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JDSTRIPES · 03-13-2009, 12:17 PM

After searching the forums I was able to get the insrument panel out of my car. It has rally gauges,clock and factory stereo. Now I have a few questions. How does the ignition switch come out? I have tried to press the release spring with a paper clip but i cant seem to get the cylinder to come out. Are ther any good repro. dash pads available? I thought I was really lucky when I came across a restored pad at the east coast regionals but, after removing the original and comparing the two, the brackets on the back are totally different.(SEE ATTACHED PIC)
Chrome and gauge restoration?Any recomendations good or bad would really be appreciated. Lastly the radio, I was going to upgrade the stock case with modern internals but the guy I contacted said that would be a mistake being a factory stereo. It does work,but only gets a couple of stations.also the front speaker was moved to the rear deck and both the front spkr. and multiplex brackets are missing

gtohunter · 03-13-2009, 02:07 PM

Stripes,
The ignition tumbler should come out, by sticking the key in, turning to acc. position (i think), and then pushing the paper clip into the hole. while pushing the paper clip in, turn the key further to the left, and it should release and slide out.
As far as the dash pad, I bought one at "the parts place" only to find out it didn't fit. (looked the same as the pic of yours). The biggest issue was that the thickness of the padding tapered off to nothing from drive to pass. side on the leading edge. It otherwise didn't look too bad, but not much better than my dash cap. I "rechromed" my bezel with killer chrome; depends on what leveal of resto you're looking for.........http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=524244
Can't help with the radio...I transplanted the guts out of a 70 something into my 68 case, and it works (am), but I never listen to it anyway; just wanted it correct looking. Grandkids asked me the other day if I could put a cd in...LOL

webfoot · 03-13-2009, 02:22 PM

Had mine plated by CV vacuum platers. Very happy with the results.

JDSTRIPES · 03-13-2009, 03:17 PM

Web, that looks great.CV was one of the places I was considering I think they start at about 500.00 for the 3 main ppieces than I have the a/c vents on top of that. I heard Eastwood has a chrome look paint process that was used by a fellow py member. I checked the reviews on the Eastwood site and ther wasnt one that was positive.
Hunter, had the key in acc. position. Can feel the spring but did not try turning the key any further. I will give it a try. I think part of the problem is the key is so worn it pulls right out of the cyl. I am assuming it would be used as a handle to remove the cylinder

webfoot · 03-13-2009, 03:21 PM

They have a website that gives their pricing. IIRC It was $365 when I had mine done last year. They are in canada but have a US address you can ship to.

JDSTRIPES · 03-13-2009, 03:28 PM

Hey..I just checked to link to the killer chrome thread and that looks pretty good. Hows it held up so far? Also what did you guys do for the woodgrain? Ive got two layers. 1 thin vinyl over the original that has some substance to it. I would think the pattern in the surface of the dash might show through the vinyl.

gtohunter · 03-13-2009, 03:39 PM

Stripes,
I left my woodgrain on, as it was in great shape. Just masked everything off, and sprayed it.

Greg Reid · 03-14-2009, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDSTRIPES

Hey..I just checked to link to the killer chrome thread and that looks pretty good. Hows it held up so far? Also what did you guys do for the woodgrain? Ive got two layers. 1 thin vinyl over the original that has some substance to it. I would think the pattern in the surface of the dash might show through the vinyl.

I replaced my woodgrain when I did mine. I bought the replacement from Ames and it was very thin. I did not like it at all. The pattern did not show through it as it's rather brittle but it popped up in the convex area between the middle and right pod. It was made by R.E.M.
My original (?) was quite thick and I'd wished that I'd kept it later but wound up buying another from PY. It was much thicker than the one from Ames and I'm pleased with it. This thicker one was made by PUI and cost twice as much as the Ames one. Much better quality and worth the extra.
The only thing I didn't like about it was the white backing. I used a magic marker to go around the white edge as I was afraid it would show when placed.

JDSTRIPES · 03-15-2009, 10:20 AM

I did as gtohunter suggested and the lock cylinder came right out. While comparing Gregs and Jeremy's dash panels I see that Greg's is chromed where all the switches mount. Probably not visible when installed though, Jeremy, did CV paint the the gauge openings or did it have to be done later?

Greg Reid · 03-15-2009, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDSTRIPES

I did as gtohunter suggested and the lock cylinder came right out. While comparing Gregs and Jeremy's dash panels I see that Greg's is chromed where all the switches mount. Probably not visible when installed though, Jeremy, did CV paint the the gauge openings or did it have to be done later?

Right, I left it silver only where it would be covered by the knob bezels. I did paint a thin outline of black around every gauge opening as well as the heat/ac control and turn signals. Those areas will show a thin line of chrome when the veneer is in place and it won't look right.
Good tech article on finishing a rechromed dash panel at HPP that will apply here-They also show how they painted the gauge openings..
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ion/index.html

JDSTRIPES · 03-15-2009, 12:46 PM

Great link. Thanks Greg that will be very useful

Greg Reid · 04-09-2014, 12:56 AM

Well, 5 years almost to the month and my wood-grain has totally lifted and shrunken.
Does anyone know of a good wood-grain that will last? This will be my third attempt at this and it's no fun pullin the dash on these things!
I'm about ready to go to the hobby shop and get some 1/64 ply!

Verdoro 68 · 04-09-2014, 01:41 AM

I did my dash almost 10 years ago. I bought the wood grain from PY too so I bet we have the same stuff. There's a few inconspicuous spots where the woodgrain has lifted but it's largely still in great shape. I'm kind of surprised to be honest. I stuck it directly on to the pebble texture - without the factory aluminum backing and didn't expect it to really stick for long.

I see they now reproduce the aluminum backing, but it ain't cheap ($75). Even though mine is in good shape, I've been thinking about sticking in a set of rally gauges so I'll probably redo it with the proper backing when I pull the dash.

Greg Reid · 04-09-2014, 03:22 AM

Yeah, I was pretty taken aback myself. Thought I was done with the dash area for the most part. I saw that aluminum backing...I never even knew that it had an aluminum backing as mine had nothing under the other wood-grain that I removed.
Not sure what to do at this point. I'd really hate to have to do this again every few years.
Here's what I'm dealing with...

Greg Reid · 04-09-2014, 03:27 AM

Oh, and notice that it hasn't lifted from the actual dash surface.....the wood veneer applique has actually separated from the white adhesive backing.

Verdoro 68 · 04-09-2014, 12:19 PM

Woah, mine has held up much better than that. It's barely lifting from some of the curved portions of the dash, you have to look to find it. I wonder if it's a benefit of the California climate?

Greg Reid · 04-09-2014, 01:34 PM

It may be the climate. It got colder and stayed cold longer than usual here but you would think that when they sold these cars back in the '60s, many of them spent their entire lives outside in all kinds of weather so...obviously, something is very different about the re-pop stuff and the original. Very disappointing to say the least.
I've been disappointed with about 80%~90% of all the repop stuff I've bought...but, it's better than nothing.

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