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#1
07-23-2007, 09:21 PM
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I have ZERO crank endplay, what to do?
67 400 block. New cast 4 inch stroke crank from Dave at Enginecraft. FM bearings, standard size. Had the crank in the block, caps torqued down. Put on the dial indicator, set it to zero with the crank all the way to the back, and pried the crank forward. I have ZERO end play. I took off the # 4 cap, and tried it again, and I have 3 thou endplay. What is my next step here guys?
Jake
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Saving the world... One country at a time. 
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#2
07-23-2007, 09:33 PM
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Have the thrust surface ground and or polished.
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1964 GTO 501, Edelbrock Heads NA, 3460 lbs. 9.76 @ 137mph 1971 Trans Am Lucy Blue, 11.56 @ 115 1966 LeMans. 462, SD prepped Kaufman D ports. 11.90 @ 112 1976 Trans Am twin turbo 462, SD Edelbrock heads 8.50@159 2009 G8 GT |
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#3
07-23-2007, 09:43 PM
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Can I sand down the thrust side of the bearing?
What is the width of the space between thrust surfaces of the crank? Jake
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Saving the world... One country at a time.
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#4
07-23-2007, 09:55 PM
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Sounds like you haven't seated the thrust bearing. Did you knock the crank forward and back after assembly? Most assembly instructions outline knocking the crankshaft forward and back to "seat" the thrust bearing. Just a thought about a commonly over looked step. JD
Edit: visualize the thrust bearing as a taco or clam shell over the main saddle and cap. By tapping/driving the crank forward/back you are pushing the thrust surface towards the saddle/cap creating a clearance.
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Good luck to the new owner of the Ventura II! Sold the car after 13+ years. Look for it on the Hot Rod Power Tour in the future as it's currently being re-configured as a Pro-Touring ride! 
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#5
07-23-2007, 10:07 PM
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I did that, little effect if any.
I just went and checked the width of the thrust saddle on the crank. It came out to be 1.1390. I checked out a 3.75 stroke crank I had wrapped up, it was what came in the block... 1.1440. That is 5 thousandths. And that is where my end play went. I also measured the thickness of the thrust bearing, and it is 1.1360-1.1370. Thats 2 thousands of clearance. So it is the crank. In addition to all of this, the crank wont turn fully in the block. The front counterweight hits the block where that rather large hole is on the oil pan rail. The rear counterweight hits some casting flash at the bottom of a bore. The rear won't be a problem to clear up, aside from the metal shavings in a assembly clean engine. The front, about 1/8th inch or more material has to be removed from the place where it hits. I will be calling Dave tomorrow. Jake
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Last edited by SGTGTO; 07-23-2007 at 10:17 PM. |
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#6
07-23-2007, 10:16 PM
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On any of the Eagle type stroker cranks when put in a 400 block will need the front 'hole' clearanced along with checking for some other interference spots.
I'm surprised you even got the crank in the block without clearancing that front spot.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#7
07-23-2007, 10:23 PM
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Fair enough.
So do I send it back, and get the thrust surface ground, and put the entire car on hold for atleast a few more weeks, or do I sand down the thrust bearing 6 thou?
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Saving the world... One country at a time.
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#8
07-24-2007, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
1: Yes, Flat sand the one side of the bearing. Have done it before on different makes without any issues. |
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#9
07-24-2007, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Here ya go. |
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#10
07-24-2007, 09:34 PM
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Years ago it was common, as Ken mentioned to "flat sand" the thrust on a piece of flat glass with some very fine grit sanding paper. Works very well as Ken mentioned. The glass is the key.
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#11
07-25-2007, 06:42 AM
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I agree, just open it up to about .004-.005" clearance. I would sand the front sides only. We also add a couple of "teardrops" to the flat rear surface on both halves, and take a jewelers file and add an oil path from the center to the rear one of the bearings at the parting line.....Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
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#12
07-25-2007, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...earingmod.html You can notice the scallop from the factory that contains the oil. Most bearing are straight thru without the end mods. But the Ford hi-perf bearing has the side mods. |
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