[1bad65]

Well, I had some free time yesterday and figured it was time to pull the body from the chassis of my 1965 GTO as it's been sitting for the last 6 months with the body bolts removed but we all know how that goes... I wasn’t exactly sure what was the best way to mount the body once I removed the chassis and I probably went overkill just to CMA.

Up front I have 2 milk crates with wood beams supporting under the frame mounts.
Under the main body (Mid-Section), I have 2 – 4X4 wood beams about 4’ apart running side to side supported with jack stands and wood blocks. At the rear I have my engine hoist with straps supporting the trunk/quarter section so that it doesn't sag.

Is this enough support? Should I be supporting it differently? Is it okay to lower the body a bit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Paul

[Old Goat 67]

I used concrete blocks and 4X4 beams.

Nice and solid and I could move the frame out and in without rearranging it all.

Charles

[1bad65]

Thanks Charles. I didn't have any concrete blocks handy however it's on my list of to-do's as I want to make sure it's stable and exactly where I needed it to weld in the small floor patch that's needed.

[Old Goat 67]

Yeah, I think it needs to be more steady than what those plastic crates can give you, especially if you are going to be climbing in and out. Notice that I used a come-a-long chained to a piece of angle iron underneath the rear trunk ledge to lift the rear. I'd be a bit wary of lifting the body with that strap the way you have, It could distort the quarter panel. You don't want to go there.

You can adjust the height of the blocks as you need to, but I always left the chains in place with a slight tension on them. while the frame was out.

Charles

[69 RA GTO]

Paul,

Like the others are saying, you do not want to use those plastic crates as they will give way and something/someone IS going to get hurt. You need to use cement blocks and 4 X 4's Here is another picture of my 69

Looks like a nice starting point for the restoration and good luck

[1bad65]

Thanks 69 RA GTO & Old Goat 67. I was going to pick-up some 3 Ton SUV jack stands on my way home, I figured I could use them over and over as opposed to the cement blocks. The more I think about it, the blocks do sound better. Thanks again.

[russosborne]

The bad thing about the jackstands is you can't move the frame from under the car or put it back under with them.
Use the blocks, and use 4x4s or some sort of sturdy beams that is longer than your car is wide so you can move the frame in and out without having to mess with the body.

Mine is still sitting on jackstands, I used a hoist to lift the body and then drug the frame out and then set the body on the stands. Will have to reverse that when (if ever) I am ready to put the frame back under the body.

Russ

[RedDirtRoad]

Damn!
thats a scary method you are using to remove the body from the frame.

[1bad65]

Knowing that I wouldn't sleep well tonight, I went to Home Depot after work and bought concrete blocks and some extra 8' 4x4 wood beams. I stacked the blocks wide and high enough so that I could roll the chassis under the body at any time. I placed the first 4x4 beam approximately 10 inches behind the base of the cowl and the second 4x4 beam approximately 6 inches before the start of the rear wheelwell opening. My only concern is the back end of the car, there's approximately 6' from the 2nd beam to the end of the car, do I need to support that? If so, what do you guys suggest? Any help would be appreciated, thanks for all your responses, they've been very helpful. BTW the concrete blocks were on sale for $1.35 each and the wood beams were $8.95 each. The $35 investment was well worth the peace of mind. Thanks again.

[gto406]

We built a body cart, and used two (2) engine hoists to lift the car. We built booms for both the front cowl (under the front windshield) and in the rear bumper area, and used the rear bumper brackets to attach it to the car. Wasn't going anywhere.

Some pics from the process (note: we later changed those rubber tires to hard casters as the rubbers kept losing air and sagged). The cart held the car up for two years, I was able to work underneath (and on top/inside) the car. Supported the weight of two full-size (200lb + men) stripping off the paint (plus the body).

In my opinion, either a steel rotisserie or a wooden buck (with gussets) is the only way to go. Gives you mobility (i.e. to move the body around when needed) and safety when working in/around the vehicle. I stored my frame (once done) up on my ceiling (wrapped).

Photo's:



Finished frame on the ceiling:


NOTE: Later we added additional gusset/supports (i.e. a 2x3 was run up under the length of the rockers and tied into the front/rear supports. Further, we used the body mounts and bolted down the front (and rear) to the body cart so it would not move. When I took it to my mechanic to put the car back on the 'now built' frame, he complained how much wood/screws/body-bolts he had to remove. I knew then that we had done the job right, the car never moved or went anywhere we didn't want it to.

Cheers,
Brian.

