[grdn24]

dropped my frame to get blasted tonight and was going to order a qt of eastwood extreme chassis black,then thought before i ordered id look around on here to see what others are using.Now im really confused,some say eastwood ,some say others ive never even heard of.Would like to do this right the first time,any suggestions would be appreciated.Did a search and sort of seems like owners choice on this issue.Since im no pro at this[learning curve on everything] i would like to do what is most durable and not all that difficult to spray. thanks

[sstripes96]

Waiting in anticipation for any answers. Im just about to the point of frame disassembly and top coat.

[norton70]

what u can expect is to continue to hear differnt opinions...i went thru this also...i ended up going with a quality ppg paint that i could add flattener to trying to get different shades of gloss...but only do this if u are bored...have money..and like to play chemist..its a time andmoney consuming game...the extreme chassis has a great sheen to it...plus it is always right in the can for u to do touch up...i just wonder about its ability to hold up to the elements...good luck and keep us posted on your decision

[eric65]

Ya know there are so many products out there now that this is open to many many opinions...so dont hold me liable i'madumba$$
When I did my first frame bout 20 years ago had it blasted and then veri primed(Self-etch primer) then top coated with black enamel well enamel chips like crazy so it wasnt the greatest...

Now a days I see people using this or that,,,,,>>> POR 15 Eastwoods so on..Powder coating if you can afford it..Epoxy primers ,,,,

I would say 1st powder coating is the absolute best if you can get it done and afford it...
On Hotrodders Forum they say the best most durable top coat for a frame is BaseCoat/ClearCoat which is highly durable but is going to be costly as well..of course needs to be sprayed on,

I have heard peeling stories from POR 15 and have some parts myself that are peeling coated with POR but maybe it wasnt prepped right>>

I would say you cant go wrong with this....if you cant do Powder coating
Frame is blasted very clean very nice Prime it with a good Epoxy primer after metal prep with phospo solution..
Top coat then with Eastwoods chassis coat .... this combo should make a very durable nicely finished frame.. Or you can use the BC/CC system, ppg dupont type top coat paints not as durable as BC/CC (Warning BC/CC will be very glossy imo too glossy, but durable)

If your frame cant be blasted or you just want to wire brush it leaving it not so clean...
Prime it with Master Series Urethane rust sealer... Then top coat with either Master Series Top coat (IS what I bought) Or Eastwoods chassis coat....

Another note the Master Series stuff has Isocaynates in it which is dangerous to breath...
Eastwood products are much more health friendly... I have used Eastwoods Rust encapuslator on parts with great sucess and find it very durable and a good finish and can be top coated with Eastwood Chassis coat or anything else..... Do this is another option and if I hadnt already bought the Master Serise stuffs I would use it..

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/good...ame-98391.html

Check this thread out over at Hotrodders.com forum there is some good info here as well..

Remember also the Eastwood POR15 and Master Series products can be brushed on with a foam brush and will settle out nicely and virtually leave no brush marks.... Epoxy primer could be as well but will look better sprayed. BC/CC, enamel, lacquers would be sprayed...

Sorry for long post
good luck
eric

[eric65]

Another point to remember dont beat yourself up too much on the frame after all its under the car.....
Your frame can be clean enough to eat off of but if you get a big ole "fish eye" on your hood no one will ever remember how nice your frame looked

[68ragtop]

What I did was had the frame sand blasted, spent over an hour blowing the sand out. Then used a product called "metal ready" I believe its just a weak type of acid that neutralizes the bare metal. Then two coats of PPG epoxy primer.

Then I top coated with 60% gloss, but felt it was too much, even though it was correct. So, I resprayed it with 30% gloss. It might not be correct, but it looks great.

Many people will spray 2-3 coats of black epoxy & just leave it that way. Not sure what the long term results are that way, but I know a lot of people do it.

If you can get the frame clean with all rust removed, I would seal it up with epoxy. I wouldn't use products like POR15 on clean metal. I believe they are more designed for metals that just won't shed all the rust areas

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Depending on what your final result is going to be these are some very good suggestions. I'm currently in the process of RE_PAINTING my frame after a failed first atempt caused by bad prep on my side. I stripped my frame with a airceaft stripper then a twisted knot wire wheel on my 4 1/2" grinder. Once it was cleaned to my satisfaction I put three coats of the Master Series silver primer/sealer on my frame. This stuff covers nicely. ALso, keep in mind I'm only working on the front sub frame at the moment. Then I used a single stage urethane from Matirx to top coat the frame. I used three good coats. I like a glossy finish and it came out real nice. I'll try and post some before and after pics later.

