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#1
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Minnie Starter
What is you experiance, do they normally need shims or are they all different?
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#2
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My RobbMC worked without any problems.
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#3
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TITLE QUOTE by hobbygto65: "Minnie Starter"?
Another vote for Robbmc. High quality piece. I recommend the optional pinion support. My old McLeod unit was a real "Mickey Mouse" unit!
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___________________________________ "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear" |
#4
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I already have the starter, just didn't come with shims. Most all the stock starters I've ever seen all needed shims. So I wasn't sure on the minnie.
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#5
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My summit mini came with shims, didn't need them. Easy to adjust away from headers
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#6
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I have the powermaster,needed 1 shim.
You need to check it. #1 paper clip works nice to check it.
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9.81 at 139.89mph 3400lbs Butler 468,11.3:1 comp,N/A,PUMP 93 OCT GAS! 370cfm butler eheads port matched victor 1095 king demon 4.30gear,th400 MICKEY THOMPSON DRAG RADIAL tire |
#7
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i have the jegs mini, got it when it came on sale awhile back for 69 bucks thrue jegs. mine needed 1 or 2 shims i can remember but it worked great. until i got a ground problem, hopefully once fixed itll work good again just kinda slow now
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http://performerrpm.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php? |
#8
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Minnie Driver?
Oh minnie starter,lol.
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Derek B. Current best: 11.97@110 1.65-60' !!! '74 ventura, (Fired july 14/06) '74 462 4-bolt (9.5-1), SCAT, Ross, T-II w/850DP (shaker455), TH350, Conti 10'' 3800, Supercomps, Magnaflow, 3'' Pypes, 3.73's, 28x13.5-15 ET streets. 1970 Beismeyer 17' flatbottom vdrive, 11.8:1 455P, ported heads, dual Qjet tunnel ram. |
#9
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my Summit style mini starter didnt need any shims...bolted right up
good luck
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1970 LeMans 462 E-heads, 400 trans, Moser 12 bolt rear with 3.73s, Pypes 3" X system/violator mufflers, BMR handling package with 275 Mickey Ts out back 94 TransAm couple bolt-ons 03 F150 SuperCrew Fx4 88 Mustang LX T-Top 5-speed |
#10
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What ever brand you have or go with simply follow the mfg's installation instructions. Just throwing it on there without checking clearances COULD be expensive. I also use a RobbMc. DON'T SIMPLY THROW IT ON THERE BECAUSE OTHERS NEEDED NO SHIMS.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#11
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With the summit, shims were supplied, I checked and the paper clip test was perfect without them. I've needed up to 3 shims with stock type starters in the past. The minis are great for both more space to install and also for those who have to lay on their back under the car with barely noseroom, the mini is light enough to lift and hold in place with one hand while finding and starting the bolts with the others, all without spraining your wrist. The smaller size gives you more options on which way to run your starter cable/wiring as well. You are really replacing 60 yr old technology with a much more moderm design.
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#12
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I just installed my Summit starter. Did anyone have any problems with the starter not releasing after the engine starts? I have this "whoosh" noise after the car starts. I checked the clearance and everything looks fine. I tried it with no shims, 2 shims and 4 shims - still the same. The tech line seemed to think this was normal.
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#13
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Do yourself a favor before you install it wire it especialy if you have headers your forarm skin will thank you for it! lol!!
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#14
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Robbmc told me that because permanent magnet starters are generators in reverse the residual magnetism will make current that will keep the pinion engaged if you do not wire it correctly.
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#15
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I'm running a remote start solenoid as well. I hooked up the new starter to the positive cable and jumped it to the other terminal on the starter. Just like it was hooked up when it was connected to the stock starter. Do you think this is causing a problem and doesn't work for the perm magnet type?
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#16
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Robbmc said not to wire remote solenoids like that. That will cause the starter to do what you say it is doing. Wire it like the stock wiring. I think I just had to take the cable from the back side of the Ford solenoid and put it on the front with the cable from the battery. Then then terminate the "S" terminal on the starter to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.
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#17
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I'll just take the remote solenoid out of the loop, remove it and wire it up like stock. I'm hoping I don't need the remote solenoid anymore with this new starter. Thanks track73!
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#18
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Well I wired it up the same as a stock starter would be wired. Didn't seem to make much of a difference. I guess it's the way it supposed to sound....
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