[FLYNLOW]

I have a complete A4 2001 Trans Am I just picked up. I'm thinking of the beauties of the LSX design now and all the advantages. For what I do with my car, there is not a single disadvantage to the LS1. I drive my car hard, and it'd be nice not to have to worry about it stalling under hard braking or off throttle cornering. Shaving a few hundred pounds off the car can only be a great thing performance wise, and the damn bottom ends are nearly bulletproof. It would be nice for it to warm up faster. The mileage is nice. I use the car as a D/D. Retrofit cost is high though. I'd like to change that.

Anyway, being I have the entire car, what would I need to save/reuse to get this thing installed and running in my '73 as cheaply as possible? I figure the entire car is in my garage runnign right now, everything I really need is there besides things needed to make the darn thing fit. Looking for functional right now, not pretty.

I'm also thinking about keeping my BTO 2004R instead of the 4L60, just because its already built to Stage 3 specs. Assuming I do keep the 4L60E, Besides VATS(they have that VATS thing on ebay), and the rear 02's(sim's?) what specifically will need to be changed regarding the harness and the PCM? What might it be looking for that I could swap over?

I'm also kind of tossing around the idea of using the 01's gauge cluster, being it will receive the correct signals as is, and it looks kind of cool.

Heres a question... since my '73 steering column is very basic, no tilt, no dummer on the stalk, no wiiper delay, no cruise, etc, and if I can find a '81 T/A with those options... could I take the steering column, and then use the new column to be able to use the cruise control switch? Thats a mod I'd LOVE to have on an older car. Has anyone else set up a cruise control using the LS1 stuff? If so, how?

And further more,whats involved with modifying the harness? I found all the pin-outs over on LS1Tech, do I simply remove whatever wires I don't need? Ideally I'd REALLY like to do this, to get it in and running, as quickly and as cheaply as possible. I can tidy it up later. If it simply means pulling the wires, or even just leaving them disconnected and bundled up, I'll do it. Theres not a lot emissions wise on the LS1, and most of it looks like it will swap to the '73 fairly easy, with the exception of the evap system and the rest of the gas tank. Still not sure how I'm going to do that, Any ideas? I looked closer at the two tanks last night and that LS1 tank is tall, I don't think the fuel pump/sending unit it even going to be possible to make it work in the '73, and the only way to get the LS1 fuel tank into the '73 would be to cut the trunk out. I don't really wnat to do that, even though I cant remember the last time I even opened the trunk.
The other option is to keep my existing tank and put on an external fuel pump (Walbro 255?)Now, how would I do the return? I notice theres a "T" fitting under the 01, is that how the 01 regulates it's fuel return? If possible I'd like to keep that. The idea is to buy as little new parts as possible.

Thanks guys.

[andrewb70]

Make a post in the conversion forum on LS1tech.com:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=28

Andrew

[disc0monkey]

i could be wrong but keep the 02s and get a tune on that thing. im pretty sure u need at least the ones before the cats for the ecm to work. so there shouldn't be a huge change in readings from those sensors. although the one after the cat is the one that should have a major change of data. but im sure ur not running cats and a good shop should be able to tune the car, get it running close its highest potential, and get that check engine light off.
if u need any help on the electronics im a 3rd year Electrical engineering student let me know... I may be able to find some schematics

[FLYNLOW]

Well, if you can find the scehmatics for the cruise control on an 81 Trans Am and the 01, and can figure out if the '81 T/A cruise control switch will work.. That'd be interesting.

[RamAirZ]

Originally Posted by FLYNLOW

I'm also thinking about keeping my BTO 2004R instead of the 4L60, just because its already built to Stage 3 specs. Assuming I do keep the 4L60E, Besides VATS(they have that VATS thing on ebay), and the rear 02's(sim's?) what specifically will need to be changed regarding the harness and the PCM? What might it be looking for that I could swap over?

And further more,whats involved with modifying the harness? I found all the pin-outs over on LS1Tech, do I simply remove whatever wires I don't need? Ideally I'd REALLY like to do this, to get it in and running, as quickly and as cheaply as possible. I can tidy it up later. If it simply means pulling the wires, or even just leaving them disconnected and bundled up, I'll do it. Theres not a lot emissions wise on the LS1, and most of it looks like it will swap to the '73 fairly easy, with the exception of the evap system and the rest of the gas tank. Still not sure how I'm going to do that, Any ideas? I looked closer at the two tanks last night and that LS1 tank is tall, I don't think the fuel pump/sending unit it even going to be possible to make it work in the '73, and the only way to get the LS1 fuel tank into the '73 would be to cut the trunk out. I don't really wnat to do that, even though I cant remember the last time I even opened the trunk.
The other option is to keep my existing tank and put on an external fuel pump (Walbro 255?)Now, how would I do the return? I notice theres a "T" fitting under the 01, is that how the 01 regulates it's fuel return? If possible I'd like to keep that. The idea is to buy as little new parts as possible.

