[judgethis]

I finally got the blower motor to work, bad blower relay. Checked over the system and got no heat. A/C works good. I think its a temp door problem and was wondering if the door is vacuum or electrically operated. The heater core lines are hot and it is not leaking coolant.

[Lightfoot]

If the car has sat for more than a couple weeks at any given time, there could be a mouse nest inside the heater box. That's what happened to my car. Winter before last, it sat outside. Last fall I noticed no heat at all coming from the ducts.

This spring I flipped the blower on and it was making abnormal noise at high speed.
Took the blower out and there was enough chewed up hood insulation in there to choke a mule. I could still get neutral air to come out the vents, but it was completely blocking the the air from the heater core. They even knawed off bits of the swirl cage. If they had gotten through that, they would have been inside the car.

Anyways, I'd be checking for that even if you don't think the car sat still long enough.

[judgethis]

Thanks light foot Ill check it out. The car didnt sit but the HVAC system was not used since April due to the blower relay not working.

[mike nixon]

Make sure BOTH heater hoses are hot. If that's got a 3.0 in it they've got a habit of rust in the cooling passages and he cores plugging up.

Mike

[69gp400]

have your heater core flushed,unless you have a free weekend to change the core.you hAve to drop the dash to attemt to change it.it is a well known problem with the taurus.if the car is just a winter beater car you are better off cutting the firewall like i did to access the core then silicone the firewall after.they charge 300.00 to 550.00 to change around here

[mike nixon]

BACK FLUSH THE HEATER CORE

[Geeto-Tiger]

If both inlet and outlet heater lines are hot, the core is probably fine. The temp door has an electric actuator and it is prone to failure. The replacements are not too expensive but it is difficult to access. Also could be a bad temp switch on the control if you are lucky. You can jumper the actuator to see if it moves and if so, just park it in the heat position for the winter and adjust the blower speed for comfort till you get time to fix the real problem. You need to find the common signal and either the motor + or - signal (can't remember which direction for heat). If it doesn't move, it has to be replaced. If the motor runs but the door doesn't move, it has a stripped gear. You can access the actuator connector under the dash on the pass side. You can go to amazon and buy an EVTM for ~$10 and it will give you the connector numbers and color codes of the actuator wiring. Shouldn't be too tough. Good luck!

[69gp400]

flush the heater core

[judgethis]

Back in June the engine was replaced due to overheating(neighbors son drove it till it almost died). I knew it leaked form either a head gasket or cracked/warped heads. I didnt have time to put in a new motor so I found a Ford tech to due it on the side. I told him it needed major work and would be cheaper to put in a used motor. He told me the 3.0 had problems with coolant passages clogging up and that there was a bulliten to to remove the freeze plugs and flush the block. Like Mr Nixon stated.
Well after him doing this and replacing the water pump, which the vanes were gone, he found out the motor leaked coolant from the heads. I hate it when people dont listen and waste my time.

He told me he flushed everything out but there is that possibility that it maybe partially clogged.

I noticed also that when I turn the selector knob to dash and floor the a/c compressor turns on. I didnt think that was normal.

My neighbor was so happy to find out his a/c worked but of course its fall and doesnt need it now so Ill try to get his heat working. I was thinking it would be a door problem. maybe stuck in the cold position..

Its easy enough to flush out the core so Ill do that as well.
Thanks for the tips guys

[Bjorn]

I once had a car that had no heat , found in this car (a 65 Fiat) that the rubber piece in the heater control that moved in /out to close off the heat had swelled and didnt allow heat thru when "open"...a little trim with a sharp knife fixed that