Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-12-2007, 06:57 PM
DuaJudges DuaJudges is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 53
Exclamation CHEMICAL STRIP AND E-COAT--HELP

Everyone:

I need some help, please. Does anyone have any idea how much it should cost to chemically strip the body, frame, inner fenders, deck lid, hood, heater box, suspension, etc. (pretty much ALL metal parts) and e-coat? 1969 Judge hardtop. I am really hoping to get some opinions from people with experience. I hope not to create a debate on whether to strip or blast. In other words, the work has been done and I am trying to see if the price I have been given is reasonable or on another planet.

Thanks!

  #2  
Old 01-17-2007, 08:01 PM
klunde klunde is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 38
Default

I just had a quote from a company called Redi-strip, they are in Vancouver Canada, but I think have other locations.
They quoted me $7,000.00 for doing a 71TA not counting subframe.
I just about filled my pants.
Of course that's Canadian dollars. but the exchange isn't much any more.
If you found cheaper let me know.
Kurt

  #3  
Old 01-17-2007, 08:09 PM
DuaJudges DuaJudges is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 53
Default

Kurt:

Thanks and ouch! My 1969 GTO Judge was almost $6,000 and I nearly flipped. I was preparing and told it would be about 1/2 that. I know the job was done properly but that is a lot of money. I guess that is ballpark. Thanks for the response.

Troy

  #4  
Old 01-18-2007, 11:36 AM
SWEETJUDGE's Avatar
SWEETJUDGE SWEETJUDGE is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: STRATFORD CT
Posts: 5,217
Default

Guys these cars are worth soo much that the peolpe who work on & restore or prepare want the big bux too.....unfortunatley.

You get what you pay for..........Its usually cheaper to spend more to do it right the first time

  #5  
Old 01-18-2007, 12:22 PM
dr-doug's Avatar
dr-doug dr-doug is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Quincy Illinois
Posts: 900
Default

In my new shop that I'm finishing up in the next few weeks, I've got a seperate room for blasting. I was going to go with plastic media so I could do sheet metal as well as the normal suspention stuff. In doing some research, and talking with a patient of mine that owns a powder coating company, he said that the plastic is great on sheet metal but won't touch rust. He sugested aluminum oxide, it would do it all, not warp anything, and would be better than chemical stripping because that leaves a residue in seams that can and does leach out.
Epoxy priming after the blasting I've doing for as long as it's been around.
To bad some of you guys aren't a little closer to me, deals could be worked out that would save us all a bunch of money. I know I could blast an entire car in a weekend as long as I started early, after lunch the Lites start adding up and things slow down. 16 hours, even at a hundred an hour for the blasting, @500 dollars worth of material cost on the epoxy priming, and another @ 6hours performing that.
I come up with 2700.00 for an entire car, charging 100.00/hour. Even if I'm off 50% on time or money, at that same fictional 100/hour, I can only come up with a cost of 4K.....
The most I've had invested in a car in the last 3 years is @ 45K, and I bought it for 22, and we're talking frame off nuts and bolts, quarters, everything.
I guess some people like to work on them, some like to own them, and those that do or can do both are a minority...DW

__________________
71 SILVER AUTO JUDGE
70 RED AUTO III JUDGE
70 GOLD AUTO III JUDGE
70 SPECIAL ORDER SABLE BLACK 4SPEED III JUDGE
70 ATOLE BLUE AUTO GTO
69 C.RED 4SPEED III JUDGE
67 WHITE 4SPEED 400 VERT FIREBIRD
65 MAIZE 4SPEED TRIPOWER VERT GTO
65 TURQ. 4SPEED TRIPOWER VERT GTO

WANTING A IV......
20 other non-pontiacs which need to be thinned down so I can buy more PONTIACS
  #6  
Old 01-18-2007, 08:16 PM
JLHarper's Avatar
JLHarper JLHarper is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 3,048
Default

I have heard the negative comments about chemical strip leaching out of cracks as well.
I wonder if that was more descriptive of hand stripping using paint on strippers like used to be used in backyard shops? Aircraft stripper, and such that was globbed on.

The big stripper in NC is months backed up on cars and parts, so plenty are using this method. He was nine months out at one time, but does other large equipment. There are two I know of in NC and SC.

I know some dip, then either power wash or rinse in stages to get off any left over chemical. I bet they do a really good job of getting it clean in rinse, but never used myself. I would go look first, but might use as it gets it clean in spots you cant blast into.

I would seriously doubt that this would be the norm (leaching)

The big downside I see is it removes factory sealers at seans that might not be in good position to have replaced on car where original panels are to be used again. Plus porous metals (if present) get damaged.

Many companies will dip in some phosphate bath soultion as option at end that allows for some rust protection, but another downside is cavaties (no pun there Doc) cant be painted that cant be seen/easily accessed.

I read of another method that involves submersion but not in chemicals. Saltwater maybe and positive/negative charge? Anyone know?

Yes, to bad not closer. I would chip in for a share to use.

Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:59 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017