Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-26-2012, 10:06 PM
nytrainer's Avatar
nytrainer nytrainer is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,124
Default convertible frame question

Hey all,
I have two verts and maybe a third (negotiating on a 70). I had an idea although it's probably crazy I'll tell you the idea and then ask the question.
The cars are really in excellent shape but I would like to replace the top (pads, etc.) eventually (1 right away). I hate to have the cars out of commission for any length of time (even in the winter). I was thinking about the best way to restore the frame for the top. I was thinking I could take the top off exposing the frame and then clean, prime and paint the frame. Seems like a pain to do it on the car (especially 3 times for all the cars) masking interior, exterior, etc but i want to do it right.
My idea came about because a local guy is selling a complete vert frame (less hydraulics) fairly cheap (asking $300). Thought I could buy it send it out to get blasted and powdercoated. Then when I'm ready to redo the top on car #1, I would put this finished frame in Car #1 and send Car #1 off to get the top put on (I've done literally every task on a restoration but always farmed out the vert. tops. Kinda wish I could do it myself). Then I would repeat the same process (blast/powdercoat the frame I took off of car#1) and use the restored frame on Car #2 and so on until the last car which would then leave me with Car # 3's unrestored vert. frame. I could sell it as is and get close to what I payed for it when this process started.
My question is how much can the frame be broken down to make it easier for the blast/powdercoating? I didn't go look at it but can each section come apart and go back together? Are there lock nut/ eccentric pin set-ups? Am I playing with fire thinking about knocking down the frame in sections or using frames from other cars?
For those who have restored their frames how was it done.
Thanks,
Dave

__________________
1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be
1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl
  #2  
Old 02-26-2012, 11:37 PM
bigborehunter bigborehunter is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 956
Default

Top assemblies can be stripped to bare metal and the cables changed, etc. I would never swap parts from other convertible frames, that's a no no. They don't wear the same rate. Every car is different.

  #3  
Old 02-26-2012, 11:52 PM
nytrainer's Avatar
nytrainer nytrainer is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,124
Default

I wouldn't interchange any parts or sections but the idea would be to replace the whole assembly with another whole assembly fro another vehicle. Still a bad idea?

__________________
1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be
1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl
  #4  
Old 02-27-2012, 12:36 AM
bigborehunter bigborehunter is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ontario
Posts: 956
Default

I'm sure that has been done before. Others will chime in soon with comments and exp. Oddly enough I was watching Overhaulin with Chip Foose on Lance Armstrong's 1970 GTO ragtop and I could've sworn they used a whole other frame assembly. Of course, when you have that many guys working flat out, a whole frame could be reconditioned I suppose!

  #5  
Old 02-27-2012, 07:12 PM
69Customs's Avatar
69Customs 69Customs is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,228
Default

When I redid mine you can break it down into the two side frames, then the bows can be removed. Do not take apart any of the side frames or their adjustment screws as you will have to readjust everything. The top cover and all can be removed completely off the car as an assembly. I believe its just 4 bolts in the back. Its a little tricky.
Also note that not all a-bodies are close enough that the tops are adjusted individually for each car. They may not interchange without shims or readjustment.
Tops really not that hard to do yourself.
Good Luck.

__________________
  #6  
Old 02-28-2012, 12:49 PM
rohrt rohrt is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 4,196
Default

I might suggest that if you remove the frame that you use spray paint to mark the locations of where everything was bolted in the back. There is a lot of adjuments back there.

I removed my convert frame from my bird and replaced one side that was broke. I painted mine. I have found it nearly impossible to adjust it perfectly to get the windows to seal.

I think your idea is a good one for the powder coat but there are spots that get covered up when the arm is out or retracted.

  #7  
Old 02-28-2012, 01:02 PM
nytrainer's Avatar
nytrainer nytrainer is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,124
Default

Great point there. I was thinking that I would drill 2 - 1/8" locating holes in each mount (with the three bolts). I've done similar locating holes when removing doors.
Thanks
Dave

__________________
1968 LeMans conv. 350 HO - 4 speed triple white (hear it idle here) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVmq...ature=youtu.be
1968 LeMans conv. 350 - 4 speed Solar red/pearl
  #8  
Old 02-28-2012, 01:49 PM
'ol Pinion head 'ol Pinion head is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: INJUN Territory, Red State Merica!
Posts: 9,878
Default

If you're pulling the entire top frame off, i'd take a measurement on the rear bow height to the rear stainless trim or to the trunk opening. About 20 years ago, had a customer that we had her GTO in a local over fifty years in business convert top/trim shop. Supposed to be the best in town.

This shop called the customer (& me) & was trying to say the new top (Electron from PY)was not long enough in the front. They had taken the top frame asm off (why I don't know) & upon reinstallation had the rear bow down too low. It was obvious to a GTO convert owner, but not to the "exspurt" installers. I got a rep on the phone from Electron & they gave me the right bow height measurement. I was fairly shocked this long time shop had F'ed up the install, until I talked to my customer more & she stated they kept pushing her towards a Robbins brand convert top that they normally bought at wholesale & marked up. In the end, it was all about them gigging a novice woman for more money. I never signed off on that shop to do another convert top install. Found another shop that was less than 10 miles away. did a better job, made their own tack strips, would take roller projects, could get the car out in an afternoon, & charged a lot less for installation.

__________________
Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms.
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:07 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017