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#1
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Just got my heads back from the machinist, one of the things i had done was have the guides machined for positive type seals, is there a recomended way to install the seals on the guides also I have a new heater fitting for the heads what is the easiest/best way to fit this.
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#2
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And I use just a tiny bit of silicone lube as well,but only on the stems,not where the seal pushes over the guides. There are some VS seal installer tools on the market as well,but the job can be done without them. I dunno,it's kinda hard to explain,you just sorta develop a feel for something like this. The heater fitting,that's easy,put some sealant on it (permatex aviation or hylomar) where it presses into the head and use a deep well impact socket & a BFH and smack that sucker in there. HTH Bret P. |
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#3
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I made a driver for them, with a very precise fit over the top to push them straight down without damaging the molded seal portion, or the metal outer shell.
Those seals are easily damaged driving them in place with a poor fitting driver. I made the driver in my lathe, but I'm sure someone sells an exact part to put them in place without distorting them......Cliff
__________________
If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
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#4
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It depends on WHICH "positive" seal is being used. The "Teflon" (white with silver "rings") seals are VERY persnikity, as Cliff alludes to. The "condom" (plastic sheeth) that comes with them must be employed, along with a bit of lube (we use assembly lube in a bottle). There are ready-made installers, usually white plastic. Getting them "started" over the valve tip is the more critical part, as they can be distorted or "scraped" at that time. Once started down the stem, keeping them "in line' is the key.
If the Viton (black, rubberish, rings), they're a bit more "forgiving" as they can stretch without distorting. Using the sheeth is still recommended. Usually, they can be pushed over the top of the guide by "hand". The Teflon-lined version (OEM) must be installed carefully, as the Teflon insert can easily come out, making it no longer "round". SC's method of installing the heater hose nipple is the simplest way we've found, too. FWIW Jim |
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#5
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X 2 on the nipple BFH does it every time. LOL.
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#6
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__________________
1969 GTO hard top ~ Std bore 400, '70-RA3 block, 670 heads, Bal. & Blue... M22, 12-bolt w/3:55s |
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#7
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"QFT" ??? Forgive my non-computer familiarity. What does QFT "stand for"? Probably something simple... I'm a dummy from time to time...
Jim |
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#8
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QFT is an acronym for quoted for truth which means one supports or stands behind an opinion
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There is no such thing as too much cam, just not enough engine. 1966 GTO - 11.31@119 (3478 lbs) in 1979 1967 Firebird - 9.73@138 (2940 lbs) in 1986 400 cu in / 295-298 cfm RAIV / Lunati Cam 278/283 - .704 lift/5.13 gears |
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#9
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You crazy kids with your acronyms!
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Let me have a Diablo sandwich and a Dr. Pepper and make it fast---I'm in a goddamn hurry! - Mike 1967 GTO |
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