[Tempest]

Thanks for the pics and the info Brian. I think a body cart will be in my future, hopefully in 2012.

[1bad65]

Thanks gto406. Looks like you guys really went the extra mile. I believe the body is now secure and where I need it to be, the strap that's wrapped around the 1/4's is not under any load, it's stritly there to prevent the back-end from sagging until I make a brace to set under the rear. Now I need to find the time to continue while I'm motivated. Thanks again.

[gto406]

You are most welcome! The only major downside of the 'cart' (versus a full-on rotisserie) was the fact that I couldn't rotate the car (and expose the underside for paint). Working on my back, trying to use my HVLP (upside down) and also welding one minor patch panel in, was a little more difficult. However, we did manage.

The upside of our approach, we could even transport the car to be joined back up with the frame. A quick photo of the car back on it's frame (we could have used the two engine hoist method to reunite) but I didn't feel comfortable having the car 'hanging in free space) while trying to center the body mounts back on the frame. Much easier to do with a real full-on mechanics hoist.



I have the procedure (written out) on what we did, and can take more photo's of the cart if anyone needs them (no plans unfortunately). The cart really did work out great, and we just disassembled it (Boxing Day) and stored it away (for the next project). It may end up holding my buddies son's '67 Bird.

Cheers,
Brian.

[Judas]

Damn RA, your pic looked so identical to my 69 sitting on blocks/4x4's, I had to zoom in to be sure it was not the same pic.

Other then that, I am late to the party... but lifting the car with straps over the quarters is down-right scary. I used the hinge 'boxes' in the trunk as attachment points. The chains were just barely against the upper lip of the trunk opening so I wrapped them in rubber mats to help disperse the load. It appears to have worked, but don't know if I would recommend it.

[gearbanger]

This is the way I did it and it worked really well. I did it myself a couple of times but its easier with a buddy to steady the body. I took it on and off the frame 3 times and onto the rotisserie.

Under the rear seat belt mounts is a piece of 2x2 angle that is bolted to all 4 seat belt mounts. They are not strong enough to be used by them self. The front ones are really strong though as they are in a body brace.

[1bad65]

Thanks for the input everyone, your pictures & advice have been very helpful.

@ Judas, the straps wrapped around the 1/4's were not used to lift the rear of the body, I only put them on after everything was in place to prevent any sagging. Not sure I even need them but it makes me sleep better.... To lift the rear I ran a 4x4 beam in the trunk under the top of the quarters, I then proceeded to lift and block. This seems to have worked out well. @ Gearbanger, That is a very clever idea and great use of the engine hoist. BTW what kind of wheels are on your car?

On another note, what paint do you guys recommend for the chassis? A friend was telling me to use Rustoleum as it's self leveling and if it's applied with a foam brush it will look real nice when it dries. I have to say that I'm a little skeptical about that approach so any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Paul

[ho421]

Paul, you're going the extra mile to do a frame-off. I would find someone nearby to media blast the frame and its components and then finish the components with an hvlp sprayer and durable paint. If your bushings are shot, it would be a great time to replace them as well. My local media blaster had a booth on the other half of his media area and shot the frame and components for me. Total cost about 400. I provided the paint. Used PPG DP90 lead-based. Not the greatest for durability but close to what the factory shot.

By the way, going with the blocks and 4x4s works well. A PITA if you have to weld or paint underneath but gives you good access for repair work and simplifies removal/install of the chassis.

Best of luck

[1bad65]

Thanks ho421. It's in the plans to install all new bushings as well as the fuel and brake lines. The more and more I think about it, I'm going to inquire about media blasting the chassis and components, at this stage of the game, what's another couple of bucks...Wishing you all health and happiness for 2012.

Best Regards,

Paul

[gto406]

Hi Paul, same to you!

BTW, save yourself some 'cash' and go out (e.g. Harbor Freight) and pickup a media blaster and do the work yourself. Media blasting (a whole underside/frame) can easily surpass $1000 (not including priming). I did that work all myself and used the savings to have my mechanic put my frame back together (also re-assemble the rear-end). Got me back to 'on the frame' much quicker than if I did it myself.

Hope this helps!
BR/Brian.

[1bad65]

Well, after not having the time to work on the chassis of my 65, I rolled it back under the body and have it resting on the body bushings. We hope to be starting our house extension soon and I know the temporary garage will need to come down so I figured I'd better get it the car mobile and ready to move. Once the house work is done, I will focus on the car. Another 6-12 months won't hurt...