[gto406]

Have had this car since 1991, and did a 'partial frame-off' at that time. It was back on the road in 1993 (without paint/body completed) and served as a summer cruiser and then bracket racing car. Here it was in it's former incarnation:



Subsequently, we moved houses, and the car sat in our garage. I finally began trying to wrestle a very minor intake leak, and well was so unhappy with the paint/finish, I wanted to 'start over' and make the car a nice driver - able to complete power tour, but not go overboard and look like one of those LS-motored mobiles you see on PT.com. So another body off ensued:

[gto406]

We then got the body on the body cart we constructed:

[gto406]

Work then began on the frame, cleaning it back up, welding in additional bracing/support (boxing rear sections, pinion etc.):



Finally, frame was put in primer, was painted (Dupont Nason chassis black), wrapped and placed on the ceiling of the garage so we could begin working on he body:

[gto406]

Attention turned to the body. The 'nasty' job of stripping the multiple coats of paint off of the body began:



I picked up a set of 'rev' wheels and had to see how they would look on the car so I fitted one up (in the wheel-well) just to see how they may look:

[gto406]

After stripping the body, we realized we needed new 'outer wheel houses' and quarters (the car's lower 1/4 panels on both driver/passenger were pooched). Here is a pic of the 'trial fit' of the resulting skin (I had ordered full 1/4's but the body-supply place got the order wrong and sent me skins - given they only charged me for skins I decided to keep them):

[gto406]

Took the frame down and sent it off to my mechanic to be assembled. This included installing the global-west tubular control arms, the metco rear aluminum 4-link and the PMT-fab trailing-arm braces, along with the 4-wheel disc brakes.

Once he had the frame done, I was working away on cleaning up, re-seam sealing and repainting the underside of the body (using Bill Hirsch Chassis-black paint). That being done, the car body was trailered down (on the cart) to the mechanic and is now rejoined with the frame (motor/trans also re-installed). Some further pictures:



Shot (albeit dark cause of the low-light) of the GTO with the motor/trans installed. Running a FAST ez-EFI system in the car (seems to fit nicely under the 'stock' snorkel air-cleaner):


While motor was out, I had the #62 D-Port heads ported further (thanks: potentpontiac!):

[gto406]

Car is now back in the garage, and I placed it on rolling casters this past weekend. The doors I picked up from Memory Lane (in California) are hung - with new bushings, all new body mounts are in, and the strikers on the doors installed.

Focus shifts to the fuel system. I am going to reinstall the 'stock gas tank' but install a fuel-system/return/venting system suitable for the Fast EZ-EFI. Right now, debating on the 'EZ-EFI system' or trying to build one from components (likely more $$).

[DarthBubba]

Looking good!!!

How long have you been at it this time? Coming along nicely.

[2002Z4CSS]

Coming along nice!

[gto406]

Originally Posted by DarthBubba

Looking good!!!

How long have you been at it this time? Coming along nicely.

Thanks DB, lol about 3-1/2 years (and counting)!

Alot still to do. Not sure whether to attack the quarters (first) or get the car running (with the FI on it). I know the quarters will be a bit messy (since I have to cut out the outer wheel houses (the passenger side is completely 'chewed up' with rust down in the lower regions). Might be easier to make a mess first, then carry on with getting all the fuel lines, fuel tank/pump/filter, etc mocked up.

I am still debating (on the quarters) whether to butt-weld, lap-joint weld or go the 3m panel adhesive route. One aspect I do like (with the panel adhesive) is the reduced warpage and superior rust prevention the panel adhesive provides. Downside, is the joints will likely appear in the trunk (which means I would have some work to do to cover that up - depending on how high I make the 'cut lines' - leaving room for a flange of course).

BR/Brian.

[bigborehunter]

Looks like you're well on the way to having it complete for next spring. The newer suspension will make the handling great. I didn't see any mention of steering specs but I know lots of guys swap the strg box for a Buick GN unit. Any plans along that line or have you done something different? I own a 72 GTO as well.

[Txbobcat]

I own a 72 GTO also. What color are you going to paint it?

[gto406]

Many thanks bigborehunter & txbobcat.

Would very much like to see your '72s (please include some pics in this thread, or PM them if you wish) 8^)

As for steering, I went with an AGR 'quick-ratio' steering box (I think it is 12:1) with a new rag-joint. I also replaced the stock tie-rod end couplers with the Global-West jam-nut type (won't pop off). I also installed brand-new Global-West coil-springs (1" drop in the front, 3/4" drop in the back).

