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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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endura repair
Went thru all the threads on this.
Need to repair a few minor spots on a 70 Judge. Last endura repair I did was 35 yrs ago. As crude as it may sound I used aircraft stripper and a wire brush,followed by DA and 80 grit. I sure products and methods have changed....... I was at local Dupont suppliers today getting a color match for the Judge and asked the Dupont rep what his recommendations were: take this with a grain of salt. Strip all old finish(thats a given) 2k primer with a little bulldog in mix no sealer BC with a small bit of bulldog CC with nothing added. Not sure I want to redo this later so input is suggested. I also need to fix a couple small booboos so what 3M stuff is best and what prep is needed.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#2
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Not as much has changed as you would think. What I ended up doing was using 3m flexible parts repair. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...glLXCCKC564Xbl
Use the 3M adhesion promotor and the stuff sands and feathers very well. It is almost as easy to use as typical body fillers like rage etc. After my bumper came back from soda blasting I scrubbed it with hot soapy water then blew it dry. I ground out the larger cracks with a dremel and then DA's the small ones down with an 80 grit disc. I used the parts repair to skim coat the entire area and feathered it back using 80 grit on the block, then finished with 180. I used a specialty PPG flexible primer, blocked that with 220, added another coat and wet sanded with 400 to a minimum mil thickness. My painter took it from there where I believe he used Glasruit sealer with flex, base coat and clear with flex again with my instructions to minimiize the mil thickness. My bumper looks perfect but was only painted a few months ago but has not seen the light of day. I am very happy with the way it turned out and think that I have done just about all that can be done to minimize cracking.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#3
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I got a few PM's re: the PPG primer. I ended up only using about 1/2 of a pint and the stuff is expensive IMO. This is what I used: https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...9-b7ae615bd6da
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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what I used to do to test adhesion and flexibility is to paint a piece of poly sheeting(visqueen)
Havent test any for a few years so need to catch up
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#6
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Nope but you are probably opening up a sore spot with that question: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...t=endura+paint
Anyway, due to the lack of actual testing, I just went with the product specifically designed for what I wanted to do and have my fingers crossed. On another note, my painter completed the welting for my flares as he had to order some "super flex" from glasruit. He applied the same primer used on bumper and same BC/CC that was used on the bumper as well. I got them back and you can tie the welting in a knot and nothing bad happens.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#7
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I read no paint strippers they absorb right in and cause paint issues later. I read after i tried it.
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73 GTO 455 TKO 600 3.90 |
#8
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Quote:
I sold what was left to a vette guy.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow Last edited by Cammer-6; 01-19-2011 at 07:46 PM. |
#9
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The flex text is back on... I'll start another thread...
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Paul FAST Automotive -The Pontiac restoration shop, not the fuel injection guys! I had the name first. My site... needs updated- www.fastrestorations.com 68 GTO's (RA II, RA I, HO, convert, Pro Street, Racecar, etc.), 2 69 GTO Judges, 70 GTO racecar -10.77 @ 124mph, 68 Tempest survivor, 3 03 Aztecs! |
#10
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#11
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just got the endura blasted down to factory primer
will try the SPI primer as Paul suggested. Need to repair a few spots as well.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#12
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Quote:
Bear |
#13
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Any updates?I'm wondering what too use as well?
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#14
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look in the Judge section for update pics
came out real nice lots of hours in what I thought was a nice bumper straight bumper those spider cracks killed me!
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#15
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Quote:
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#16
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SPI epoxy over a bare(sand blasted) bumper
block sanded until just the cracks show. Did this about 3 times with 2 coats each time last time was only to cover everything. no 2K. Repaired areas (over epoxy as per Barry at SPI). I used Lord 152 for the minor repairs but didnt use it for a crack filler. DuPont Chromabase and SPI clear
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#17
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Quote:
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#18
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#19
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Quote:
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#20
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honestly???
Endura bumpers were a total biotch even back when they were new.. My recommendation??? hand sand it back to the VERY thin flex coating over the foam.. And invest in the flexible parts primers available now for urethane products
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"Bye" "Bye" Rice Boy!!! |
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