be 7/64") drill bit, a small cap scew which has a pilot hole in it, & a small square headed bolt extractor. You need this tool to be able to guide the drill bit into the center of the broken pin bolt. Without it, it is easy for a drill bit to wander & eat up the threaded area surrounding the lock pin bolt.