Main thing is prep. Get your frame as dirt and loose rust free as possible. Then use a good rust under coast like POR-15 or Master Series. I have switched to Master Series now. Especially since I have a local distributor. But get it a clean as you can. Then start painting.

[sharkbite]

Originally Posted by eric65

Another point to remember dont beat yourself up too much on the frame after all its under the car.....
Your frame can be clean enough to eat off of but if you get a big ole "fish eye" on your hood no one will ever remember how nice your frame looked

I hear that, I spent hours and hours making my frame spotless, all new nut and bolts, dropped the motor and trans in, installed all new suspention and broke in the motor with out the body. Then I dropped my so/so body on and all anybody can say is, looks like it needs some work.
It's hard to explain to someone that you have a perfect frame all dressed up nice and pretty.

I will say I used POR-15 and 5 years latter it still looks great.

[1970gpsj4speed]

I just picked my frame up yesterday from hyblast .they blasted it and epoxy primed it for me today i painted it with chassis black forom eastwood and im very happy with the results it sprayed on smooth it looks good .I did the rear also today .eastwood is catilized .i will post pix tomarrow

[Ken K]

Zinc plated hardware.

[jimmy daniel]

I chased that 60% for a long time. I tried products from everybody and I wasn't happy with any of them. Like you, I'm having a frame off done so I want it to be right. The PPG epoxy primer was probably as close as anything but none of the advertised 60% paints looked right to me. Almost always too shiney.

[norton70]

yea...that is why i flattened the ppg black paint....next time..im just going to buy eastwood chassis paint..no mixing...no worries....

[RR67GTO]

Dupont makes the correct color and even calls it by name. A gallon of it cost me $22.00 and unless the frame is down to shiny metal no primer is required. If so, a self etching is recommended. Also, don't forget store paints like Rustoleium (not sure on spelling) which is pretty much the same. I have used it on garden tools and it stays put. Hammerite has a funny look to it but it's also tuff. By the way the hammerite gold is a great paint for thinks like brake boosters if not doing a comcurse resto. And other things normally cad plated. I've done boosters, brackets, and even my sway bars in the black and it is tough. BUy it in spray cans, or in sizes up to a gallon for about $27.00. Also, again primer is not needed unless bare metal is being painted.

I seen something that made me think. An old car frame with the bottom rotted out in a few places. It was caused by mice living inside the frame and pissing inside it which ate right through the steel. So, be careful of mouse pee is't strong stuff. I'm thinking of training a stray cat to feel at home living in my frame when the car is not being used. Any ideas on this?

Mike

["Me"]

Originally Posted by RR67GTO

being painted.

I seen something that made me think. An old car frame with the bottom rotted out in a few places. It was caused by mice living inside the frame and pissing inside it which ate right through the steel. So, be careful of mouse pee is't strong stuff. I'm thinking of training a stray cat to feel at home living in my frame when the car is not being used. Any ideas on this?

Mike

Throw a few moth balls in the boxed sections on the frame. I use them on everything I'm storing that could be inhabited by critters. My seats are in a big garbage bag with a few moth balls in the bag, Mice hate them and will stay away.

Larry

[norton70]

"Dupont makes the correct color and even calls it by name", so what is the name?

[rub]

This ones epoxy

Rob

__________________
"There are questions to be answered, and answers to be questioned"

Chassis, Body Jig, Trunk Pan Pics.
http://webpages.charter.net/2manitowoc

Paint booth, Ventilation, etc.
http://www.2manitowoc.com/paintroom.html

[norton70]

i think this is the one somebody mentioned....it is made by Dupont...ready to shoot...no thinnning.

http://www.performancecoatings.dupon...son/422-05.pdf

[grdn24]

I ended up going with a product called chasis back in a satin that is designed for restoring classic car frames.Went to local paint sup. house and told them what i was doing and this is the stuff they recommended.Have no idea if it is 50% or 60% ect but looks good to me ill try and post some pics tommorow,and some info on the stuff i used.Never uused por but sounds like the same concept,says you can spray or brush on right over rust.Frame was blasted and sprayed and appears to be really durable stuff,like a rock hard finish with a semi gloss satin.Like others stated,we are talkin about a frame here.Need a few touch up spots i missed with the gun but looks real nice.Can says the lid will be bonded to the can because stuff bonds to metal so well,hope i can get it back open