The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-07-2006, 04:39 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: st louis mo area
Posts: 164
Default windshield removal?best technique

trying to decide the best way to get the front and rear windshield out of my 69 gto.Someone sells a removal kit but went to 4 different places and nobody has it.does anyone have a trick other than piano or guitar string(music store closed today-sunday)want to get this done asap to get the frame to the sandblaster.thought body will be much lighter with these removed,plus dont want them to crack.Im still not eactly sure how im gonna get the body off yet either.thanks for any and all replies.

  #2  
Old 05-07-2006, 05:15 PM
wlpsyp wlpsyp is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Alexandria, Louisiana
Posts: 1,135
Default

I did both of mine with weed eater string and a screw driver wrapped a couple times as a handle. Worked great.

__________________
_____________________________

It is not a problem.... It is just a blood pressure monitor.
  #3  
Old 05-07-2006, 07:15 PM
grdn24 grdn24 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: st louis mo area
Posts: 164
Default

thanks for the tip,ill give that a shot

  #4  
Old 05-08-2006, 02:41 PM
az67goat's Avatar
az67goat az67goat is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 923
Default

A tool is made that is pretty much like what has been discribed. I like this method the best. I have a seal cutting tool that is a blade but it is easier to break the windshield with it. The wind shield is easy to crack so be veeeerrry carfull. I have a Paint and Body book that discribes using a putty knife from the inside, slowly working your way around, pushing in wiggling, removing and pushing in again. If your windshield is installed using windshield caulk this stuff is a real pain, dries very hard and hard to cut. Once again, try the wire tool .

  #5  
Old 05-08-2006, 03:52 PM
marksking's Avatar
marksking marksking is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Florida
Posts: 180
Default Windshiled removal tool

I used a windshield removal tool. I had no problem, you just need to make sure you pull it slow, and keep downward pressure on the knife. If the glass has been installed in the last 20 or so years, they probably used urethane, weed whacker string will not cut it. Harbor Freight sells this tool.

  #6  
Old 05-09-2006, 05:55 PM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

i used to install auto glass............try this place..look at the cut out wire......http://www.equalizer.com/Merchant2/m...tore_Code=2004

  #7  
Old 05-09-2006, 09:33 PM
67 455 Bird ragtop's Avatar
67 455 Bird ragtop 67 455 Bird ragtop is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,456
Default

I used one of these. Got it off of ebay pretty cheap. I've also seem them at some of the tool places at flea markets. Cut through the goop on my 67 like butter. Took me no time at all to remove my windshield.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	16_2.jpg
Views:	178
Size:	3.1 KB
ID:	52507  

__________________
67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s
  #8  
Old 05-10-2006, 12:33 AM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

a great glass tool if you want to throw away the glass when its out..............................be very careful with this.....if it hits the glass it will chip it...........then you're done.

  #9  
Old 05-10-2006, 12:58 AM
Batman's Avatar
Batman Batman is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 550
Default

Mr. Pushrod- I've been using the pipeknife off that website you linked for years and its my favorite. After a few times you get a feel for "flexing" the utility blade in the channel and nothing is faster or more universal. well, unless you get one of those high $ heated blade thingies. The handle allows leverage but you have to be careful not to put pressure on the glass or "tick" and then you might as well just grab a hammer to finish the job. Sometimes I use the pipekife to cut away all the exposed adhesive to make the wire cut easier and sometimes the pipeknife can be used for the whole job. Depends on the shape of the windshield, the channel gap, interior panels, etc.

grdn24- I recommend practicing removal at a "yank and crank" junkyard to get a feel for it before doing your windshield- there is an endless supply of no-cost training. Also, nothing is harder than OE tapekits baked in the CA sun for 30 years. Bring extra blades.

I got a MAC Tools 90 degree blade/cable/t-handle cutter like 67 455 and I tried it once and now its gathering dust. Not recommended.

  #10  
Old 05-10-2006, 11:36 AM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

Pipe knives are great as well.......always use a new sharp blade.........
most people get ahead of themselves with pipe knives by going too fast
and then...........there goes your dash or paint..........not fun.
take your time removing glass, it's not a race.........I'd rather go slow than
ruin my car...........I've put alot of windshields in old cars..........i think they're the easiest to do.......

  #11  
Old 05-10-2006, 12:42 PM
67 455 Bird ragtop's Avatar
67 455 Bird ragtop 67 455 Bird ragtop is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Melbourne, Fl
Posts: 2,456
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman
I got a MAC Tools 90 degree blade/cable/t-handle cutter like 67 455 and I tried it once and now its gathering dust. Not recommended.
Guess I got lucky then. My windshield came out with no problems at all with that tool. It had been in my car since 1977 and I used the rubber ribbon stuff to install it and not the harder urethane stuff on teh market now. That may be why mine came out so easily Only reason I pulled mine was to replace the upper dash panel. Windshield didn;t leak but upper dash was in pretty sad shape. I'll put my glass back in once my motor and tranny are in to stay.

