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#1
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Has anybody ever sent arp any bolts, that flew apart for them to check out? I sent my arp rod bolts, i believe they where not torqed properly. They have had my parts (piston, rod and bolt) a couple months. I hope they send me notice that the bolt was not installed properly, then i am going after the shop. Ken
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#2
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More details on your mess above?
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Tempest455 |
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#3
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Looks like the rod bolts are intact, but the cap grenaded
.Les
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
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#4
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ouch. specs?? what happened?
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************************************* 1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude |
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#5
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See my post- question for engine building shops. Ken
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#6
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i would highly doubt that the ARP fasteners were at fault here.
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************************************* 1968 Lemans. 37,000 original miles. GTO clone. 462ci/KRE 290 heads. UltraDyne 280/288 Solid/850 Qjet by Cliff/Performer RPM/TSP 9.5" in TH400/8.5" 3.42 gears/3950# Race weight/12.58@106 at Bandimere speedway high altitude |
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#7
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Perhaps Nuts were torqued, then Rod bearing wore & spun, then rod nut got loaded. Bearing wore more, Nut unloaded and Lost torque. Possible for Nut to spin off and got to pan unscathed.
Happened to me 15years ago. I over-rev'd the 455. HIS
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#8
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I've got paper weights like that! Anyway, would have to agree, looks like the bolts held & the cap came apart. What did the big end look like, discolored? Bet that boogered the head. I'm still trying to think-out how/why the piston came apart. Do you have a better pic of the piston/rod, like maybe from the side? What were the circumstances when it came apart, high rpm?
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#9
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4200 rpm, i will see if i can find more pics.
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#10
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This is the only other pic i have. I did talk to arp today and they said the rod bolt nut against the cap was shiny and will checking frther.
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#11
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Questions for building shop post
http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthread.php?t=389777 |
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#12
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This motor only had 10-15 miles??? It was using oil!
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Tempest455 |
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#13
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1000 miles
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#14
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Well i got a verbal from arp, he said the bolt was definately not torqed properly. I ask for a statement in writing, he said he would talk to someone else on that. They probably wont want to slap a hand that feeds them (the machine shop), hopefully they will help me out, maybe i shouldnt have said a shop did it, i did not give no shop names. Ken
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#15
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If you want it done right, um, how does that go again!?! I learned the hard way, and do all assembly myself. Always check machine work & tolerances. It's not that a shop is particularly good or bad, it's just humans make mistakes, can't (always) fault people for that. Not sure if pointing a finger will help either, but may make it so you can't use them again...
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#16
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I dont know enough about engines to check out things (I build houses not cars), so i hired a shop that was suppose to know what they are doing and stand behind there work, so they didn do it right or stand behind it, so i have to get experts and possibly a lawyer to get it done right(but not by them, i wouldnt take my motorless wheel barrow to them, which i shouldnt have to do eighter. People do make mistakes, I make mistakes, but make em right. Ken
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#17
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I understand, and it's always easier to give advise from the other side of the fence, or after the fact. Have they offered to rectal-fy the matter? Like, even if they offer to replace with one they built again, would you go that route? (rhetorical question). Well, I'd be interested to know how that all turns out, and who knows, maybe there can be a collection/fund of some sort to help offset your losses. I could probably donate a block, maybe some usable factory rods too...
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#18
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Is that a 400, or 55? And your intended use?
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#19
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hwystr455, thats a kind jester, thank you. I already have a waiting 455 built by another shop (car is being painted). The engine in the pics is my original numbers matching 389. The shop that screwed it up offered a crank, reclean block and heads, sleeve #7 cylinder, weld back the hole for the oil pump shaft and give me parts at cost, not enough to cover 5000.00 i first spent, then another 5000.00 on the 455, which i dont expect anything for that. I am putting the 389 away. Does your title name stand for highway star, thats my fav song, i saw deep purple in tampa i believe in 74 they did that song. thanks again Ken
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#20
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Ken; I'm with you on the, "They're the experts" (supposedly) stance. You hired them to build that engine, because THAT'S WHAT THEY DO!! If they screw it up; they should eat it; period! If you screwed up building their house; Who do you think they would come after to get it fixed? Yep; that would be you! That's the way this society is designed and supposed to work. However, I'm not sure that you have any right to hand them a bill for someone else's work; and expect them to pay it. I'm not sure on this, but maybe when a business screws up something that isn't theirs, (in this case, your engine), they have the RIGHT to the chance to fix their mistake. Again; from a legal standpoint I don't know what their rights are; but I think the legal process would view it as the company trying to do good by the customer, and the customer not letting them have a chance. Now, you look like the bad guy! (In their eyes). Like hwystr455 said: Humans make mistakes; it happens everyday. Of course; I also think the SHOP should be getting the parts at the shop's prices: NOT YOU getting the parts at the shop's prices! I'm sorry to hear about the whole deal: I can't imagine how pissed off and deflated I'd feel if I had put that much time and effort into a project and had the thing blow-up due to someone else's incompetence. Good luck getting the thing resolved!
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