Hopefully these updates will give the car a little better 'feel' in the corners. I definitely feel like the car is 'harder' (when I push down on the rear end it doesn't give like it used to - it sits almost hard as a rock and barely budges). Will be interesting to see if my frame 'bolstering' and those convertible 'trailing arm braces' make a difference - i.e. with the way the car feels/handles.

As for colour, the car was originally code 057/057 (Brasilia Gold) (see the GTO below).

I saw a Ford pickup (last year) in Hawaii painted in PPG (or HOK) Root Beer Metallic (similar to the color of this GM pickup truck in the attached picture). I will likely try to keep it less red in tint (more yellow) and try to get some shimmers or metal-flake in it - to add some depth.

Cheers,
Brian.

[bigborehunter]

Here are some pics of mine. The steering wheel has been swapped for a padded version which was correct that year. I know the car is painted resale red but that happens to be the factory colour for it. It has some nice options; console, Am FM stereo 8 track, posi, 455 V8, power discs and steering and someone added ram air induction before I got it.

[Smasher]

Very cool project! I like the efi angle. Personally I would butt-weld the quarters on. it's tricky, but the results are worth it. I really like panel-bond, and it has a ton of uses, but in your case, with the skins and size of seams you'll have, I just don't think it's the way to go. It's possible with temp. changes, etc. the seams may become visible later on. I do use the panel bond over all my welds as a bit of insurance against pinholes and such. Done many repairs like this over the years, and they hold up really well.

[gto406]

Very nice '72 bigborehunter! I like the hurst style shifter (and Hurst logo on the rear trunk-lid)!! Was that shifter original to the car?

Thanks smasher. Yes, still in a big debate over how to do it. I have the Muscle-Car video (the one that they did a few years back with the 67 Lemans). I notice they cleco the panels but they say they butt-weld them. The issue I have, is how did they do that, if the panel overlaps?

Did they tack and slowly cut the overlapping portion off (as they went, or at the end)? I think the cleco idea is the right way to do it, I am just not sure how to best lay them up, to ensure a miminal seam? Note, my skins carry right over top onto the flat portion of the rear 1/4's (not quite all the way to the trunk opening - you can see them in the pic above, showing the trunk lid horns). Would be nice to be able to completely 'hide' the seam. However, I am not sure if it will be harder to make the seam disappear (once I butt-weld it)?

[bigborehunter]

Thanks, the Hurst shifter is a 68 unit liberated from another car. Pontiac made their own version in 69 and stopped using Hurst that year. Fans disagreed and many have put their own Hurst dual gates in after the fact. This is one of those conversions. The trunk badge is available from Mr Gasket..big seller.
It's a Day Two cruiser and actually has been toned down from its factory appearance as this was a D98 sport stripe car.. big white strobe stripes across the body!!
Butt welding is indeed the way to go. Muscle Car Review has a short article covering that topic using an Olds Cutlass as an example.You do overlap the panels and cut through both at the same time. Pics show how its done. I'm sure you'll find more detailed articles and examples online. Dec 2011 issue has blue 67 GTO on cover, by the way.

[Smasher]

yup, you clamp the panels together, and cut thru both and weld as you go. However, I don't use cleco's, I just tack weld the new piece on, and cut the lip of the old panel, push them level, and butt-weld in place. work slowly, from one end to the other, and you should be fine. As far as making the seams go away, as long as the two pieces are butted together, once you grind, there shouldn't be a seam at all, inside or out. Hope this helps!!

[gto406]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the support/additional info (txbobcat - we need to see your '72 GTO - post some pics)!!

I found a 2-part article on Mopar Muscle relating to quarter skin replacement (a Mopar, but similar technique's I suppose). See the following http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...l/viewall.html

I am working on 'writing up' my own procedure (based on this article) on removing/replacing the quarter panels (one side at a time of course). I have attached a PDF with the copy (and proposed 'cut-lines').

Please have a look and let me know if you have any comments/feedback/criticims. Hopefully the finished product (procedure) may be helpful for other folks on the Forum.

Cheers,
Brian.

[DRI]

Awesome job Brian.Hope to see it and the bird at some T.O cruises. Rory