__________________
67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s
  #12  
Old 05-10-2006, 05:21 PM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

the new "urathane" is very hard once dried........
but it's the best.

  #13  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:02 PM
Batman's Avatar
Batman Batman is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 550
Default

Quote:
I've put alot of windshields in old cars..........i think they're the easiest to do.......
you bet, except them old stiff rubber double groove gaskets. Damn I hate those. I broke a 65 Ranchero windshield the type with the rubber gasket and the metal trim. putting the metal in, almost done just pushing it in the gasket and "tick" right across the corner. LOL

I think it's a whole lot easier to install with urethane since you can actually adjust the set after you place the glass where the tape kits you better get it right on first shot.

Oh yeah, if it has a windshield antenna make sure the lead is in the right place before you set it. I've done that more than once.

Another secret I learned over the years is to paint the windshield channel if you have to do alot of scraping. I see channel rustout here in California and I'm positive it starts from bare metal exposed during windshield replacement.

  #14  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:11 PM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman
you bet, except them old stiff rubber double groove gaskets. Damn I hate those. I broke a 65 Ranchero windshield the type with the rubber gasket and the metal trim. putting the metal in, almost done just pushing it in the gasket and "tick" right across the corner. LOL

I think it's a whole lot easier to install with urethane since you can actually adjust the set after you place the glass where the tape kits you better get it right on first shot.

Oh yeah, if it has a windshield antenna make sure the lead is in the right place before you set it. I've done that more than once.

Another secret I learned over the years is to paint the windshield channel if you have to do alot of scraping. I see channel rustout here in California and I'm positive it starts from bare metal exposed during windshield replacement.
those old rubber gaskets are easy to install with a rope.....
urathane is the best and safest......
90% of channel rust is from a retard putting in a windshield and not covering the scratches..............
the company 3M makes a one step PRIMER for scratches to prevent rust....
this is recommended!!!
if you use paint it must be 110% dry before applying the urathane.

  #15  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:36 PM
Batman's Avatar
Batman Batman is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 550
Default

ha ha, you got me Pushrod. I'm a old fart. There wasn't urethane when I started doing glasswork so we had to use paint. When I say paint now, I mean use this stuff. Why do I have 2? Because the little buggers are small and roll away, you buy another and then ta-da there's the first one.


Here is my trusty pipeknife. I tape extra blades to the neck


I don't recommend this. Looks new, eh? If you look close the blade is bent AND twisted. That is why the glass breaks.


I still hate hate rubber gaskets even using rope and windex unless they pop for a new one. I hope these pic's come out otherwise I'll feel pretty foolish

  #16  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:42 PM
Batman's Avatar
Batman Batman is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 550
Default

oops, that's the glass primer. must be Alzheimers use the black lid 8684 for the channel like pushrod said.


Last edited by Batman; 05-10-2006 at 09:49 PM.
  #17  
Old 05-11-2006, 02:53 AM
sstripes96's Avatar
sstripes96 sstripes96 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lawrenceville GA (Atlanta)
Posts: 157
Default

Im with Bird Ragtop. Picked mine up at an OReillys for $10 or $15. Had my windshield and back window out in under 90 minutes. Tried an old guitar string and broom handles. Just about lost 3 fingers.

__________________
Bud
Lawrenceville GA
73 Firebird
96 Impala SS
  #18  
Old 05-11-2006, 11:06 AM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman
ha ha, you got me Pushrod. I'm a old fart. There wasn't urethane when I started doing glasswork so we had to use paint. When I say paint now, I mean use this stuff. Why do I have 2? Because the little buggers are small and roll away, you buy another and then ta-da there's the first one.


Here is my trusty pipeknife. I tape extra blades to the neck


I don't recommend this. Looks new, eh? If you look close the blade is bent AND twisted. That is why the glass breaks.


I still hate hate rubber gaskets even using rope and windex unless they pop for a new one. I hope these pic's come out otherwise I'll feel pretty foolish
that 3M stuff is the best batman.....
i have the same pipeknife
i would recommend a new blade for that pull knife
try silicone instead of windex......or use a brand of glass cleaner like stoner, i think the stuff in a can is the best.

  #19  
Old 05-11-2006, 03:44 PM
jcruz's Avatar
jcruz jcruz is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 1,026
Default

I just used the handles from an old jump rope and threaded guitar wire through them. Have a helper on the inside and just work your way around the glass.

John

__________________
69 Firebird/TA clone
  #20  
Old 05-11-2006, 06:44 PM
MrPushrod's Avatar
MrPushrod MrPushrod is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Reno, Nevada-4500'
Posts: 1,464
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcruz
I just used the handles from an old jump rope and threaded guitar wire through them. Have a helper on the inside and just work your way around the glass.

John
nice......that's a Shade tree mechanic.........remember that show ?

Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:39 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017