[Johnny GTO]

I just bought a three piece trunk panel kit for my 68 gto. The parts sticker says 68-72 a-Body. There are some sections that are different than my original. Is this common for reproduction trunk panels?

[GStage1]

Minor variance is common.....most likely you have a Chevelle trunk pan kit.

[CraigGT37]

I bought a kit for my 71 and the ribs on the floor at the tailpanel are different I modified them to fit and look correct.
Craig

[PrimeredPontiac]

Originally Posted by CraigGT37

I bought a kit for my 71 and the ribs on the floor at the tailpanel are different I modified them to fit and look correct.
Craig

i had to do the same when replacing the outer 3rds of the trunk floor in my 70 GP

[Johnny GTO]

I am cutting out the old floor tommorrow. I never did this before. I'm a little nervous about it.

[GStage1]

Read my article on our site to get an idea what is required:

http://www.buickperformance.com/TrunkPan.htm



If you need more help, let me know.

[Johnny GTO]

Thanks GStage1,
That is one informative page that you made. I noticed that you did this with the frame out. I was told by a few guys that it is better to do with the body on the frame so the new panels will sit square. I lowered the body back down on the frame last Friday. I started to get ready to cut the spot welds only to find that the frame is in the way. Would you suggest putting the car back up in the air?

[GStage1]

I do the metal work with the frame out of the way since it is easier to weld in the trunk braces.

If your braces are good, you can do the pan while the body is on the frame.

I never had a problem installing the pans w/o frame since the body is supported properly.

You can drill out all the spot welds from inside the trunk. I don't know where the frame is in the way in your application.

[Johnny GTO]

Thanks, That would be alot easier than bolting it back on the frame, plus alot easier to weld if the frame is out of the way.

[Johnny GTO]

GStage1, How does it look? I tried duplicating yours.

[Matador-IV]

Looks really good....surprised your trunk rusted out while the braces look so good.

What kind/brand of bit did you use to drill the spot welds out?

The 2 spot weld bits I bought were junk....I think $13.00 each.

[Johnny GTO]

The brand is Blair. It cost $16.00 for the main bit. I bought replacement cutters for $16.00 for a 3 pack. I blew 6 edges out doing the trunk. I kept losing the spring loaded center pin every 2nd or 3rd hole. That kept ticking me off. Its like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

[Johnny GTO]

I just got a doner trunk panel from a 70 Skylark today that is in real nice shape. I may take back the new 3 piece that I bought in favor of it. I can't believe the slight differences between the gto, chevelle and the skylark.

[md1twal3]

Originally Posted by Johnny GTO

The brand is Blair. It cost $16.00 for the main bit. I bought replacement cutters for $16.00 for a 3 pack. I blew 6 edges out doing the trunk. I kept losing the spring loaded center pin every 2nd or 3rd hole. That kept ticking me off. Its like trying to find a needle in a haystack.

Well, except the expense, I am glad to see that I am not the only one that tears up spot weld bits! I ended up going to a cheap step bit from harbor freight. Has worked awesome!

BTW....I would use the donor pan too. a bit less work and original factory metal vs. aftermarket is always a plus!

[GStage1]

Looks great! Nice clean metal!

I tried to use the spot-weld drill bit with little success.

I use the titanium-nitride (gold color) bullet-tip dril from Home Depot and it works great...I believe it is 5/16"