Thanks guys.

I removed all the unneeded pins from the computer and pulled all the wires through the harness out. The hard part for me was that my harness didn't come with the interior part that had the OBDII port. Since you have all of that yours should be pretty straight forward, just mkae sure to get power to all your power wires and of course ground your grounds lol. There are a couple constant and some ignition powered wires in the harness. I just ran a distribution block with fuses and ran all my wires to it. Had one main wire from the battery running to the fuse block. On the fuel side, you could easily run an inline fuel pump with your factory tank, instead of having to swap gas tanks. You could always pull the pump out of the LS1 car and modify your factory tank to hold it (I've seen that a few times). I personally am going with a sump kit and running braided lines to my A1000 pump, but I'm also going for forced induction so I want all the stuff I can get to keep it safe lol. If you have any questions shoot me a PM, I swapper an LS1/T56 into my 87' Iroc and it was originally a 305TPI/700R4 car

[FLYNLOW]

Actually, thanks. Been running the LS1/4L60E combo now for almost 2 months. I went ahead and dropped in the LS1/pump unit assembly (although its been extensively modified) into the stock '73 tank and used a 3rd gen sending unit. Also ran the entire 4th gen HVAC system... That wasn't an easy task.

[RamAirZ]

Originally Posted by FLYNLOW

Actually, thanks. Been running the LS1/4L60E combo now for almost 2 months. I went ahead and dropped in the LS1/pump unit assembly (although its been extensively modified) into the stock '73 tank and used a 3rd gen sending unit. Also ran the entire 4th gen HVAC system... That wasn't an easy task.

LOL sounds like you got it setup pretty good. Ya modifying the HVAC is a PITA lol, been there, done that.

[FLYNLOW]

I must say, I have no more doubts after tonight. Took the converted '73 out tonight to the track and clicked off a [email protected] cutting a 2.2 60 ft using a STOCK LS1 with a STOCK 4L60E with 3.08 gears. Just has full exhaust and a custom intake tube setup for it, and the car has not been tuned for the additional airflow. It hits the rev limiter slightly on the 1-2 shift. Car weighed in at 3440 with 3/4 tank of fuel without me in it. Power windows, 8 way power seat, tons of sound deadening, air conditioning, sway bars, heavy 17" TT2's etc etc. Car was raced as is driven everyday, didn't even air the tires down. Got a ton of positive comments and questions on it tonight, was a real showstopper in the staging lanes. This car has EASY 12's in it with some traction. Pretty stoked.

[vidguy]

That's so cool.. You did good Ian.. That project was a big one, and you did a fantastic job.

I have no "Chevy/Pontiac" issues with the swap.. It was a great Idea.
Kudos...

[rohrt]

Wow 13.1 with a stock LS1. How is the gas milage? I would like to see pics and what did you end up spending for the motor and to do the install.

[FLYNLOW]

$50 for mounts that don't work - fabbed my own.
$30 in steel to rebuild cowl for the 4th gen HVAC
$384 Headers
$325 Computer/Harness Mods
$600 Gauges/Air filter stuff/02 Extensions
$231 Mufflers/Filter/Throttle Cable/Reducers, another $150 for the rest of the system.
$70 Air Intake plumbing
$150 Misc. Wiring/Plumbing for fuel system
$90 driveshaft shortening/balancing.

The rest of the stuff I fabricated or modified of existing parts. Besides that, I bought the parts car, an '01 T/A for $4300 and parted out the car minus the drivetrain and fuel system and HVAC stuff. I still have a ton of parts laying around. I made $3300 back on the rest of the car and sold a lot of stuff cheap just to get the stuff moving. I kept the flawless black front and rear T/A seats as well. After selling the old 400/200$R I made quite a bit of money doing the swap. Fuel mileage the othe rnight to the track, racing, and back sitting in traffic for an hour was 22.1MPG, based on a friends odometer who went with me. It seems to get roughly 17 or so in town. I haven't figured out why my speedo doenst work yet so in town mileage is a rough guesstimate. I can tell you that the mileage is incredibly better than the 400 ever was and I don't baby the thing around a lot.

[FLYNLOW]

Heres a couple pics.

[OLDFLM72]

for twin turbos or a Novi/Vortec/Procharger!!!

[FLYNLOW]

Originally Posted by OLDFLM72

for twin turbos or a Novi/Vortec/Procharger!!!

Funny you say that, the manifolds fit like a glove when installed upside down.